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悠闲巴斯:英格兰温泉之城

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After three days in London, I wanted to see some of the romantic

English countryside I’d read about in

novels. So I paged through my travel guide, went to an Internet café, and booked a 1)hostel and train tickets for Bath.

The next morning, the train left Paddington Station and traveled west across the beautiful 2)fields of England.

Bath felt like 3)scented oil after the 4)abrasion of the capital, as I was met an hour-and-a-half later with a 5)chorus of bird songs and green all around. Beneath the modern shops and the 6)hum of tourists, Bath is still a place of 7)serenity and charm.

Romans created baths here in about 43 AD out of natural hot mineral springs. The baths then 8)decayed for centuries until they were rediscovered during Queen Victoria’s 9)reign. For many more centuries, Bath became a holiday destination for royalty and nobles.

During the 18th century, Bath was the most fashionable spa in Britain, in part through the efforts

of 10)architect John Wood the Elder and his son, John Wood the Younger, who designed the city

using stones from the nearby hills. They developed

the beautiful 11)terraces and Palladian注1

12)villas, creating one of the most architecturally 13)harmonious cities in England.

Upon checking into my hostel, I headed downtown, where I walked slowly through lanes filled with cafés and shops. I found a classic British restaurant, where I sat

outside to watch people chatting and

window shopping in the evening glow.

As dusk settled in, I wandered north of the city center to the River Avon. Turning aside to follow a canal, I passed men in their boats drinking inside smoky 14)hulls, doing repairs or 15)barbecuing on the banks with their families. The day melted into darkness. I left the canal and walked back to my hostel.

The fortune of this city has always been linked to its hot springs and tourism. In the past, it has attracted such well-known

persons as Jane Austen (who included Bath in her novels Persuasion and Northanger Abbey), Charles Dickens and William Thackeray注2.

As I left Bath Spa Train Station a few days later, I carried with me a 16)treasury of memories: afternoons 17)punting on the Avon with new friends; wandering the streets; watching street performers; and joining the tourists in their 18)merrymaking.

I felt I had discovered a special place -

one that had been found before by so many, and would continue to be enjoyed by so many more.

在伦敦呆了三天后,我想看一看以前在小说里读到的英国乡村的浪漫景致。于是我翻阅了旅游指南,到网吧上网,订了一家旅馆和一张去巴斯的火车票。

第二天一早,火车驶离帕丁顿火车站向西开去,沿途穿越美丽的英格兰田野。

离开首都的喧嚣劳顿一个半小时之后,我置身鸟儿欢唱和青葱环绕之中――巴斯给我的感觉就像芳香精油似的。在时尚商店和旅客的吵闹声之下,巴斯仍是一个洋溢着宁静的魅力城市。

公元43年左右,罗马人利用这里的天然矿物温泉建造了浴场。此后数世纪,这些浴场逐渐衰落,直至维多利亚女王统治时期才被重新发现。多个世纪以来,巴斯成为皇公贵族的度假胜地。

18世纪期间,巴斯是英国最流行的温泉胜地,部分原因要归功于建筑师约翰・伍德和他的儿子小约翰・伍德,他们用附近山上的石头设计建造了这座城市。父子俩设计出美丽的排屋和仿帕拉第奥式别墅,创造了英格兰其中一个建筑最为和谐的城市。

在旅馆登记入住后,我前往市中心,在咖啡屋和商店林立的街道上漫步。我找到一家典型英国风格的餐馆,就在外面坐下,在夕阳的余晖里看着人们聊天、逛街。

随着夜幕降临,我从市中心向北散步来到埃文河畔。拐过弯,我沿着一条小运河走,一路上经过在冒着烟的小船里喝酒的人,还有在岸边修修补补或正和家人烧烤的人们。一天就这样融入沉沉夜色中。我离开小河,走回旅馆。

这座城市的财富与它的温泉和旅游业一直紧密相联。过去,它曾吸引了各色名人到访,比如简・奥斯汀(她曾在其小说《劝导》和《诺桑觉寺》里提到过巴斯)、查尔斯・狄更斯和威廉・萨克雷。

几天后,当我离开巴斯温泉火车站,我也带上那些珍贵的回忆:午后和新结交的朋友泛舟埃文河上;在街上漫步;观看街头艺人表演;和游客们一起狂欢。

我觉得自己发现了一个很特别的地方――以前已经有很多人发现了这个地方,今后将会有更多的人享受这里的美妙。