走访雨果的泽西故居
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尽管对法国大文豪雨果的成名作《悲惨世界》《巴黎圣母院》《笑面人》等都看过，但我还是对雨果知之甚少。去年夏天我到英国泽西岛探亲，恰巧我居住的海湾社区就是雨果在150年前流亡时租住的地方。于是我兴致勃勃地借了一本泽西英文版地图，背着旅行包步行去寻访雨果留在泽西的足迹。
海滩边的纪念碑和故居
雨果是历史上长期居住英国泽西的世界文化名人，所以泽西岛一直以此为荣。当地社区在雨果的故居海滩上，选了一座耸立挺拔的礁石，镶嵌着一块长90厘米、宽65厘米的白玉碑，刻着：Victor Hugo 1852.8―1855.10。
雨果是1848年法国革命的参加者。他反对拿破仑三世的专制与暴力，结果被勒令出国流亡。流亡中他之所以不去美国纽约、英国伦敦，而是选择在泽西岛生活，其原因是他非常爱祖国，爱说法语而不愿说英语，因为泽西岛离法国诺曼底只有36海里，原住民都讲法语，雨果就是看重泽西的这一特殊性。
往纪念雨果的白玉碑海滩走去，约100米处就是雨果的故居所在地，雨果故居与现在周围的花园式住宅相比，自然显得有些寒酸，可150年前这座砖木结构二层建筑能算得上是渔村里的豪宅了。故居的装潢相当考究，屋内有柚木墙板、壁炉、地毯、玻璃吊灯等，墙上还挂着水彩画和素描。据说雨果还是一个多产的画家，仅仅在泽西暂居的三年多时间里，就画了二三百幅油画，除油画外故居墙上还挂有雨果的单人照片、合家欢等照片。雨果的儿子查理达是个摄影爱好者，当时家里的照片都是查理达拍的。
虽说雨果到泽西的身份是个政治流亡者，可他毕竟是出身于贵族的名人，要比岛上的原住民富裕得多，所以凡逢年过节或遇到自然灾难，他全家便出动进行救济，岛上许多孤儿寡老都得到过他的帮助。
圣海力港与庞道酒店
从雨果故居沿海滩向南步行20分钟左右，翻过一个略有坡度的高地公园，就能见到一个巨大U字形的港湾，这就是泽西最大的港口――圣海力港。港内除了停放的数百艘游艇外，还有豪华型的白色渡轮，大小不一的货船和硕大的邮轮。
紧靠港湾的是个大广场，7尊雕塑铜像安放在左角。2005年6月6日，英国伊丽莎白女王为庆祝反法西斯胜利60周年，还特地赶到这里发表演说。
大广场北面有一幢19世纪初建造的博物馆。这里可以看到泽西的历史变迁、民俗民风、出土文物和名人遗迹等。在一张半人高的茶几上，平放着一本8开本的册子，着重介绍了雨果流亡到泽西的生活情况，由此可想而知，泽西人对雨果流亡到泽西这段历史是十分看重的，他们把它当作泽西人的光荣。
据史载，雨果是在比利时的布鲁塞尔乘船直接抵达泽西，在圣海力港登岸。1852年8月5日下午，圣海力港码头人山人海，泽西人夹道欢迎这位流亡者的到来。
雨果在泽西的第一夜住在大广场的庞道酒店。现任庞道酒店的经理尼科拉斯先生介绍说，当年雨果住在酒店二楼的205号房间，酒店老板及泽西名流还设宴招待了雨果一行。
雨果逝世后，当地人为了纪念雨果，还塑了一个他的铜像竖立在根西凯悌公园。
圣达克教堂与《惩罚集》
雨果故居不远的山丘上，有一座12世纪建造的圣达克教堂，雨果心绪好的时候会到圣达克教堂去做礼拜，并与神父促膝谈心。这座教堂用岛上火红色的花岗岩砌成，十分原始古朴，面积约25平方米，只能容纳十来个人做礼拜。
教堂内有色彩醒目的壁画，画的都是圣经上的故事。在圣像下除了讲经台上摆着圣经外，白墙的凹进处还摆放着许多一寸高的白蜡烛，使教徒或参观者随意取用。
雨果是被法国动荡的政治漩涡撞伤的人，他对圣达克教堂那种古朴、宁静、稳定的氛围极为赞赏。他关注法国革命，但此时已无法施展才能，只有继续拿起笔来勤奋写作，他在泽西用了10个月的时间写成6200句的一首长诗，取名《惩罚集》，这是雨果在泽西唯一的作品。
Victor Hugo’s Exile on Jersey Island
Last summer I visited relatives in Jersey, an island in the English Channel between Britain and France. The bay community where my relatives resided is exactly where Victor Hugo (1802-1885) lived in political exile more than 150 years ago. I decided to pay a pilgrimage visit to the writer’s former residence. After all, I had read his major works such as The Hunchback of Notre Dame (1831) and Les Miseables (1862). I borrowed a map of Jersey in English, carried a backpack and began my pilgrimage.
Jersey is proud of Hugo, a world-class big name who lived long on the island. On the beach in front of the residence stands a white jade monument in commemoration of Hugo’s three-year exile there from August, 1852 to October, 1855. Victor Hugo’s name is carved in intaglio.
Hugo participated in the 1848 French Revolution against the violence and tyranny of Napoleon III. After the revolution failed, he was ordered to leave France. The writer did not go to London or New York but chose the English Channel island of Jersey, for residents there spoke French and the island was only 36 sea miles from Normandy, France.
About 100 meters away from the monument stands the former residence. Compared with the surrounding garden-like houses, the residence looked a little bit shabby today. But 150 years ago the two-story wooden and brick house looked like a palace in the fishing village. The furniture and decoration inside revealed the luxury of yesterday: teak wall panels, fireplace, carpet, crystal chandelier, watercolors and sketches. It is said that Victor Hugo was a prolific painter. He painted about 300 oils on the island during his 3-year exile. Also in the house are photographs taken then, many of them by Victor Hugo’s son who was a photograph enthusiast.
Though a political exile on the island, Hugo was a celebrity from a noble family after all and he led a comfortable life there. On holidays or when a natural disaster struck, he and his family would deliver relief and offer help to local residents.
A 20-minute walk to the south of the residence and led me to a U-shaped harbor after passing a park. This is St. Heller Harbor, the largest one on the island. I saw hundreds of yachts moored there, a sumptuous white ferryboat, cargo ships and a giant passenger liner. Close to the harbor spread a large square, where Queen Elizabeth made a speech in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the victory of World War II on June 6, 2005.
The harbor was exactly where Hugo landed on the island 153 years ago. He sailed from Brussels, Belgium directly to Jersey. On the afternoon of August 5, 1852, island residents flocked to St. Heller Harbor to welcome the writer. And the local celebrities held a banquet to entertain him at a hotel there. The manager of Pomme D’or hotel proudly showed me the records of that time: Huge spent his first night on the island in room 205.
Hugo’s residence on the edge of St Helier was close to a Parish Church built in the 12th century. Hugo went there now and then when the weather was fine. It was during his stay on the island that Hugo spent 10 months writing his best known works of poetry, 6,200-line “Les Chatiments”(Punishments), which was published in 1853.
After Hugo passed away, Jersey islanders erected a bronze statue in a park in his honor.
(Translated by David)