西爪哇的狂欢序曲
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爪哇岛作为印尼第一大主岛当之无愧为最具人文气息的地域。在西爪哇岛，从首府万隆开始，与温泉同乐，耳听竹节碰撞般清脆的昂格隆音乐，再到首都雅加达一睹老城的丰厚和慈悲，旅行的欢愉似乎就藏匿于浓墨重彩的景色中，古老的广场上以及当地人深邃的眼眸里。发现印尼，应该从西爪哇岛开始。
Java dominates Indonesia politically， economically and culturally. On West Java，"Angklung" bamboo orchestra as well as the classical Sundanese gamelan and dances echoes the passage from provincial capital of Bandung to nation’s capital Jakarta. Humanity and vicissitudes of Old Jakarta， along with delight of travel are hidden in the splendid scenes， ancient squares and discerning looks of the local residents. Discover Indonesia should begin in West Java.
BANDUNG，THE FAIRY KINGDOM
Bandung meaning "the fairy kingdom" derives from its hilly volcanic terrain. To Indonesians， the city gained fame in 1955 as the venue for the first AfroAsian Conference. Nowadays， the streets of Bandung still pulse with the charm of multiethnic cultures， as unspoiled natural landscape and concrete jungle of modern urban scene form the conflicted beauty. The city like smoldering volcanoes is both unique and mystifying.
FOR A SENSIBLE TRIP
The trip began at wee hours of the morning. At 6：30 am， as sun was just breaking the darkness in Beijing， we headed to SoekarnoHatta International Airport （CGK）， seven and half hour flight crossing one time zone. We gained one hour daylight when landing in Jakarta. Indonesia doesn’t have alternations of four seasons， with only wet and dry seasons. Summer is the carefree time， and for new arrivals still in harsh winter a few hours earlier， the exotic aura started to sink in.
The first stop was Bandung. Tol Cikampek expressway connecting Bandung and Jakarta was built in commemoration of 50th anniversary of Bandung Conference. Heading west， flat and wide thoroughfares and modern buildings gradually gave way to verdant vegetation， as we left city center behind. Tropical region began exhibiting its abundance， with palm trees， coconut trees and frangipani trees occupying your vision. Many plants faded away before you could call their names， but another wonder was just around the corner.
SOAKING IN SARI ATER HOT SPRING RESORT
Sari Ater Hot Spring Resort lies in the middle of spreading clove and tea plantation， Subang， some distance from Bandung. It’s getting late when I arrived at Sari Ater； it’s not as brightly lit as urban center， but indulging in another kind of excitement. Walking uphill along the slab stone path from the entrance， tourists’ laughing intermingled with waterfall thunders. The hot spring that comes from Tangkuban perahu’s cauldron forms natural hot spring pool at the lower and flatter terrain. We dropped off shoes jumping into the open-air hot spring pools， to seek fun of being soaked from head to toe.
Indonesia has another type of coffee， the most expensive one in the world， Kopi Luwak or civet coffee. Kopi is the Indonesian word for coffee. Luwak is a local name of the Asian Palm Civet in Sumatra. Palm civets are primarily frugivorous， feeding on berries and pulpy fruits； then in the digestive tract， fermentation occurs. The natives collected these luwaks’ coffee seed droppings， then cleaned， roasted and ground them to make their own coffee beverage. It is less acid， and because of its rarity and unusual process， the civet coffee fetches high price at a few hundred dollars per pound. The traditional method of collecting feces from wild civets has given way to intensive farming methods in which solitary civets in battery cage systems are force fed the coffee beans. This method of production has raised ethical concerns.
BRAGA STREET IN OBSERVATION OF TIME
Braga Street （official name in Indonesian： Jalan Braga） retains architectural style of Dutch Indies， as taverns， coffeehouses， hotels and galleries make up most of the storefronts. In the morning， balmy sunshine Braga Street projected a golden shine to assorted store signs and plaques. On the sidewalks， food peddlers were pitching local snacks on the cart， while sloppy locals chatted with store clerks， without business urgency.
Braga Parmai is the one of legendary restaurants on Braga Street that opened during Dutch Indies period. Tulip pattern on the glass sliding door， wood-paneled floor leads to the second floor， where Dutch people used to lodge. Further ahead， stands Sumber Hidangan， old antique bread shop & restaurant serving original Dutch style breads & cookies. The number“1929”， birth year sign on the glass window， is enough to slow down passersby； everything here is vintage， unadorned old-fashion glass cabinet with aluminum-plated border， somewhat murky from oxidation. Square four-seat tables scattered in the room， as the high ceiling accentuates its loneliness and idleness.
IN VIEW OF BILLOWING VOLCANO SPECTACLE
Indonesia is a country active in volcanic activities， as over 400 volcanoes scatter around the country. Java has its fair share of over 100 volcanoes， and 30 of them remain active. Tangkuban perahu is an active volcano， situated 30 km north of the city of Bandung， and it’s the only crater in Indonesia that you can drive up to its very rim. Car making its way through bending mountain road climbed to altitude of 2，200 meters cutting through dense clouds. Mount Tangkuban Perahu has a distinctive shape， and looks like an “overturned boat” in brown color. The huge crater is an astonishing view. Here you were greeted by sulfur fumes which the crater continues to emit although the volcano is not active， as muddy-like lava filled up crater pit as if in the process of eruption.
CIWIDEY， STORY OF TEA PLANTATION AND CRATER LAKE
In the constantly changing sceneries of Bandung， Ciwidey is a thick splash. A small town over 30km from Bandung， Ciwidey is famed for fertile land， green tea plantation and Kawah Puti， or White Crater by the locals. Tourists often rent their own cars at Bandung， and it takes two and half hours from downtown Bandung.
ASIAN AFRICAN CONFERENCE MUSEUM
The historic first Asian African Conference with profound legacy has the root in the mistaken concept held by people that Bandung is a place steeped in politics. However， the Bandung Conference placed the hosting city under global spotlight， hence the birth of Bandung Spirit. The Asian-African Museum is located at Jalan Asia Afrika in Bandung， a creamy white three-story building. The idea of establishing a Museum of the AsianAfrican Conference at Gedung Merdeka was delivered in the meeting of the Committee for the Commemoration of the 25th Anniversary of the Asian-African Conference in 1980.
LOST IN THE MAGIC STREET BLOCK
Bandung not only boasts natural beauty but well-designed indoor theme park， the world full of magic. Integrated Trans Studio Bandung Complex， the biggest shopping complex in Bandung， incorporates theme parks， shopping mall and upscale hotel， offering 20 exciting rides and entertainment with the famous Broadway style. From far distance， you were struck by the fastest roller coaster in the world at Trans Studio with sensational backward movement maneuver. Trans Studio Bandung Theme Park is divided into three parts： Studio Central， the Famous Hollywood is right in front of you and you can find theme shops selling souvenirs of favorite stars； Lost City， you will experience an amazing trip and prepare for the thrilling adventure； Magic Corner， reveals the veil of mystery and fulfill your curiosity in the world of magic， as you will observe the formation of thunder and lightning， transmission of sound wave and application of gravity. An exciting island you won’t forget.
JAKARTA， BIG DURIAN， A CITY WE LEARN TO LOVE
As a capital city with rich history， Jakarta faces dilemma in the blending of tradition and modernity. The imprints of history have gradually fading in line with the development of the times， as the relentless process results in imbalance and unevenness. Therefore， when you are in the midst of Jakarta’s traffic congestion， it becomes very difficult for you to love this place. However， you will start understanding， forgiving and attaching hope for its future， when you realize that over 17 million inhabitants who have converged here are coping with same problems.
IN TOUCH WITH THE SOUL OF JAKARTA
Old town is the soul of a city. For Jakarta with a modern administrative center on golden triangle， its old town Kota also known as Old Jakarta， once a center of commerce for the whole continent due to its strategic location and abundant resources， has gained more nostalgia. Fatahillah Square is a 1.8 acre paved open space that used to be the social and political center of the Dutch empire in the East Indies. The Stadthuis to its south used to be the headquarters of the Dutch East India Company and the Dutch colonial government. Across the square from the Batavia Caféstands the Jakarta History Museum， housing documents dating back to pre-colonial times， and weapons from European and Indonesian powers alike. Once the Museum closed at dusk， local street artists would take over the space， staging customs performance. For instance， a barrel clown in folk costume， who in semicrouching position held a wooden barrel on his back； his companion， a symbol of justice， swung violently lash flogging the barrel and ground as punishment. It lacked aesthetic beauty， but it lauded justice in an original fashion.
MELTING POT OF FOOD
Jakarta has a vast range of food available at hundreds of eating complexes located all over the city， from modest street-side foodstalls and traveling vendors to the high-class expensive restaurants. However， authentic Indonesian dishes are still most appealing. Some popular dishes that originated in Indonesia are now common across much of Southeast Asia. Like the splendid natural landscapes of Indonesia， spices mixture or seasoning become the integral part of Indonesian cuisine.
BEAUTIFUL INDONESIA MINIATURE PARK
Located in southern suburb of Jakarta， Taman Mini with its diverse style architecture cluster steals the attention of anyone passing by. It perhaps will arouse your sigh of wonder when standing in front of Taman Mini Indonesia Indah， “it’s serious indeed.”
A BATIK CLASS
It would be impossible to visit or live in Indonesia and not be exposed to one of the country’s most highly developed art forms， batik. Different regions of Indonesia have their own unique batik patterns that normally take themes from everyday lives， incorporating patterns such as flowers， nature， animals， folklore or people. However， on our trip， we only saw batik clothing at street-side shops； only until we took a batik class at a batik textiles museum did we gain insight into design and production of batik.
Sindang Reret Ciwidey
Ciwidey景区内的餐厅，可在室外用餐，棕糖姜茶很有特色，糖用辣椒炒制过，炸时蔬也很好吃。
JL.raya Provinisi Ciwidey，Kab，Bandung
+62-22-2786500
LOST IN THE MAGIC STREET BLOCK
迷失梦幻街区
万隆不仅有赏不完的自然美景，也有精心设计和修建的豪华娱乐区。Integrated Trans Studio Bandung Complex是万隆最大的商业区，集成了主题娱乐园、shopping mall与奢华酒店。从远处看最抢眼的标志要属Trans Studio主题公园的过山车，其他娱乐设施都分布在室内的两层里。Trans Studio有三个主要区域：Studio Central，影院在这个区域，也可以找到经典的好莱坞人物形象的主题商铺；Lost City设计如迷宫一般，可以发现很多有趣又刺激的娱乐项目；Magic Corner是一个娱乐和学习都兼顾的乐园，在化学教室和物理广角里，可以亲自参与到雷电的形成、声波的传递，重力的应用等，有挖掘不完的奥秘，不少成年人也在探索的乐趣里流连忘返。
紧邻室内主题娱乐公园的是The Trans奢华酒店，酒店的轮廓呈半圆，酒店近300间客房提供着24小时服务并有私人接待，宽大的落地窗可饱览万隆市区，而客房内所有床上用品均为埃及棉，枕头内部的填充物只选用鹅颈部最柔软的羽毛，可谓在细节上把奢华做到极致。
JAKARTA， BIG DURIAN， A CITY WE LEARN TO LOVE雅加达 双面椰城一样多彩
雅加达作为一个历史丰厚的首都城市在传统与现代的交融里发展得有一点尴尬，丰厚的历史印记不得不在顺应时代的发展中片片剥离，猛烈的过程必将导致平衡上的一些残缺，所以当置身于拥堵的市中心时你很难爱上这样一个城市，然而，当你得知一千七百万人聚集在此与你面对共同的问题时，你开始理解，开始原谅，也开始对它的未来产生希冀。
IN TOUCH WITH THE SOUL OF JAKARTA
贴近雅加达的灵魂
老城区是一个城市的灵魂，对于雅加达这样一个拥有千年历史的古城来说，以黄金三角带为主新城区已十分现代化，由此老城区也愈发受人眷恋。法塔希拉广场（Fatahillah）是古时的重要地标，如今更显著的是荷兰建筑遗风，殖民时期的荷属东印度公司总部就位于广场身后。法塔希拉广场以雅加达历史博物馆为中心，在傍晚博物馆关闭后，门前的当地艺术表演便成为了主角。这些表演大多源自当地民间习俗，例如身穿民族服装的红鼻子丑角，身体保持半蹲状态，背后背着木桶，而象征着正义的另一角色挥舞手中的皮鞭猛烈地敲击木桶或地面以示惩罚，这种表演形式看起来粗暴有余美感不足，但可以从中看出当地人对于正义的高度宣扬，也算是原汁原味的当地特色。
法塔希拉广场每天都聚集着很多当地人，雅加达的民生百态在这里可以见识到一半。广场旁的街道两旁站满了商贩，售卖小吃、饰品，卖货的商贩似乎比行人还要多。也有几个年轻人组成的乐队在表演，虽然不懂得歌词的含义，但他们的音乐律动感十足，层次很丰富。这条街上年轻人居多，让我们感到意外的是，尽管当地人生活水平较低，但这些年轻人的行头装扮显然是精心修饰过，男生们也热衷于扎耳洞，带各种能突显个性的饰品，各路潮人汇聚在沧桑的老城区让这座广场来得更具冲击力。
LIFE IN PULAU AYER
小岛生活
印尼被称为“千岛之国”，在雅加达想沉浸在风光旖旎，椰林密布海岛景色中其实很简单。要知道从雅加达北部出港即使三四百个小岛。从市内的Marina Ancol码头出发，乘坐快艇25分钟便可到Pulau Ayer岛，雅加达城市对岸有三四百个岛屿分散着旅行的快乐，Ayer岛是距离雅加达最近的一个，来往的游客很多，因此也开发得非常完善。在前往Pulau Ayer岛的途中，随着快艇的接近，远远就可以看见小岛的白沙滩，同时Pulau Ayer岛上植被非常繁茂，看起来更像是一个神秘的热带森林岛，度假酒店的木屋别墅从岸边一排排延伸开来，岛上的所有建筑主体均为木制，与大自然相得益彰。沙滩边高大的椰子树下有很多供人休息的长椅，雅加达要比万隆热很多，在十一月平均气温要32℃，但在Ayer岛密林般的植物遮挡下，你可以感受到一丝难得的清凉。Pulau Ayer岛也是垂钓的天堂，在度假村木屋外，垂钓爱好者可以拿出渔具，席地而坐，静待鱼儿上钩。这里的鱼类非常多，会让你很有成就感。
MELTING POT OF FOOD
美食的集大成者
作为首都城市，雅加达有全世界多个地区的特色餐厅，不过最吸引人的还要属地道的印尼菜。印尼菜是东南亚菜系中重要的一部分，与印尼旖旎炫丽的自然景色一样，印尼菜通常看起来也是色泽艳丽，用料十足，如果你能接受印尼菜丰富的香料层次，也不烦感油炸食品，相信你会在特色印尼餐厅度过美好的用餐时光。
Dapur Babah餐厅在2012年被雅加达餐饮联合会评为“年度最佳餐厅”，非常受当地人欢迎。Dapur Babah的装潢非常特别，室内灯光很暗，从喧闹的街道踏入这仿佛一下子隔离了室外的喧嚣。餐厅墙面上挂满了照片，无声地叙说着餐厅百余年的历史，从照片中身着华服的人物和墙上的汉字小牌匾中不难看出华人老板对中华文化的尊崇。历史老照片只是餐厅庞大装饰的一部分，在餐厅的门厅上，柜台上，似乎只要是能放物品的地方都摆满了佛像、烛台和瓷器，在周围统一的暗红色桌布的映衬下有一点诡异的神秘感。
虽然Dapur Babah的装饰风格带有明显的中国元素和印度教气息，但却为食客提供地道的印尼菜肴。餐厅招牌的虾棒鸡肉套餐由几种印尼特色菜组合而成。咖喱鸡的咖喱味道很香，有印尼咖喱重香不重辣的特点。虾棒外面裹了面与面包屑过油炸，酥脆鲜嫩。芭蕉叶包裹的米饭被绿色的蔬菜汁染得翠绿，酱料也是印尼菜的精髓，最为突出的是辣椒酱。通常印尼餐厅的辣椒酱有红绿两种，绿色的要更辣，辣椒酱虽然看起来并不起眼，但吃起来却浓香可口，搭配牛肉、海鲜都极为出色。
右图：Dapur Babah餐厅装潢很特别，集合了中国、印尼以及印度教特色
左页左图起顺时针方向：繁茂的植被给小岛带来一丝清凉；Pulau Ayer小岛距离雅加达最近，也是游客的热门之选；在小岛的露天餐厅边品美食边观赏海景是很不错的选择，只是要避开中午的热浪
Tips
Dapur Babah餐厅
JL.Veteran 1 No.18，Central Jakarta
+62-21-70602256
BEAUTIFUL INDONESIA MINIATURE PARK
缩影公园观印尼
缩影公园（Taman Mini）坐落在雅加达城市南郊，即使驱车路过这里，行人也很容易被那风格迥异、占地面积庞大的建筑群所吸引。或许当你真正进入这个印尼微观大世界时心里也不禁感慨一句：“原来是来真格的”。
缩影公园简直可以让人对印尼国土一览无余，在构造上完全复制了印尼领土轮廓，哪里是海岛，哪里是陆地，划分得清清楚楚。岛上的城市、河流、铁路、山脉等，形象逼真。在缩影公园内，印尼全国 27 个省的地势景观，风格各异的建筑都依照原貌修建。在这里可以欣赏苏门答腊的热带风光，看到肃穆幽雅的白色寺庙和中爪哇岛上世界闻名的婆罗浮屠的小佛塔，也可以漫游伊里安查亚岛上的“热带原始森林”，看到古老陈旧的独木小舟，用树干搭成的高层茅草棚以及椰树丛中金碧辉煌的宫殿等。公园内的大部分建筑和人物都用泥塑而成，每座房屋、院落，每处森林、草场之中，都有人物、鸟兽的塑像，大小比例与真的一样。形形，栩栩如生。
园内按 27 个省的实际地理位置，修建了具有各地民族特色、形状各异的传统房屋，例如加里曼丹岛的尖顶船屋。这些屋子不仅外观精细，房间内部也别有洞天，传统工艺品、服装和乐器应有尽有，除出售各地土特产品外，还按时向游人表演少数民族歌舞。园内还有数十个旅游景点，包括三层楼的印尼博物馆、仙人掌花园、茉莉花花园、兰花花园手工艺与艺术村等，还建有伊斯兰教、佛教、印度教、基督教与天主教印尼五个主要宗教的祈祷场所。
缩影公园很大，因此园内提供了便利的交通工具，如小船、小火车、空中缆车，可以“海陆空”齐上，不过想要游遍整个园区也要一个下午的时间才不会太赶。缩影公园汲取了各省市的文化精华，正是这样的碎片造就了一个微缩之国的完整。
A BATIK CLASS
上一堂蜡染课
蜡染在印尼语为Batik，是印尼国宝级的手工艺文化。在雅加达纺织品博物馆里可见蜡染在印尼多个民族服装中均有很大的应用比例。但在一路的旅程中，也只是在街边大大小小的商铺中看到了蜡染成品，直到在纺织品博物馆后面的蜡染学习班里，我们才有幸参观到蜡染的制作过程。
学习班不算大，但非常整洁，与我之前想象中蜡油燃料随意摆放墙壁地面着了颜料的环境截然不同。棕色的木制地板上分布着五六个制造蜡染的热炉，炉子上面铁腕里的蜡油冒着缕缕青烟，碗边挂着铜制的蜡染针。蜡染炉四周各放一个小板凳，看来平时是四个人为一组上课。初学者的课程看起来很简单，蜡染老师发给每人一个绣好图案轮廓的白布，我们只需要用蜡染针蘸着热炉里的蜡液沿着轮廓勾勒就可以。不过，显然这项看起来简单的工作实则技术含量很高，当用蜡染针在热蜡炉里蘸好了蜡油开始操作时，布面上粗细不均的蜡染痕迹显然让人措手不及。那么，想做好蜡染你需要掌握最基本的技巧：首先蘸取的蜡油一定要适量，占蜡染针针管的三分之一左右最佳，如果太多那么从针管滴下的蜡油就会很大滴，布面上就会留下难看粗糙的蜡坨坨；在用蜡染针时也不可以让其垂直，蜡染针与布面呈45°角最好，否则蜡油流得太快也会造成蜡坨现象；其次动作一定要快，蜡油冷却速度快，如果动作慢，图案就会粗细不均或印染不透彻。
描好染布下一步就可以把染布交给师傅去着色了。从蜡染制作室的侧门出去就是蜡染池，把布料交给师傅时他会问你想要哪种颜色。带着长胶皮手套的师傅把蜡染布浸在染池里数分钟后，再拿出来晾干，就算完成一件初级的蜡染作品了。想着商店里精美到细如毫发的蜡染服饰，不得不对这些手工艺者心生敬意。
Tips
纺织品博物馆
JL.K.S Tubun N0.2-4，Jakarta Barat 11420+62-21-5606613
门票
个人：成人Rp.5000 团队：成人Rp.3750
学生Rp.3000 学生Rp.2250
儿童Rp.2000 儿童Rp.1500
旅行手册
购物指南
Grand Indonesia Shopping Town
Grand Indonesia在雅加达市中心，是东南亚地区最大的商场，商场有众多国际一线品牌，一层的Food Hall可品尝国际美食。这家商场有印尼最著名的Batik高级成衣品牌Alleira，从一块手帕到围巾和衣裤都精美无比。
JL.MH.Thamrin No.1，Central Jakarta
+62-21-23587000
Plaza Senayan
位于雅加达南部，在这里可以卖到印尼当地品牌和特色工艺品，除购物外，商场的建筑也很有趣，门前有六座巨大的音乐家塑像，每座雕塑代表一种乐器，商场里有世界著名的书店Kinokuniya。
JL.Asia Africa No.8，South Jakarta
+62-21-5725555
Taman Anggrek Mall
与Central Park商场同为雅加达西部最著名的商场，设施比较多元化，商场里有印尼最大的电影院Blitzmegaplex，也有大超市可以买当地特产。
Letjen S Parman，West Jakarta
+62-21-5643777
Tanah Abang
Tanah Abang的历史可以追溯到18世纪，是印尼最古老也是最大的纺织品交易区，在整个东南亚地区都非常有。
JL.Fachrudin No.1， Tanah Abang，Central Jakarta
+62-21-23570001
不可错过的地标建筑
The National Monument印尼民族独立纪念碑
民族独立纪念碑位于Merdeka广场中央，是雅加达最著名的地标。纪念碑高达132米，顶部有15米长的火焰型设计，在纪念碑下的入口处可以乘电梯抵达塔顶，在塔顶上可以俯瞰雅加达大半的景色，非常壮观。
JL.Taman Silang Monas，Gambir，Central Jakarta
The Istiqlal Mosque大清真寺
印尼是世界上穆斯林最多的国家，信奉伊斯兰教的印尼人超过百分之八十。在2010年美国总统奥巴马访问印尼的短短18个小时期间，参观Istiqlal清真是他此行的一部分，如他所言，Istiqlal清真寺是全世界穆斯林精神的集中体现。Istiqlal可同时容纳12万人，由于经费不足，清真寺内部设计较为简单，平日里显得很空旷。斯林的对于每一个穆斯林来说，能去圣城麦加朝拜是夙愿，Istiqlal清真寺教会组织每年会选取出一名幸运儿，用募捐得来的会费资助这位穆斯林去麦加。Istiqlal清真寺里有穆斯林学堂，在这里学习的孩子大都来自严格的穆斯林家庭，女孩子早早便包起了头巾。
JL.Taman Wijaya Kusuma， Central Jakarta
天主教大教堂
天主教大教堂在建造上颇为曲折，教堂早在19世纪初启用，之后不幸发生火灾，1890年进行灾后重建时竟意外倒塌，不过经过政府和教友的努力，终于在1901年重新开放。大教堂外观是欧洲大陆的新歌德建筑风格，教堂顶部高达60的尖顶非常醒目。教堂外的人物浮雕非常精致，教堂内部穹顶很高，彩色窗户环绕了半个礼拜堂，墙上布满了圣经故事的壁画，天主教徒们都在此寻找最诚挚的庇佑。
JL.Katedral 7B， Central Jakarta