品味托斯卡纳
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在意大利,风景如画的地方比比皆是,例如托斯卡纳就以其美丽的风景和丰富的艺术遗产著称。
托斯卡纳是位于意大利中部的一个大区,看过《托斯卡纳艳阳下》(Under the Tuscan Sun, 2003)的人一定会被那里的景色吸引。要好好品味托斯卡纳,你绝对不能错过首府佛罗伦萨。佛罗伦萨被认为是文艺复兴运动的诞生地,拥有众多历史建筑和藏品丰富的博物馆(如乌菲兹美术馆)。不过,热门景点肯定挤满游客,如果你想避开人群,体验真正的意大利生活,不如像本文作者那样参加当地的美食和语言课程。在享受烹饪乐趣的同时还可以学习一门新语言哦!
In September, my husband and I spent two weeks in Florence one of the most pleasant times of the year to visit one of the most beautiful places in the world learning about Italy in a way that I highly 1)recommend. In the Centro Koine program “Pane, Vino, e Lingua” (Italian for Bread, Wine, and Language), the 2)emphasis is on 3)sensual Italy.
Koine operates PVL in 4)conjunction with a wine bar on the ground floor of the Palazzo Borghese,
a 16th century palace in the center of old Florence that also houses the language school.
Each day began with a 4-hour language class. Neither of us knew much more than musical terms, so we knew we’d be starting 5)from scratch. Luckily, Koine has 20-plus years of experience in teaching newbies, and it shows. I have taken many intensive language courses, but I have never encountered a better method for teaching beginners.
We dived headlong into language classes 6)peppered with real-life 7)applications. On the first day, the teachers took us on a tour of Florence. Knowing that we would have 8)ample opportunity to explore the tourist sites, they took us instead to places we would actually need to find the post office, the 9)pharmacy, the market and taught us the survival words to function there. Another morning,our highly 10)enthusiastic teacher, Cosetta, took us to the market for a 11)scavenger hunt forcing us to find out what 12)produce was in season and so on. All the while, we were forced to interact with regular Italians the key for building skills and confidence.
That emphasis on 13)immersion continued in the cooking classes, held in the afternoon. On our first day, we accompanied our teacher, Lucia, around Florence to learn the best place to buy the 14)staples. As we walked, she shared the secrets that only a lifelong Florentine would know the best 15)gelato, the best pizza, the best cooking supplies. We felt like VIPs.
The school teaches the culture through the 16)cuisine, so with every dish we prepared, Lucia offered the history and secrets of the preparation and 17)ingredients in Italian
and English. She also made sure that we kept busy cooking,
while she passed along 18)gems of Italian 19)slang and kitchen know-how. We made dishes ranging from a classic spicy tomato sauce to 20)Tripe Florentine to 21)tiramisu. And we got to eat everything we cooked, with wine that had been hand-picked to 22)complement the dishes.
Marriage of Food and Wine
Wally, a 23)sommelier, held forth on two afternoons (in Italian) on the elements of wine: what to look, smell, and taste for in a range of Italian wines. Perhaps more importantly, she taught us the importance of thinking about the wine before the food. In order to make the food and the wine taste their best, the menu must be developed 24)in concert.
On a full-day 25)excursion to a small vineyard, we got to see the whole operation, from the vineyards to the cellars, and taste the results with the 26)proprietor.
The final level of immersion was living with an Italian family in a residential section of the city. Our homestay host offered us a large room in a beautiful flat near the Fortezza da Basso. While it was within walking distance of the school, we found that renting bicycles was more
27)convenient and fun for getting around.
By the end of the two weeks, we were able to communicate basic needs and understand a great deal more than that, plus we had 28)recipes and wine sense enough to host excellent dinner parties for years to come. Most importantly, we are now able to say with confidence that we experienced a small 29)slice of real Italian life…that definitely left us hungry for more.
九月,丈夫和我到佛罗伦萨待了两个星期――要游览世界上最美丽的地方之一,此时正是一年中最合宜的时节。我强烈推荐以这种方式了解意大利。
科伊尼中心的“Pane, Vino, e Lingua”(意大利语,意为:面包,酒和语言)课程强调的是用感官去体验意大利。
科伊尼中心的PVL课程在博尔盖塞宫殿的底层授课――该层还经营着一家葡萄酒吧。这是一座建于16世纪、位于佛罗伦萨旧区中心的宫殿,也是这所语言学校的所在地。
每天的第一件事就是上一堂4小时的语言课。我们对意大利语的了解几乎仅止于音乐术语,所以我们知道自己必须从零开始。幸运的是,科伊尼拥有二十多年教授菜鸟学习意大利语的经验,果然名不虚传。以前我也上过很多种语言强化课程,但从来没见过比这里更适合教初学者的方法。
我们一头扎进加插了实际应用环节的语言课里。第一天,老师带着我们进行了一趟佛罗伦萨游。他们知道我们有很多机会去探索旅游景点,因此把我们带去一些外出必须知道的地方,像邮局、药房和市场等,然后教我们在那些地方用得上的基本语言。另一天早上,我们热情高涨的科塞塔老师带着我们去市场“寻宝”――要我们找出什么是当令的农产品等等。因此我们老是不得不和当地的普通意大利人打交道,而这正是培养语言技巧和树立信心的关键。
在下午进行的烹饪课也延续了这种浸泡式的训练风格。第一天,我们陪着卢西娅老师在佛罗伦萨到处寻找采购主食的最佳地点。她一边走一边和我们分享只有土生土长的佛罗伦萨人才知道的秘密――比如最好的意大利冰淇淋、最好的比萨饼和最好的烹调用品等等,我们感觉自己仿佛成了贵宾。
这所学校通过烹饪课传授意大利文化,所以在我们做每一道菜时,卢西娅都会用意大利语和英语讲解这道菜及其材料的历史,以及背后的故事。她一边讲解意大利的俚语和烹饪知识,一边确保我们没有停下手中的工作。我们做的菜既有经典的香辣番茄沙司、佛罗伦萨牛杂,也有提拉米苏。最后我们要享用自己做的美食,配上精选的葡萄酒,让佳肴锦上添花。
食物与酒的结合
侍酒师瓦利用两个下午(用意大利语)给我们讲解了葡萄酒的元素,包括如何看、闻和品尝一系列意大利葡萄酒。也许更重要的是,她教我们要先想好喝什么酒,再考虑食物。为了令食物和酒都能展现出最佳味道,菜单必须一起制定。
有一次,我们花了一整天去一个小葡萄园远足,有机会看到了从葡萄园到酒窖的整个酿酒操作流程,最后还和酒庄主人一起品尝酝酿的成果。
这种浸泡式语言训练的最后一个阶段是在佛罗伦萨住宅区的一个意大利家庭寄宿。主人为我们安排了一个大房间,就在巴索城堡附近一栋漂亮的公寓里。虽然住处离学校不远,可以走路过去,但我们发现租单车出行更方便,也更有趣。
两个星期结束时,我们已经可以表达一些基本的需要,也能听懂更多的内容。我们还培养起一定的烹饪和品酒基础,足以让我们以后举办出色的宴会。最重要的是,我们现在可以满怀信心地说自己已经体验过意大利真实生活的一点儿滋味……而这当然让我们渴望体验更多。