“盘子戏法”:挑动你的味蕾

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The Chinese know, perhaps better than anyone

else, how to eat. I’m not talking here about their 2)exquisite 3)haute cuisine, or their ancient tradition of 4)gastronomy. I’m talking about the ability of ordinary Chinese home cooks to transform humble and largely vegetarian ingredients into wonderful delicacies, and to eat in a way that not only delights the senses, but also makes sense in terms of health, economy and the environment.

Not long ago I was invited to lunch in a farmhouse near Hangzhou, in eastern China. In the dining-room, the grandmother of the household, Mao Cailian, had laid out a selection of dishes on a tall, square table. There were whole salted duck eggs, 5)hard-boiled and served in their shells, fresh 6)green soy beans 7)stir-fried with preserved 8)mustard greens, chunks of 9)winter melon 10)braised in soy sauce, potato 11)slivers with 12)spring onion,

人或许最谙其道。我在这里谈论的并不是他们那精美的高级烹饪，或是他们古老而传统的烹饪法，而是中国普通家庭烹饪的魅力——能把大量朴实无华且以素食为主的原料变成美味佳肴，令人吃起来不仅能获得各种感官上的愉悦满足，还很健康、实惠和环保。

不久前，我受邀到中国东部城市杭州附近的一户农家吃午饭。饭厅里，这户人家的祖母毛采莲（音译）在一张长长的方桌上摆出了一顿丰盛的菜肴：水煮的带壳咸鸭蛋、新鲜毛豆炒咸菜、酱油焖冬瓜、葱拌土豆丝、

过去，物质的匮乏限制了中国人食用肉类，不过，由于中国人向来秉承“民以食为天”的理念，少吃肉这一简朴习惯促使厨师们逐渐擅于用大量素食原料烹制出美味佳肴。在中国人的家庭烹饪中，少量的肉类通常被切成小块，让肉味融入整锅菜中；而那些生晒和发酵食物如黄豆酱、豆豉和盐渍或者泡渍的蔬菜——被我奉为神奇原料的调味料——为素食菜肴带来了与浓郁肉味几乎相同的香味。

中国的烹饪术在西方人的眼中素来显得复杂吓人。宴会菜式的烹饪过程确实既复杂又耗时，但是家庭烹饪则通常简单易懂。在你的橱柜里储存一些基本的中国调味品，你便可以借助这些看似很零碎的瓶瓶罐罐做出一顿美味佳肴。不久前，一时冲动之下，我邀请了一位朋友到家里吃晚饭，在缺少原料的情况下，我不得不像变戏法似的弄出一桌饭菜。我用半个卷心菜炒虾米，加上之前吃剩的菠菜和豆腐乳；用先前放在冰箱里的少量猪肉做了一道回锅肉，蒸了一些米饭。烹饪时加入少量不同的调味料，可以让原本分量不多的食物看起来分外吸引人且风味十足。

Chinese home cooking is not about a rigid set of recipes, but an approach to cooking and eating that can be adapted to almost any place or circumstance. I regularly use Chinese methods to cook 35)produce I’ve bought in my local shops and farmers’ markets. I have given purple-sprouting 36)broccoli the Cantonese 37)sizzling oil treatment, slow-cooked English rarebreed pork in the Hangzhou manner with soy sauce, sugar and Shaoxing wine, steamed 38)Jerusalem artichokes with Hunanese fermented black beans and chili, and prepared 39)mackerel I caught on holiday in Scotland with soy sauce and ginger—all to splendid effect. Sesame oil, soy sauce and ginger may already be on your shopping list, and mainstream supermarkets are now stocking Chinese brown rice vinegar and cooking wine; just add Sichuanese chili bean paste and fermented black beans and you will open up whole new dimensions of taste.

中国的家庭烹饪并不讲究遵循严格的菜谱，而是一种可以应几乎任何地方或环境而调适改变的烹煮饮食方式。我经常运用中国人的方法去烹制我从当地商店和菜市场买回来的农产品。我像广东人一样烹制油灼紫椰菜，借鉴杭州人的做法——加入黄豆酱、糖和绍兴老酒焖煮英国稀有品种的猪肉，用湖南的豆豉和红辣椒来蒸洋姜，用黄豆酱和生姜来烹制我在苏格兰度假时捕获的马鲛鱼——做出来味道都棒极了！芝麻油、黄豆酱和生姜或许早被你列入了购物清单，一些主流超市正将中国的陈醋和料酒摆上货架；仅仅是加点四川豆瓣辣椒酱和豆豉，你就能打开整个味蕾的新维度。