天堂杭州有个小小的“家”
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杭州灵隐禅寺东侧北高峰下，茶园连片，有百亩之多，其间单门独户突兀起一座朴素淡雅的小院落。院墙内外有几树绿荫，掩映如孤岛。横过茶园，有条名叫白乐桥、古代马车般宽的路，尽头处是灵隐寺后门和上北高峰的山道。小院正门时常紧闭，偶尔打开就合上。门前路过的人多是茶农、僧人和当地香客，他们知道这里不对外开放，只有初来乍到的游客对它好奇，透过院墙上的花窗，见到里面粉墙黑瓦，屋檐三重四叠，玻璃窗棂和墙壁爬满绿藤，屋顶上树冠如伞，有座宁静的二层小楼，再走近门前，望门头“孟庄”二字的匾额，又瞧门左侧立着的石头上刻着的字时，才“噢”的一声走开。
八月的丝丝雨雾里我们拖着行囊来到时，见两扇黑漆小木门如普通人家，很是亲切，回家一样高兴地又按门铃又拍打铜门环。旁边的团团桂树无声无息。门里一阵响动，传来应答声和取木门栓声，一会儿门“嘎吱吱”打开来。十天后我们离别时，桂花初开的香气在暮色中若有若无，从车窗伸头往回一望，见大门口路灯暖暖的橘黄色光晕里，主人相送的身形立在桂树下，心窝一热，眼前立即闪现一幕幕在“家”数日的情景，耳畔仿佛飘来巴金生前给这创作之家的一句留言：“这真是我的家。”
孟庄的正门不常开，一扇圆形侧门却天明开到夜里，人出人进的。门里无外人，一年四季住着工作人员和流云般一批批带家人来休养的全国各地作家。我揣通知书携夫而来，与来自天南地北、只闻名未谋面的9位作家和其家眷20余人同一屋檐下生活了十天，如归的感觉，与过去20年间住过的千余名作家在留言簿中所记下的，与贴在棋室两边墙上的三四十位大名鼎鼎作家的留言，不相上下。我们是今年第八批入住者，初见面孔新，一两天就相处成一家：共同在餐厅吃饭，洗衣房洗衣，花厅观鱼，棋室下棋，书房阅读，客厅聊天，阳台听蝉，看过道上入住者们的留影照片，出门游玩结队成群彼此照应，一人有难题十人出手相助。在俗尘喧嚣的当今，有这样一个地方让人把高低之心先放一放，以家常之态共处，无忧无虑，轻松舒服地生活几天，实在难得。我就是在这里初次感受到什么叫杭州人间天堂的，同时禁不住对创作之家感慨起来：住过这里的作家们，包括文学巨匠巴金，有“家”的感言，20余年后的我等无名之辈，竟然也同感，可见治理这个“家”的功夫非一朝一夕可得，也非三言两语可道。
这个小小的“家”很惹人喜爱。进门后处处精致清雅，简洁明亮，一尘不染，一看就想住下，并且住出它宜居宜室的妙处。比如尽管房间、过道有落地玻璃窗、玻璃门，室内每个角落都能被天光照亮，但还是留出两个小天井，一个在大门与二门之间，方方两步宽，墙上爬满青藤；一个在客厅外，置假山，有锦鲤游来游去的鱼池，四面的瓦沟水都淌在池子里。这两个承天接露之地，小得如同两个鼻孔，让人感觉到小楼均匀的一呼一吸。再比如书房门外十步见方的小庭院和几台石阶下去的半亩地左右的绿草坪，一小一大抵围墙，由于墙体被藤木遮蔽得不见影子，宛如小树林，让人有延伸到户外一样的原野感，很畅快。
我对小庭院印象尤佳，这里让我找到不只是一般意义上的如归，而是内心深处归于文学创作这个家。这里原本是个在书房呆久了出来信步的地方，由于它太小，除我之外不见别人来此转悠。别人都是一家人两口三口地出门散步，门外茶园一览无余，灵隐寺古木夹道，溪流相行。我与丈夫每晚也到寺旁散步听水声，直到树丛黑得令人发毛才回头。而只想独自一人踱步时，我不由自主就往小庭院来了，这里地上铺着小石子，沿院墙有丛丛紫竹和芭蕉。我每在庭院中央的樟树下一坐，眼前似乎梦幻般出现我最喜爱的几位唐宋词人的影子，在翠竹碧叶间若有若无地低吟浅唱起一句两句唐宋小令来。我不明白为何在这里理解坡、李易安等人的诗词，比别处容易得多？起身走走，抬头瞥见黑黝黝瓦顶上的苔藓；或在庭院边上凭栏，望近处草坪上立着的一块青藤披发般的石头，辨认其上刻着的密密麻麻的字迹。这种时候，眼前会晃动曾在此住过而自己不曾见过的作家们的身影，其中以巴金的身影最为清晰，大概是客厅墙壁显著位置上挂着他住这里的留影，小庭院里的立石上刻着他的留言的缘故吧。我问创作之家负责人柯朗曦那块立石的事，他说巴老过世后，创作之家无比怀念，因此刻石。我从石头背面刻文上读到巴金耄耋之年几次来此居住的具体时间，知道那几年正是《随想录》热销、中国学界文坛无不谈论这本忏悔录之时。那时还是文学青年的我去新华书店购回《随想录》，一本接一本囫囵吞枣地捧读，根本没想到此地有个巴老的“家”。
创作之家的石刻有三块，镇“家”石正面刻着巴老手书的留言，全文是：“这真是我的家。我忘不了在这里过的愉快的两个星期。谢谢你们。巴金 一九九年十月十四日在杭州创作之家”。与这立石相对，中间隔了小庭院，横坐在草坪上的，是刻满作家签名的石头。还有就是伫立正门旁边的那块，上面刻着的“中国作家协会杭州创作之家”几个字，是套用鲁迅的手迹。
灵隐景区是杭州西湖风景名胜区的核心地，上世纪末本世纪初景区内居民和单位全部搬迁，唯一留下了创作之家。这里原本是杭州一位商人的别业，人们称“孟庄”，总共一亩一分一厘地，中国作家协会1955年购得，1988年推倒重来，建起“中国作家协会杭州创作之家”。创作之家的工作人员大多是建“家”的元老，从青年再到中年，年龄最大的快退休了。“家”里做的杭帮菜非常可口，尤其是西湖醋鱼和东坡肉，让我们吃得忍不住问这问那的。大厨章师傅是“家”里的年长者，我问起孟庄建成的年代，他带我径直到小庭院，指着荫蔽了半个院子的几株樟枫老树说，这是孟庄遗物，已经弯腰搭背靠墙支撑了。我说这有江南园林的韵味。章师傅笑了，说台风一来很麻烦，树摇晃得把瓦片都闪了裂，每年花气力翻修瓦顶。
在这个20余年中接待过那么多中国作家协会会员，日后不断有作家来休息，百年后不知要住过多少作家的“家”里，我要么在自己的房间里慢慢呷着龙井茶，与它默对；要么在厅堂间惬意地到处走来走去，与它神交；要么在庭院里小憩，与它融为一体，仿佛这样才不负了这个人间天堂里的“家”。
（本文摄影：黄豆米）
Home to Authors in Paradise-like Hangzhou
By Huang Doumi
Authors’ Home is one of the names for a freestanding residential courtyard at the foot of North Tall Peak and paces away from the prestigious Lingyin Temple. The courtyard stands adjacent to a large tea plantation spread all the way to the foot of wooded mountains in the north. The front gate of the courtyard usually stays closed. Tea farmers， monks and local pilgrims know that the courtyard is not a tourist destination， but tourists are often curious about the residence that looks traditional， mysterious， cozy and attractive. On their way to the majestic temple or to the towering peak， they often stop and try to peer into the courtyard through the open windows on the wall.
Traditionally it is called “The Meng’s House”， a residence built and owned by a wealthy businessman surnamed Meng several generations ago. Now it serves as a guesthouse where authors from all over China come to spend a certain period as guests of China Writers Association.
Inside the courtyard stands a two-storied house， with overturned eaves， black roof tiles， walls covered by green vines， largely covered by trees spreading overhead.
My husband and I came to the guesthouse on a rainy day in late August 2012. We were in Hangzhou for a ten-day vacation. So were nine other authors and their family members. The guesthouse was where we stayed. When we left ten days later， sweet osmanthus was beginning to bloom and the aroma was wafting.
My husband and I called it home. So did the other nine authors and their family members. So did about 1，000 authors from all over the country who have stayed there， as testified by messages in visitors’ books. The best-known guest in the history of the guesthouse is probably Ba Jin （1904-2005）， a Shanghai-based novelist of the 20th century China and former president of China Writers Association. A stone stele in the courtyard manifests an inscription by Ba Jin： “This is my home. The two pleasant weeks I spent here is unforgettable. Ba Jin on October 14， 1990.” Another stone stele stands in the center of the lawn and carries the names of some authors who have stayed there.
I was impressed by the beauty of the West Lake and I was impressed by the guesthouse where everyone feels at home. We were the eighth batch of guests staying at the residence in 2012. Within a day or two， we mixed and felt like a family. We shared a dining room， a laundry， a fish pond， a chess/poker room， a library， a sitting room， and a balcony. The walls in the corridors were covered by photos of the visitors of the past. The casual and carefree ambience at the guesthouse is relaxing. It was at this guesthouse that I first came to understand why Hangzhou is widely known as “paradise on earth.”
I was not surprised to find that almost all the guests who had stayed at the guesthouse described it as homelike.
The courtyard is a lovely affair， small， homey， tidy， well lit， and dustless. This is a house where I would want to live in with all the conveniences for home. Things here are of small proportions. The small courtyard has two small patios. One connects the front gate and the door of the house and the other sits beyond the living room， with a rockery and a fishpond， all miniaturized. There is a 10-pace x 10-pace garden outside the door of the library and a lawn， both reaching the courtyard wall， covered thickly by vines.
A stream zigzags past the guesthouse. In the evening， my husband and I often strolled to the nearby Buddhist sanctuary and sat there listening to the stream. We would stay there until the woods became dark.
The guesthouse used to be part of a residential area near the temple. Toward the end of the 20th century， all the residents and institutions there relocated except the Meng’s Residence. China Writers Association bought the 750-m2 residence in 1955 and， in 1988， the old house was leveled and a new courtyard was built on the site. Most employees at the guesthouse have been working there since 1988.
Chef Zhang cooks in Hangzhou style. He is the oldest employee at the guesthouse. We found his dishes were pleasant and yummy. We had so many questions to ask about his secrets to turn such ordinary food into delicious memories. I asked him how old the Meng’s Residence was and he showed me several old trees whose shades cover almost half of the lawn. The trees are so old that they lean on the wall for support. I commented that the trees add a lovely touch to the garden in traditional architecture style， common to the south of the Yangtze River Delta. He laughed and said the trees made trouble when typhoons hit Hangzhou in summer. The trees shake and sway in typhoons so much that roof has to be refurbished every year.
During the ten days and nights I was Hangzhou， I enjoyed every minute of the home： sipping Dragon Well Tea in my room， wandering through the house， the garden， the lawn， and the patios， sitting quietly somewhere in the courtyard， merging myself with the home away from home， thinking of ancient poetry that stays in minute details of the residence. That was my way to enjoy the home in the paradise on earth.