苏黎世的秋天

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I was 1)pedaling my bike along the River Limmat. It was autumn here in Zürich, and the tall trees on both sides of the road had 2)donned the rich colors of the season. I passed a woman sitting in the grass, reading a novel. Then a man in a business suit 3)zoomed past on a 4)scooter, a smile on his face as he headed to destinations unknown.

Further down, a group of children were playing along the river bank, calling to each other in the German 5)dialect that is found here in Zürich. I struggled to understand their words. Even though I speak German, the Swiss have dozens of dialects, and each one is different.

Zürich enjoys a beautiful location on the edge of Lake Zürich, with the Alps rising nearby. The River Limmat 6)winds through town, dividing the city in half. Colorful 7)window boxes 8)adorn the brick apartment buildings, while further out in the suburbs, many homes have small gardens, with 9)nary a weed or plant out of place.

With 365,000 10)residents and almost a million people in the surrounds, Zürich is the country’s biggest city. Although the city’s roots go back to 15 BC, it wasn’t until 1848 that the 11)cantons of Switzerland united in 12)confederation. Today, Zürich is a world-class, international destination. The arrival of 13)immigration has changed the city’s face. It’s common to find Chinese or Lebanese 14)cuisine for offer next to a Swiss restaurant selling traditional food.

Once known as a banking and business center, the city has slowly reinvented itself. The best evidence can be found in Züri West (West Zürich). It used to be a 15)manufacturing area, and has been transformed into a place of fashionable restaurants, shops and apartments.

I parked my bike at the Schiffbau, a former boat-manufacturing 16)facility that is now one of the hottest places in town. It was still early morning, and I wandered past La Salle Restaurant, where people were laying white 17)linens on the tables. Then, I pedaled over to the former Löwenbrau 18)brewery plant, which now houses five art galleries and three museums.

19)Zipping around Zürich by bicycle is enjoyable, and it’s a good idea, since parking spaces are hard to come by. There are many bike lanes along the wide, clean streets. For a 20)refundable 21)deposit of CHF 20 (about US$16), visitors can get a bike for free at the bike station behind the Hauptbahnhof (main train station).

The city’s best shopping can be found in the area south of the train station, which offers plenty of treasures, from high-end designer clothing to the world’s best watches. Switzerland is not part of the European Union, and it seems to have higher prices than many other places in Europe. At times, the prices can be shocking, such as having to pay US$11 for two small bottles of water.

Old Town注1, a 22)pedestrian-only zone not far from the Hauptbahnhof, is filled with winding 23)cobblestone 24)alleys, ancient churches and centuries of history. 25)Frescoes adorn many of the 16th- and 17th-century houses. The famous St. Peter’s Church has one of the biggest clocks in Europe, its tower dating back to the 13th century. St. Peterhofstatt, the romantic square in front of the church, is a nice place to relax. And if you get thirsty, you can 26)slake your thirst at the nearby fountain. Zürich has more than 1,100 fountains, each

offering clean drinking water.

Nearby, Fraumünster, a 13th-century church, is best known for its stained-glass windows that were designed by the Russian artist Marc Chagall注2 in 1970.

There are many temptations in Zürich. The city has a 27)hopping night life. Most of the action can be found across the River Limmat in Niederdorf, where the narrow streets are filled with bars, clubs, restaurants and cinemas. Those wishing to relax with a drink can choose from wine bars to beer halls. The Swiss drink more wine than beer, since local wines are excellent.

Later, I boarded a 28)paddle boat for a two-hour ride across Lake Zürich to the village of Rapperswil. Lunch was served onboard. As I ate my thick bread and tomato soup, I enjoyed the view of cattle grazing on the hills, sailboats 29)scudding across the lake.

The small village looked as if it hasn’t changed much over the centuries. It was filled with beautifully kept homes dating to the Middle Ages. There was a castle with a tower on the hill.

Rapperswil is often called the “City of Roses,” as more than 1,600 blooms perfume the air from May through October. I saw plenty of the flowers climbing up the buildings as I wandered through town.

As I walked up the hill to the castle, the sun was

beginning to set. By the time I reached the peak, it 30)cast its last rays across the valley below, 31)stretching to the Glarner Alps注3

and across to the Zürich highlands. I climbed up onto the stone wall and sat, taking in the peaceful view. Then, slowly, I made my way down the lanes of Rapperswil, my shoes clicking on the ancient walkways.

我沿着利马特河骑自行车。苏黎世正值秋天，路两旁的高树都披上了这个季节丰富的色彩。我经过一个坐在草地上的女人，她正在看小说。随后，一名西装革履的男士骑着小型摩托车呼啸而过。他脸带微笑，正向未知的目的地驶去。

不远处，一群孩子正在河岸边嬉戏，用苏黎世当地的德语方言互相呼唤。我努力想听明白他们的话。虽然我懂德语，但瑞士人有很多方言，而且每种各不相同。

苏黎世位置优越，坐落在苏黎世湖边，附近就是高耸的阿尔卑斯山。利马特河蜿蜒穿过市中心，把整个城市分成两半。五颜六色的窗台花箱点缀着用砖砌成的公寓；而在远些的市郊，许多住家都有小花园，一草一木布置得恰到好处。

苏黎世有36.5万居民，周边地区住着近一百万人，是这个国家最大的城市。虽然这个城市的历史可以追溯到公元前15年，但一直到1848年，瑞士的各个行政区才统一起来，组成联邦。今天，苏黎世已经是一个世界级的国际旅游目的地。移民的到来改变了这个城市的面貌。在售卖传统瑞士食物的餐厅旁，人们不难找到提供中国、黎巴嫩菜肴的地方。

这个昔日的银行业和商业中心正在慢慢改变自己。Züri West（苏黎世西区）就是最好的证明。这里以前是一个工业区，现在被改造成时髦餐厅、商店和公寓的集中地。

我把自行车停在Schiffbau―这里曾经是一个造船厂，如今变成了镇上最热门的地点之一。现在还是清晨，我漫步经过La Salle餐厅，人们正在给餐桌铺上白色的亚麻布。然后我骑车到了原来的Löwenbrau酿酒厂―现在这里是五间画廊和三所博物馆的所在地。

骑自行车畅游苏黎世是一件惬意的事，也是一个很不错的主意，因为在这里很难找到停车的地方。干净宽阔的马路上有许多自行车道。你只要付20瑞士法郎（约16美元）押金就可以在

Hauptbahnhof（中央火车站）后面的自行车站免费租用自行车。

火车站南边一带是市内最好的购物点。从高级设计师的服装到世界上最好的手表，那里提供的珍奇宝贝应有尽有。瑞士不是欧盟成员国，其物价似乎比欧洲其它很多地方要高。有时候那价格实在高得吓人，例如买两小瓶水就要花掉你11美元。

Hauptbahnhof附近不远的旧城是一个步行区。那里有弯弯曲曲的鹅卵石小径、古老的教堂，保存着数个世纪的历史痕迹。很多16、17世纪的房子都有壁画装饰。著名的圣彼得教堂上的钟盘是欧洲最大的钟盘之一，钟楼可追溯至13世纪。教堂前面浪漫的St. Peterhofstatt广场是供人休息放松的好地方。如果渴了，你可以在附近的喷泉缓解渴意。苏黎世有超过1100座喷泉，每座都提供干净的饮用水。

（圣彼得教堂）附近就是圣母大教堂。这是一座13世纪的教堂，以其彩色玻璃窗最负盛名，由俄罗斯画家马克・夏卡尔于1970年设计。

苏黎世充满诱惑，其夜生活更是热闹缤纷。大多数消遣活动可以在利马特河另一边的下村找到。在那里，狭窄的道路上开满了酒吧、俱乐部、餐厅和电影院。想喝两杯放松的人可以选择去提供葡萄酒的酒吧或啤酒廊。瑞士人喝葡萄酒比喝啤酒多，因为当地的葡萄酒品质一流。

随后，我坐上一条明轮船，开始了从苏黎世湖到拉珀斯维尔村的两小时漫游。船上供应午餐。在享用厚面包和西红柿汤的同时，我欣赏着眼前的美景：山上的牛群正在吃草，帆船在湖面飞掠而过。

尽管历经数个世纪，这个小村庄仿佛没怎么改变，到处都是保存完好的中世纪楼房。山上还有一座带有塔楼的城堡。

拉珀斯维尔常常被称为“玫瑰之城”，因为每年从5月到10月，超过1600朵花所发出的香气会把整个村庄笼罩起来。当我徜徉在村庄之时，我还看到许多花朵爬满了建筑物。

我上山前往城堡的时候，太阳开始下山。当我到达山顶时，夕阳的最后一丝光芒洒落在下面的山谷，一直延伸到Glarner Alps，跨越整个苏黎世高地。我爬上石墙坐下，欣赏着眼前宁静的景色。而后，我慢慢地沿着拉珀斯维尔的小路下山，鞋子不停地敲打着古老的走道。