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600年,在颤悠中屹立

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注:土楼,中国古建筑之奇葩,最具代表性的当属闽西永定、南靖两县四大土楼建筑群,其外景多有介绍。美丽的晏黎女士这次因缘际会,亲历最为奇特的下坂村“东倒西歪”楼内部场景,让她用镜头告诉你:岁月的沧桑,生活的坚毅。

Note : The earth floor,the wonder of Chinese ancient architectures,the most representative were the Four Great Architectures Complex of earth floor in YongDing County and NanJing County, west FuJian province.Their outside scenes were widely propagandized,however,a pretty lady,named Grace,who got a great occasion to visit inside scenes of the sloping and tilting floor in XiaBan Village personally , which was the most peculiar among the above-mentioned floors.“The tribulation of years and the resolution of lifes”,let her tell you,with her camera.

田螺坑下行4km就到了下坂村,村里十二座土楼井然有序地排列在南溪河两岸,我要看的“东倒西歪”楼就在这个村里,学名叫裕昌楼。从外面看,它和正常土楼没什么区别,可是当你踏入它的大门,你就会猛然发现全楼的回廊支撑木立柱左歪右倒,最大的倾角达到了15O,似乎稍有大风它就会轰然倒塌。我小心翼翼地爬上楼去,且不论那些歪歪斜斜的支柱,即使是脚下的楼板也有好些是后铺上去的木板条,显然年久失修已经苍老,踩在木板上颤颤悠悠,心悬一线间啊!尚有一些工程,似乎是几百年来,断断续续,至今仍没有完工,多余的木料一直搭在顶楼上的梁架和走廊上。轻踏着楼板从各个角度巡视着这座奇迹般耸立的土楼内部,看着这楼看着这楼内的居民泰然自若地生活着,倒觉得自己的担心多余了,楼主告诉我大可放心地在楼里漫步参观,因为六百年风来雨去、沧桑更替,裕昌楼一直就是这样的,斜而不倒,稳如泰山。

一楼是各家各户的厨房,二楼是粮谷仓,三楼以上才是居住的房间,这样布置的目的是为了防涝,更是为了方便和安全。深入内部才知道,裕昌楼的另一大特色就是水井是打在屋子里面的,与其他开在土楼中心空旷处的水井不同,倒是给生火做饭提供了极大的便利。楼上的房间全是单间,各家一间,家家都仅一墙之隔,估计楼内哪家打呼哪家咳嗽全楼都能听见,他们倒也真能适应。想象着这么一座楼这样多的家庭在里面生活,大家的团结友爱和互相包容谦让是必不可少的,真正叫人敬佩!

听说当年建房的时候因为是集资建房(600年前的集资建房!),楼是由五姓人家合建的,木匠师傅和泥水师傅便由五姓人家轮流供饭。一个寒流袭来的夜晚,刚供完一轮饭的人家以为没事了,早早就吹灯睡觉,轮到供饭的那一户人家以为是明天一大早的事,天一黑也钻进被窝了。两家没有交接好,这就苦了夜晚加班的木匠师傅,天寒地冻,饥肠辘辘,以为主人家该送来热气腾腾的点心,谁知老半天不见动静,越等越失望。也不知是饿得神思恍惚还是有意作弄,木匠师傅这一晚上做出的榫子都不合规范,榫眼太大而榫头太小,不过主人没有发现,立柱上梁之后一时也没有出现异常,可是刚建好没多久就歪了。这一歪就是600年!

[本文部分引自博博客旅行生活网(www.省略)]

With a distance of 4 kilometres from TianLuokeng Village along the NanXi River, you would come to XiaBan Village where the sloping and tilting floor was located, formally called YuChang Floor. The outside was without differences by comparing to the other earth floors.But when you stepped into the gate,you would suddenly find that the supporting pillars were all sloping and tilting , and the oblique was so large, even up to 15 degrees that it was likely to collapse all of sudden when there was a little strong wind.I went upstairs carefully.Even though some of boards under my feet were paved in the latest , I still felt much worried by walking on these boards ! Some projects,started or stopped, lasted for hundreds of years,and the wood materials deposited on the girder frames or passage.I walked softly and inspected the inside of this miraculous building from every angle.Seeing people there lived composedly,I felt my worries about safety seemed to be unnecessary.Over the past 600 years the YuChang Floor still stood as steady as the Mountain Tai,though tilted, said by one house owner.

In order to defend the waterlogging,and even for convenience and security,the arrangement of the building was that the kitchen was placed at the first floor,the barn at the second,and the third floor for resident room.Till I went deep into the inside,I would find another great characteristic of the YuChang Floor,that was,the well located inside of the house,which was different from other earth floors where the wells located in the central spacious region of the building.Owing to that way,it provided great convenience for people cooking.The rooms on the upstairs were all single room,Each family had one and there was only a wall separated each other,the people living there would hear who had a breath,and who had a cough.however, people there took it for granted and adapted to the condition.Imagine so many families living in only one building,uniting, fraternity and tolerating were vital to them,and how admirable they were.

It was heard that the building was built by five families with collective capitals,so the meals for carpenters and plasters were supplied by these five families by turns.One cold night,one of the five have finished the meal supply and thought there was no other demand,so went to sleep early,at the same time,the other family who would supply the meal tomorrow by turns,also thought that the matter would be the things of next morning,and went to rest too.Therefore,without turning over their mutual duties well,the carpenters who worked overtime at night suffered cold and hunger,but they still anticipated the house owners to take some hot pastry for them.To their depression,there was no movement at all.At that night,the workswhich the carpenters made were all out of standard.The eyes were too big and the heads were too small,but the house owners could not discover,moreover,there was no unusual state the moment the pillar set up,but very soon they sloped and tilted.Sloping and tilting,and 600 years past,it stood steadily.