特拉斯提弗列: 魅力与变化同在

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Trastevere is one of Rome’s most ancient neighborhoods. Founded during the reign of Emperor Augustus， its name means， literally， “across the 1）Tiber.” But more than a river separates the people of Trastevere from the rest of the city. Trasteverini have always been proud of their origins， believing themselves to be the only true Romans， or “Romans of Rome.”

In the Middle Ages the neighborhood became a center for working-class fishermen and 2）artisans. Even though the Vatican owns a lot of property here， and even with the monasteries and 3）convents hidden behind high walls， it still has that spirit of a Medieval port town.

Whether to enjoy home cooking， get lost in winding alleys， or just escape the chaos of central Rome， visitors have always come here in search of the authentic Italy. Now， in increasing numbers， the visitors are moving in， driving up housing prices and 4）displacing many old-time residents. Some people fear that recent developments have changed the neighborhood for the worse.

Giancarlo Biso has been serving clients at this caféfor 35 years. His old customers are disappearing， and they’re taking the spirit of the place along with them. Biso： （via translator） This bar is more than 70 years old. In the old days people would buy milk here and carry it home in tin buckets. Women used to come down in their nightgowns to have breakfast. Today it has become a modern bar like the rest.

But not everyone is so negative about the change. Giovanni Emeli has been selling newspapers on 5）Piazza Santa Maria for the past 18 years. From his booth he has witnessed the restoration of 6）the church， the cleaning of the neighborhood and a big increase in business.

Emeli： （via translator） I would say Trastevere has changed for the better. Before， it was a lot more unstable. There was crime， poverty and unruliness. Today the type of community has changed. The neighborhood is safe， but it still keeps its characteristic charm.

Many people say it is its very charm that has led to Trastevere’s transformation.

The glory of Rome lies in its ability to 7）retain layer upon layer of history， even as the present creates an entirely new city. Trastevere’s ancient ruins， Medieval alleys， Renaissance churches and 8）Baroque palaces are all part of that timeless process.

特拉斯提弗列是罗马最古老的地区之一，建立于奥古斯都大帝统治时期。“特拉斯提弗列”字面上的意思是“台伯河对岸”，但将此区的居民和罗马其他地区分隔开来的可不只是一条河流。特拉斯提弗列的人们一直都很为自己的出身感到骄傲，认为他们是惟一的真正罗马人，或者说是“罗马人中的罗马人”。

在中世纪，这个地区成为了手工业阶层的渔民和工匠们的中心。虽然这里的很多地产都归梵蒂冈政府所有，寺院和修道院也都被高墙所遮盖，但这里依然散发着中世纪港市的独特韵味。

想领略真正意大利风情的游客们都会来到特拉斯提弗列，为的是一尝这里的家常菜，或者体验一下迷失在蜿蜒巷陌中的感觉，又或者，仅为逃离一会儿罗马中心市区的喧嚣。如今，越来越多的观光者搬到了这里，令这一区的房价不断上涨，许多原先的居民也陆续离开。一些人担心特拉斯提弗列近年来的发展让此区变得不如以前了。

詹卡洛・比索已经在这间小餐馆为顾客服务35年了。他的老顾客们越来越少，随之减少的还有他们赋予这家店的韵味。比索：（通过翻译）这间酒吧已经经营了超过70年。过去，人们会来这里买牛奶，用锡桶装着拎回家，女人们常常穿着睡衣就下来这里吃早餐。如今这里已经变成了一间现代化的酒吧，跟别的酒吧没什么分别。

但也不是所有人都对特拉斯提弗列的变化持否定态度。乔瓦尼・伊米利在圣母广场卖报纸已有18年。从他的小报亭里，他目睹了圣母教堂被修复，整个地区变得清洁起来，商业活动也大大增多。

伊米利：（通过翻译）我认为特拉斯提弗列变好了。以前这一区很不安定，充斥着犯罪、贫困和混乱。现在这个社区变了样，整个区变得安全了，但依然保持着它特有的魅力。

很多人说，特拉斯提弗列的变化正是因为它的魅力。

罗马的壮丽就在于，即使当今的时代已经把它塑造成了一座全新的城市，它还是能够保留下层层的历史积淀。在变化中留存，这是一个永恒的过程，而特拉斯提弗列那些古老的遗迹、中世纪的大街小巷、文艺复兴时期的教堂和巴洛克式的宫殿都处于这个永恒的过程之中。翻译：Papaya

特拉斯提弗列的街巷

弯曲、狭窄、迷宫般的街巷是特拉斯提弗列的一大特色。街巷两边陈列着古色古香的建筑物，徜徉其间，时光仿佛一下子倒流回几个世纪之前。其实，早在中世纪时，这里的街道就已经是这个模样了。而且当时建筑物临街的外墙上还建有一些构筑物，因此马车等交通工具的通行非常不便。到了15世纪末，这些外墙上的构筑物被拆除了，但那迷宫一样曲折蜿蜒的细街窄巷却保留了下来。在那之前，这些街巷的路面仍然是没有铺好的，直到教皇西克斯特四世上任才下令铺路。一开始，铺路使用的是砖块，后来发现砖块不利于马车的行走，于是又换成了卵石，一直保留至今。虽然在这些曲折细窄的街巷中行走极容易迷路，而且自行车和机动车的通行也颇为不便，但人们却对这些街巷情有独钟，甚至有游客去特拉斯提弗列只为“get lost in winding alleys”。