第三站 呵叻――泰东北菜

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自成一派的清新

泰国东北部为高低起伏的高原，一直延伸到湄公河，与老挝为邻。这一地区对一般人而言或许比较陌生，最为熟悉的就算是呵叻，这里有许多历史遗迹及独特的文化和饮食。

泰东北菜是食客接触比较少的菜品，因为地理位置的原因，本身泰东北菜也算是自成体系，与其他三菜系差距颇大，是浓郁菜系中的一股小清新。泰国东北部大部分地区属于山区，独特的地理结构影响了这里的饮食习惯。泰东北人最喜欢吃生的东西，比如青木瓜沙拉、生肉沙拉、LAP（即辣猪肉沙拉或鸡肉沙拉）等都是泰东北人的日常美食。

走在街头，总能见到许多路边摊贩售卖青木瓜沙拉。作为泰国代表菜之一，青木瓜沙拉体现出泰国菜的一大特色――水果入菜。青木瓜其实是木瓜成熟变黄之前的状态，此时味道有点苦涩，果浆味也比较浓，沙拉汁由酸角、鱼露、香茅、南姜、辣椒、椰糖混合而成，搅拌木瓜丝也不能用筷子或叉子，而是用一种大个铁舂，边舂边入味。街头摊贩售卖的青木瓜沙拉，有股子市井气，将冰冻的海蟹切成碎块，拌以青木瓜丝，淋上鱼露，异常生猛。而高档食肆中则改良了不少，会添加国人喜爱的虾仁、花生等，味道也平近了许多。

另外，与泰北人一样，泰东北人也喜欢糯米饭，经常会做甜口味的糯米饭再配上主菜一起吃。在泰东北地区，很多街边小店都会贩卖现场制作的糯米饭配水果等，自带甜味的糯米饭和甜甜的水果一起吃很爽口。同时，泰东北也经常会采用比较怪的食材，例如各种昆虫，而mang dah（类似炸蟑螂）更是东北部的地道名菜。在国内这些极为本土的菜色虽然没有机会吃到，但泰国餐馆中常见的烤鸡却也是泰东北菜另一主打，粗犷的口感与清香的滋味，用香兰叶包裹烤制的鸡肉，入口带有淡淡清香，可以让食客浅浅地体会到泰东北菜的精华。

Of Its Own Kind

The Northeast plateau spans from the Mekong River on the Thailand/Laos border to the mountain range along the Thailand/Cambodia boarder. The region might not be so familiar to many with the exception for Khorat， but it is a prime tourism destination with historical sites and a unique culture， including culinary culture.

Due to its geographical locaton， Northeast Thai cuisine is less known to the outside world and is very different from the cuisines of the other three regions. Influenced by its mountainous terrian， local Thai people prefer raw dishes， such as papaya salad， raw meat salad， and LAP salad （spicy pork or chicken salad） in their everyday diet.

Green papaya salad is the most popular street food in the northeast. As a typical Thai food， green papay salad is another representative of the main ingredient of Thai cuisine―fuit. Green papaya is a little more astrigent and pulpy than mature papaya. Its dressing is a mixture of tamarind， fish sauce， lemon grass， galangal， pepper and coconut sugar. The shreded papaya will then be mixed with a pestle to pound the flavor into the fruit. On street stands， the salad is served with iced crab chunks and a fish sauce dressing， whereas in upscale restaurants， it is served with shrimps and peanuts.

Like in the north， northeast Thai people love to accompany main dish with sweet sticky rice. Many street side shops sell ready made sticky rice served with fruit. You may also find some unsual food materials in this region， such as various insects， represented by the signature fried mang dah （cockroach）， which are not often seen in other regions. The other signature dish， roasted chicken wrapped in pandan leaf， however， could be found across Thailand where gourmets could taste the wild yet refreshing northeast cuisine.