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畲乡大千古情

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畲乡景宁的旅游胜地大,在创建4A景区时面貌焕然一新。游客接待中心、游步道、整治后的小溪、小桥流水、农家小院,使得原本就恬淡、空气清新的自然景观,更增添了高山特色的韵味,不愧为具有畲乡风味的避暑胜地。

畲乡大出现了跨越式的新农村景象,与原有的自然景观和宋代建筑有机地结合在一起,呈现出既古朴、原始而又有现代意味的意境。古树、石墙围绕着的时思寺,最具历史性的古寺庙让人难以释怀,需要细细解读,似乎每一段历史的风云起伏都写进了古寺这些精雕细刻的斗拱中!

时思寺始建于宋绍兴十年,原名“时思院”。明洪武元年诚意伯刘基书额“时思道场”,宣德元年改院为寺。因地处高山僻壤,整个寺庙至今保存着宋代建筑,这在全国也是罕见的。2001年时思寺经批准为国家文物保护单位。

时思寺占地面积1193平方米,集大雄宝殿、三清殿、心经钟楼、马仙宫、三门等古建筑群,展示了集艺术、智慧、思想、道义于一体的古建筑风貌。有人说它是一本史书,有人说它是一酝陈酿,更有人说它是一座丰碑,不论怎么比拟,说它是一首史诗是无疑的。它承载着畲乡在历史的长河中修炼成独具魅力的风景,见证了这里的人们繁衍生息的风云变幻。

“层峦远上最高山,十里平畴碧几湾。隐隐寺藏红树里,沉沉钟出白云间。青缠墙壁藤萝古,翠映峰门松柏间。翘见时思题额在,文成遗墨快檐攀。”清代儒士严用光写下形象逼真的诗篇歌颂时思寺。时思寺的魅力不仅仅是它独具一格的宋代建筑风貌,还在于它有生动的历史故事,因而显得更为神秘。

据传,一位名叫梅元的孩童,祖父亡故,他就在墓边虔诚地守孝,历时长达三年之久。父亲见此,在墓旁搭起草庵备其守孝。当时的府县闻此,感动至深,上奏朝廷,宋高宗皇帝下发批文,遂赐金帛,封为“孝童”,并为庵门题额“时思院”,时思寺由此而得名。

一年四季,古寺随着这里气候的变换演映出一幅幅美丽生动的山水画卷,确切地印证了“千载人文诗、万卷生态画”的自然景观。笔者最喜欢冬天里的时思寺,喜欢在雪里寻找那一抹安静。记得那年雪后,古寺一如晶莹的冰雕,平日飞檐翘角的寺庙显得很宁静,时思古刹建筑群,在雪中静默着,缓缓讲述着宋朝年间那位年仅七岁的“孝童”故事。名闻遐迩的千年柳杉王披雪挂冰,默默记录着大800多年的历史变迁和风云变幻。千年柳杉王树心已成空洞,在树洞里足足可以放一张八仙桌,再坐八个人,可见树身之大。这是浙江省最大的柳杉树,比西天目山的“大树王”还要大。那次笔者在寺边、在柳杉树下,足足待了一上午,仿佛心灵得到了一次最好的洗礼......

大雄宝殿内,微风轻拂,古松发出沙沙的响声,流淌出一种古寺如泣如诉的情调。建筑风貌依旧的古寺,在雪后观赏更让人陶醉,柳杉掩映分外妖娆、迷人。它的文化积淀是极其深厚悠远的,走进古寺一如走进水墨画里的一撇一捺。一座建筑是人类生活形态的表现,当艺术积淀到了一定的厚度,其绽放出来的就不仅仅是艳丽与高雅了。

如果说古寺是一支歌,那饱经沧桑的飞檐碧瓦就是那不变的音符。它历练、凝重、内敛,亦独具风采,为这里的人们留下了一座值得炫耀的文化遗迹,是大人文浓墨重彩的一笔精神财富。

时思寺寺门两株一竖一卧的几百年的“龙柏”,在雪后的寺门前银装素裹,显得特别美丽,与古寺交相辉映。两株古树似忠实的卫士一直守护着古寺,增添了一种自然而淡雅的美。

走进畲乡大就是走进了一方古老与现代合理布局的高山村落。随处可见的农家乐,起的名也是具有乡土风味:“老梅家”“三亩地”“ 半丘田”等等。落脚就可随便点几个农家菜的干净小院,无疑是休闲、放松的最佳去处。高山是原始的,乡民是憨厚的,民风是淳朴的,到大如同回到远古一样,享受着古风古情。

如果是冬天到了大,雪域的大就显得更加的迷人,冷就冷得刺骨,但雪后微微有点阳光透过高高的古树一闪一闪的,照射着古寺,照射着游人惊奇的面孔,古寺一夜间可以成为多彩的另一番世界。它的美带着它的灵动亦如这一成不变的格局,无尽的风雅、深厚的文化内涵都随着建筑本身一同折射了出来。

“千载人文诗,万卷生态画”。大有着永远写不完的故事。时思寺、雪花、柳杉王、石马潜渡、廊桥、小佐古建筑群等等景点,都是需要仔细研读的畲乡诗篇!

A Summer Resort in Ethnic Minority Habitat

By Yan Lingzhu

Daji is a summer resort nestled away in Jingning, a mountainous county in southern Zhejiang Province. About 40 kilometers away from the county seat, Daji sits in an alpine basin at an altitude of more than 1,600 meters above sea level flanked by towering peaks that look like ladders soaring and disappearing into the heaven.

Now an AAAA scenic zone, Daji features a bubbling stream, a booming waterfall, ancient stone bridges, and cottages. The waterfall falls for 70 meters and in three stages. The widest part measures 25 meters wide and the narrowest 8 meters. In the high water period, the waterfall booms as it splashes down, making deafening noises and creating a mist as tall as 200 meters. In dry season, the waterfall is tender and the mist scatters like snow flakes.

The defining centerpiece of Daji as a unique tourist attraction, however, is not the spectacular waterfall. It is the Shisi Temple, a precious prototype of architecture of the Song Dynasty (960-1279). The temple was first built in 1140. In 1368, the structure morphed into an academy and in 1426, it officially became a religious sanctuary. As the location is far away from anywhere, the wood architecture of the Song remains intact and it is a rare phenomenon in China. It is a cultural relic under national protection since 2001.

The temple stands in a 1,193-square-meter compound with a number of halls. The temple in the name may be a little bit misleading as the temple compound displays a number of different religious components. It has a hall for Buddhism and a hall for Taoism. Yet in another hall, a local legendary woman is worshiped as a goddess. The fourth major structure in the temple is a memorial house of the Mei clan. The temple is never a destination for pilgrims. It is a sanctuary for the faithful to stay and contemplate the metaphysics of their chosen faith. Scholars see the messages of art, wisdom, ideology and morality in the architecture. Some describe it as a book of history, a monument, a jar of vintage wine, and an epic.

The temple originated with a seven-year-old boy who missed his deceased grandfather so much that he lived by the tomb for three years. In order to make the mourning easy, the father built a thatched hut for the boy. The county magistrate reported the piety of the boy to the court. The emperor gave the boy a title and named the hut Shisi Compound.

In front of the temple gate are two ancient trees, which local people call “Dragon Firs”, one towering and one hanging low above the ground. They add a touch to the grace of the ancient temple. On a hill slope east to the temple towers a 1,500-year-old Cedar. It was 47 meters tall and now it stands at 28 meters tall due to a lightening that struck the cedar and snapped it and cut it shorter. The diameter of the trunk measures 4.47 meters. The trunk of the giant tree has hollowed. Now you can put a square table inside the hollow trunk and eight people can sit around it. In 2001, someone concluded that it was the world’s oldest of its species.

The temple is only part of the breathtaking beauty that is Daji. Daji maintains its altitude and ancient charms whereas displaying some new aspects of modernization in the village huddled in the basin. Around the basin are many scenic spots with poetic names. Woods in surrounding peaks change colors in spectacular ways as seasons slowly evolve. Some ancient residential houses can be seen in the village. Nowadays, many households double as restaurants and inns and give visitors boarding and meals.