Old times’ sake

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Daman’s history is ratified by impressive monuments built during its Portuguese colonial period. During the pleasant winter months， a heritage walk in Moti Daman offers an excellent opportunity to see elaborate churches and well-preserved monuments that were built during the reign of the Portuguese that began with their conquest of the territory in the 1530s till 1961， when it became a Union Territory of India. The walk is best done in the morning.

The fort of Moti Daman makes an impressive sight when seen from the bridge across the river with its walls， gate and candy-striped lighthouse. The imposing stone battlements encircle the old quarters with Latinate mansions.

The fort walls are interspersed with bastions and have two gateways—the landward gate flanked by bastions was completed in 1581 after a Mughal invasion and the sea gate gives the date of 1593 for the completion of the fort’s wall. The fort’s landward east end has a moat， drawbridge and a bastion atop which is a cell where prisoners spent their final days—the appalling conditions of those condemned to death is part of the best-selling chronicle of Charles Dellon， an unfortunate French physician who was interned here and witnessed 40 prisoners hang themselves with their own turbans rather than endure life in the cell.

From the seaward gate， walk along the shaded main street through the fort， which runs between arched entrances sculpted with Portuguese arms， a saint carrying a sword and giants that show Indian influences. The street will bring you into a leafy environment with many attractive low-rise buildings. Spend some time looking at the facades of two-storey mansions， once residences of Portuguese nobles. Many of these now house government offices and you may be allowed in to see the sweeping staircases and shuttered windows overlooking gardens. The Secretariat here was once the Portuguese Governor’s palace.

Continue walking to the Chapel of Our Lady Remedies， built in 1607. Inside， the church gleams with blue and gold paint and teems with angels， scrolls and flowers. Even more elaborate is the Cathedral Church of Bom Jesus， founded in 1559 and consecrated in 1603， which has been washed with paint a few years ago. This is one of the best maintained Portuguese buildings anywhere in India. The arched doorway leads to a massive hallway with a lofty roof， ornate furniture and richly decorated walls. The piece de resistance is the baroque altar reredos， embellished with gilded carvings， florid designs， statues of six saints， the main figure of infant Jesus.

South of the church square is the Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary dating from 1623， with an ornate altar. The carved and gilded panels of this chapel feature events from the life of Jesus， some of the interesting ones relating to the adoration of the Magi， Jesus teaching as child and Mary’s ascension. It is said that the statue of Mary of Rosary was donated by a Portuguese commander as thanksgiving after surviving a Maratha attack led by Shivaji Maharaj.

From here， you can get a taxi to visit the Jampore Beach where there are some decent eateries. Alternatively， cross the Damanganga to the northern side where you can see Nani Daman’s Sao Jeromino Fort. Walk along the parapets of the fort for a good view of the sea.

Near the fort， the Jetty and Seaface Road get lively in the evening. You can enjoy fresh catch from the sea， cooked with herbs and winter vegetables. Try the Damanese fish and mutton curries at the Daman Delite Restaurant or at some of the smaller eateries. On the pavements， you can get jetty rolls which are the local versions of Kolkata kathi rolls， fried fish and localised Chinese snacks from vendors. As Daman is set along the Gujarat coast， vegetarians can get good Gujarati thalis here.

Call it a day as you watch the lights come on along the beach and Daman prepares to go to bed.