Hangzhou:A City Made for Ro mance

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hangzhou is known as one of the most romantic cities in China for its West Lake. Covering an area of six square kilometers, its enchanting scenery changes aspects dramatically depending on the season, weather conditions and time of day, and its peaceful shores have inspired countless scholars and men of letters to pen their impressions in prose and verse. Some even settled there.

The lake is also the setting for a number of moving love stories, which have spread far and wide. One of them tells of the love between Su Xiaoxiao, a well-known courtesan, and a young nobleman in a Chinese version of the French play Camille. Su Xiaoxiao was beautiful and talented. Once, on a tour of scenic spots, she met a handsome young man and they fell in love at first sight. Not long after, the man returned home and never came back, and the beautiful girl died heartbroken at the age of 19. To this day, there is a stone marker commemorating Su Xiaoxiao on the Bai Causeway of West Lake.

Another legend tells of the love between the spirit of the White Snake and a scholar named Xu Xian, and how the Buddhist monk Fahai sabotaged their love. They underwent countless hardships, and finally the White Snake was subdued and imprisoned beneath the Leifeng Pagoda. The Broken Bridge is said to be the place the two lovers first met, and it continues to draw lovers from around the world. When night falls, it becomes a lovers’ paradise, with gentle breezes wafting in off the water, and night creatures serenading strolling couples.

Hangzhou is located 200 kilometers southwest of Shanghai and is the capital of Zhejiang Province, one of the seven ancient capitals of China. It first became famous for the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, dug in the Sui Dynasty (581-618). Completed in 610, the canal was used primarily to transport rice and cereals north. As an important navigation hub and collection and distribution center, Hangzhou developed rapidly, reaching its zenith in the Song Dynasty.

In 1127, the Song Dynasty capital moved from Kaifeng, Henan Province, to Hangzhou. During the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), Hangzhou became the political, economic and cultural center of China. The city’s population exploded, and its economy and culture also developed rapidly. Its silk, papermaking and ceramic-making industries developed exponentially, and the remains of the imperial palace and official kilns can still be seen today.

Hangzhou’s cuisine is also famous nationwide, and sampling some Hangzhou dishes is a must for tourists. Traditional Hangzhou cuisine is characterized by its original light flavors, attractive presentation and refined cooking methods to complement Hangzhou’s gentle scenery. More than 40 dishes arelocal specialties, including West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce, Beggar’s Spring Chicken, Stewed Fish Head with Tofu, Dongpo Pork, Stir-fried Prawn with Dragon Well Tea Leaves, West Lake Water Shield Soup, Fried Beancurd Rolls Stuffed with Minced Tenderloin, and Mandarin Fish Soup.

Five dishes are an absolute must. Dongpo Pork, named after the great Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo, is fatty, but not greasy, while West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce is sweet and sour, and very palatable. There is a legend behind the dish called Stir-fried Prawn with Dragon Well Tea Leaves. In the Qing Dynasty, when Emperor Qianlong was touring southern China, his chef, while cooking prawns, mistakenly added Dragon Well Tea leaves into the cooking pan. The result was a happy surprise, and the emperor’s appreciation of the dish made it famous. Beggar’s Spring Chicken is tender, with a fragrance of lotus leaves. Mandarin Fish Soup is slightly sweet and sour.

To sample these dishes, tourists are advised to go to time-honored restaurants, such as Louwailou Restaurant on the northern bank of West Lake. Zhiweiguan Restaurant is famous for its snacks, such as steamed stuffed buns served in small steamers, wonton, pasta shells, and paired pastries. They are delicious and inexpensive. During busy hours, the dining hall is always packed to capacity.