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眼镜漫谈 第2期

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If you don’t wear glasses yourself, chances are that someone in your family, or someone you know, does. Much care is taken in the selection of glasses nowadays to be sure that the style is attractive and the frames are comfortably fitted. A good fit is necessary for maximum benefit from the lenses; however, in the early days fit was not considered at all. For this reason, the first eyeglasses were not easy to wear.

The earliest glasses were merely lenses fitted into circles that were riveted1 or wired together at the top, then balanced on the nose. Any movement of the head caused the glasses to slip or fall off. Centuries passed before improvements upon these first versions were made. It is no wonder that early spectacle2 wearers found it convenient to have their lenses3 mounted on a long handle that they could hold in place by hand.

The earliest known record of eyeglasses in Europe is found in a book written in 1267. Called Opus Majus, it was a scientific encyclopedia written by Roger Bacon4 of England at the request of Pope Clement IV5, a personal friend of Bacon's. Although the subject of lenses to correct vision defects6 was discussed in the book, Bacon was careful to keep his own knowledge on the subject quiet7. At that time, the masses of people were not educated, and superstition ruled their lives. Many believed that any device to correct a physical defect was black magic8 and should be strenuously9 avoided. Some years later, Bacon was imprisoned for two years for his work in alchemy10, an early form of chemistry. Being a scientist in the 1200s presented many risks.

By the middle of the 1300s, many churchmen were using eyeglasses. Paintings produced during this period show the various types of glasses commonly used. At this time books were still being written by hand, and only churchmen could read or write. After the invention of the printing press11 in the 15th century, when everyone who wished could obtain books, vision defects not noticed before became evident. Some people who had been able to see well enough to perform daily tasks found that their eyesight was not good enough for reading. It was then that eyeglasses became more generally accepted.

The first lenses were designed for people who were farsighted; those who could see well at a distance but could not focus clearly on things up close. The lenses described by Bacon in his encyclopedia were helpful to the farsighted. Nearly 300 years later, lenses for the nearsighted were developed. Leo X, who was Pope in the early 1500s, was nearsighted. He was very enthusiastic about his eyeglasses and thought they improved his aim while hunting.

Frames for the earliest eyeglasses were made of horn, tortoise shell, leather, or wood. Later, brass was used. Also, for the very rich, frames were made of gold or silver. Before the semicircular piece was designed to fit over the bridge of the nose, flexibility in the piece holding the two lenses together was sought in various ways. When made of bone, horizontal slits12 were cut in the bridge. The invention of the fitted bridge was only a slight improvement at the time, for without the temple13 pieces glasses had to be balanced on the nose or held in place14. Leather frames were tried at this time, with long leather thongs15 that were tied at the back of the wearer's head. They never gained wide popularity, however, because men as well as women wore elaborate wigs, and the leather ties interfered with16 hairdos.

Early in the 1700s a London spectacle maker named Edward Scarlett, sympathizing with17 wig wearers, invented improved frames with the addition of sidepieces that fit alongside the head for about four inches. Later these pieces were lengthened and made to fit over the ears.

The next big advance in eyeglasses took place about fifty years later when Benjamin Franklin invented his“double spectacles,”now popularly called bifocals18. Our eyes change as we grow older. We may need lenses to focus on close-up work, while still needing corrective lenses for distance. Franklin needed both kinds of lenses. Because of the nuisance of changing from one pair of glasses to another, he cut the lenses from both pairs in half and combined the bottom halves of his close-up lenses with the top halves of the distance lenses, then cemented19 them together and placed them in his frames. He found this a great improvement and today many people wear two kinds of lenses in one pair of frames.

Today the optician20 ’s trade is a highly specialized profession. Lenses are ground21 to individual specifications. Frames are sometimes made of plastic, although some wire rims22remain popular year after year. In the 1930s and 1940s, many wore glasses without rims in an effort to make glasses nearly invisible. Now, those who do not like to wear glasses but need visual correction usually turn to contact lenses that are worn directly on the surface of their eyes.

Many who need corrective lenses use them as a fashion accessory. Hundreds of styles are available to enhance some facial features and deemphasize23 those not so desirable. Oversized frames go in and out of style, but not everyone can wear them. Some people have facial characteristics that make it impossible to keep large frames from resting on the cheeks, causing discomfort. Still, there is enough variation in styles offered that every person can find frames that flatter24 as well as fit and that are comfortable and easy to wear.

即使你本人不属于“眼镜一族”,你的家人或你认识的人里也很可能会有人戴眼镜。如今,人们花很多心思挑选眼镜,确保其样式美观、镜框佩戴舒适。要最大限度地发挥镜片的效能,则必须佩戴舒适的眼镜。但是,早期的眼镜却完全没有考虑佩戴舒适的问题。因此,最早的眼镜佩戴起来并不方便。

最早的眼镜只是把镜片镶在镜圈里,再把两个镜圈从上面铆在一起或是用金属丝串联在一起,就这样直接架在鼻子上。头部的任何活动都会导致眼镜滑脱或摔落。几个世纪之后,这种眼镜的雏形才得以改进。难怪早期那些戴眼镜的人会觉得把镜片固定在一根长柄上、手握长柄将眼镜举在眼前的做法很方便。

在欧洲,已知的关于眼镜的最早记录可见于一部写于1267年的书。这部科学百科全书名为《大著作》,由英国人罗杰·培根应自己的朋友教皇克雷芒四世之邀而作。尽管书中探讨了用透镜矫正视力缺陷的问题,培根却十分谨慎,对自己在这方面的了解只字未提。当时,民众普遍没有受过教育,人们的生活受到种种迷信观念的支配。许多人认为所有可以矫正身体缺陷的发明都是巫术,应该竭力回避。数年后,培根由于在炼金术——化学的前身——领域的研究而入狱两年。在13世纪,当科学家是一件充满风险的事。

到14世纪中叶,很多神职人员已在使用眼镜了。这一时期的画作描绘了一些常用的眼镜样式。当时,书籍仍然都是手写本,而且只有神职人员才能读书写字。15世纪印刷机发明之后,想看书的人有了书看,之前一直未被人们注意的视力问题变得突显。一些在处理日常事务时眼神不错的人,却发现他们的眼睛在阅读时变得不够好使了。正是从那时起,眼镜才越来越广泛地为人们所接受。

最早的镜片是为远视者设计的。远视者能够清晰地看到远处的物体,对于近在眼前的物体却对焦不准而看不清楚。培根在他的百科全书中描述过的镜片对远视者颇有帮助。近三百年之后,人们才研制出了矫正近视的镜片。16世纪初在位的教皇利奥十世眼睛近视。他十分喜欢自己的眼镜,认为它帮助自己在狩猎时瞄得更准。

最早的眼镜架是由兽角、龟壳、皮革或木头制成的。随后,出现了铜镜架。同时,还有为大富豪们制作的金质、银质镜架。架在鼻梁上的半圆形的鼻梁架发明之前,人们想了很多办法增加两个镜片连接部位的灵活度。比如在骨质镜架上,人们会在鼻梁架上刻上一组水平的狭缝。发明出大小适中的鼻梁架在当时只能算是一种很小的进步,因为如果没有眼镜腿,眼镜仍然只能被架在鼻子上或用手举在眼前。这一时期人们还试制了皮质镜架。这种镜架有两条长皮带,可以系在佩戴者的脑后。不过,这种镜架一直未得到广泛使用。因为当时无论男女都戴着复杂精致的假发,而皮带打的结会把发型弄乱。

18世纪初,伦敦一位名叫爱德华·斯卡利特的眼镜制造商同情假发佩戴者,发明了一种经过改良的镜架。这种镜架增加了一对长约四英寸(编者注:约十厘米,现代的眼镜腿通常长约十四厘米)、能卡在人头部两侧的眼镜腿。后来,人们增加了这种眼镜腿的长度,使它刚好能架在耳朵上。

约五十年后,眼镜又取得了一项巨大的进步,当时本杰明·富兰克林发明了“双光眼镜”,即我们现在所说的“双焦眼镜”。随着年龄逐渐增长,我们的眼睛也会发生变化。我们在需要矫正镜片帮我们看清远处物体的同时,可能还需要能帮我们看清近处物体的镜片。富兰克林就同时需要这两种镜片。由于嫌两副眼镜换着戴太麻烦,富兰克林就把两副眼镜的镜片全部一分为二,将近景镜片的下半部分和远景镜片的上半部分固定在一起嵌入了镜框。他发现这是一个很大的改进。时至今日,许多人都在戴这种一副镜架上有两种镜片的眼镜。

如今,眼镜技师是一种非常专业的职业。镜片被磨制成各种不同的规格。尽管一些金属丝的镜架年复一年经久不衰,镜架有时也有由塑料制成的。20世纪30和40年代,许多人为了使眼镜近乎“隐形”而佩戴无边框眼镜。现在,那些不愿意戴眼镜却又需要矫正视力的人通常会选择直接覆在眼球表面的隐形眼镜。

许多需要矫正镜片的人也把眼镜当作一种时尚配饰。有成百上千的眼镜式样可供人选择,用来衬托五官的特点或掩盖那些不尽如人意的地方。超大型镜架时而流行时而过气,但不是所有人都适合佩戴它们。有些人的面部特点使得这种超大镜架容易滑落到脸颊上,戴起来不太舒服。不过,由于有多种镜架款式可供选择,所以每个人都能找到既美观又适合自己、佩戴起来既舒适又方便的款式。

1. rivet vt. 铆,铆接(钢板等)

2. spectacle n. 眼镜

3. lens n. 透镜,镜片

4. Roger Bacon: 罗杰·培根(1212~1294),英国科学家、哲学家。他的最大贡献在于强调观察和实验在科学研究中的重要性。

5. Pope Clement IV: 教皇克雷芒四世(1195~1268),1265~1268年间任罗马天主教教皇。

6. vision defect: 视觉缺陷

7. keep sth. quiet: 将某事保密

8. black magic: 妖术,魔法,巫术

9. strenuously adv. 强烈地,激烈地

10. alchemy n. 炼金术;炼丹术

11. printing press: 印刷机

12. slit n. 狭长的口子;裂缝;狭缝

13. temple n.

眼镜腿,眼镜脚

14. in place: 在合适的(或常处的、原来的、指定的)位置

15. thong n. 皮带子;条带

16. interfere with: 妨碍,冲突

17. sympathize with: 对……表示同情

18. bifocal n. [~s]双焦眼镜

19. cement vt. (用水泥或胶接剂)粘结,胶合

20. optician n. 眼镜(或光学仪器)制造者;配制眼镜技师;光学仪器制造技师

21. grind vt. 磨;磨成;ground为其过去分词

22. rim n. [~s] (镶在器物周围的)框,边

23. deemphasize vt. 使不重要,贬低……的重要性;不强调

24. flatter vt. 使显得优点突出