从符号学视角看中国的男青年服装时尚变迁
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摘要:几个世纪以来,女性的服装时尚的变化得到很大关注,相对而言,研究男青年的时尚服装却很少。本文着重从符号学的角度看男性青少年服装时尚的变化,试图寻找这些服装标志的基本含义。
Abstract: For centuries, much attention is paid to the changes of female's clothing fashion, comparatively speaking, study concerning with male youth's clothing fashion is little. This paper focuses on seeing the changes of male youth's clothing fashion in China from semiotics perspective and tries to look for the underlying meaning from those clothing signs.
关键词:符号学;时装;男青年
Key words: semiotics; clothing fashion; male youth
中图分类号:G05文献标识码:A文章编号:1006-4311(2010)24-0184-02
1Intrduction
When you walk in the street, a person who wears pink clothes appears before your eye, you may doubt whether the person is a boy, for you judge the one should be male from the conduct but female from the clothes. Actually, it is the occasion we often encounter now. Nowadays in China, a large number of male youth tend to favor colors like pink, yellow, green and red which are regarded as girls' privilege and they'd like to wear neutral clothes as those boys in "Happy Boy" do. Some boys even wear earrings, necklace or some other ornaments. Those kinds of boys who wear long hair are not novel any more. Those changes attract our attention and consideration. What dose it indicate? What dose it signify from semiotics perspective?
2Clothing Fashion as a Sign System
For centuries individuals or societies have used clothes and other body adornments as a form of nonverbal communication to indicate occupation, rank, gender, sexual availability, locality, class, wealth and group affiliation.
Clothing fashion restricted by cultural tradition develops with the development of economy, politics and science and technology, meanwhile, exerts an imperceptible influence on people's world values and aesthetic views, even formalizes culture and economic industries of that society. Contemporary clothing is following the developing step of the society, leading the popular trend of the era, catching up with the enormous changes of international society and signifies multi-values and aesthetic views of modern world. People have sensed sensitively some social meaning from this kind of sign.
Likewise, some meaning has been sensed from the changes of male youth's clothing fashion in China.
3Analysis of the Changes of Male Youth's Clothing Fashion from Semiotics Perspective
3.1 Revolting against tradition and inequality
How we perceive the beauty or ugliness of our bodies is dependant on cultural attitudes to physiognomy. The accepted beautiful female form that Rubens painted is subliminally undesirable nowadays, if we are able to be thought beautiful in a way that the majority accepts in the 21st century. Likewise, the colors and adornments which belong to girls possession in traditional vie will be considered to be appropriate as well to boys, at least boys think so. For centuries, boys are surrounded with colors like gey ,dark ,dark blue and some other dark colors, while their peers ,girls, share the bright colors and the brightness and joy that those colors bring. A sense of inequality and imbalance they have. Boys wearing dress are seen as abnormal and hard to be accepted. The conduct that Zhang Guorong wore dress on his concert is accused severely by the mass. Not long go, Huang Qiusheng wore dress on his "Having appointment with Lu Yu". He giving a show on the stage aroused laugh from audience, and he himself also laughed. It illustrates huang's revolting against tradition, but on the other hand, it indicates people unapproved of this kind of clothing fashion for men. With so much inequality pointing to boys, they naturally wish to break traditional rules to express their dissatisfaction and send out their counter-culture message by pursuing counter-traditional clothing and adornments.
In addition, emancipation activities of women have existed for a long time and have achieved great success. In particular, emancipation of women and the contribution of all classes of women to the 1914-1918 war enabled and encouraged women to adopt more practical clothing and to try out new styles in fashion, hair and beauty. However, when we criticize gender inequality and discrimination angrily all over the world, the scale seems to incline a little. Less cry can be heard from men to ask the equality of the two sexes compared with that of women. In order to attract the attention of the mass and resist this kind of inequality, boys wear bravely and openly.
3.2 Following fashion, seeking a sense of belonging and identity
Fashion can be defined as the prevailing style or custom of dress, a cultural code that sets the clothing style standards according to age, gender, and class. They provide mental clues to a person's status and occupational role. People are so aware that others make judgments about them through their clothes and accessories that many run up huge debts to appear to belong to a particular lifestyle. Frequently the rest of their role-set are doing likewise. Members of the role-set often encourage them.
Young people in particular adopt the uniform of their peer group. However the uniform must be the peer group's uniform, not one imposed on them by adults. Fashion in the form of a mass youth uniform can create a sense of belonging to the peer group and a feeling of identity as the adolescent personality reaches maturation.
The teenager's view of the world is strongly influenced by the attitudes and behavioral standards of the peer group. The clique provides a meaningful social context within which adolescence can bond with their peers, seek protection, and gain self-assurance. Clothing style is essential to the teenagers' sense of self-a sure sign that he or she has become socially conscious and thus intensely sensitive to what others think of him or her. The peer group serves as a kind of asylum from the psychological burdens associated with this form of consciousness, allowing the adolescent an opportunity to blend in with others through conformity in dress codes.
For the majority, an old status symbol, be it a brand, logo or attitude accessory is old-fashioned the moment is loses favor within the group. An up to date status symbol cries out to some "I must have it now." The mobile phone as a belt accessory was a perfect example of this. As new products develop, By being the latest in a line of personal wear gadgets it gives unspoken signage about a person of the latest style statement and therefore again by association some deeper meaning about of that person. It is essential to have the latest fashion accessory, to gain instant peer approval.
4Conclusion
Nowadays,how we perceive our persona and what we want to say to society in a very visual camera obsessed culture, is still expressed through our bodies, the way we wear clothes, jewelers and body art.
Presently in China, boys' clothing fashion signifies that they want to attract the attention of the mass and the society; they expect to become focus of this era.
Reference:
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[3]王玮.浅谈服饰文化[J].中国轻工教育,2002(2).