“大树王国”西天目

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天目山以树而名，踏进这片由1000余公顷森林构成的植物王国，幽幽古木遮天铺地，排排绿浪扑面而来。这里萃集着2160余种植物，其中以“天目”命名的37种，列为国家保护的35种。这方80年代以前就是浙江省“独生子”的国家级自然保护区，如今依然保持着原生态模样。

天目山的灵魂是树，当家树种首推柳杉。那一株株三四人才围得拢的巨木，像一尊尊卫士，守在路畔道旁，长在谷内峡中，威风凛凛，从山麓一直逶迤绵延到开山老殿。柳杉又名“千秋树”，一般都有千儿八百高龄。“狮子口”上方的“大树王”更是天目山的标志，相传清代乾隆皇帝游览此山时，曾解下御袍玉带围量过这棵树，并敕封它为“大树王”。谁知道皇帝的金口一开，这棵胸径2.40米的大树却遭受了厄运：树枝树桠被那些善男信女当作至宝随意掠夺，树皮树壳亦被作为“有病治病、无病健身”的良药剥蚀殆尽，于是这棵千年古杉由此惨死于距今70多年前的秋天。不过大树的继承者层出不穷，最魁伟的6号柳杉至今材积竟达81立方米之多！

高大雄健的野银杏称得上是植物界的“老古董”，它和1.7亿年以前的恐龙同时诞生，是种子植物中最为古老的孑遗树种。恐龙因经不起冰川严寒的袭击早已在地球上绝迹了，银杏大家族的其他成员也没能在第四纪冰川中熬过，先后被自然淘汰，唯有西天目山的野银杏饱经沧桑幸存下来，重新染绿于世界。走上山巅，当你看到盘生在“倒挂莲花峰”一隅的老、壮、青、少、幼“五世同堂”野银杏，你会领略“活化石”的，也一定会产生悠远而又浪漫的联想！

天目金钱松属世界五大庭院观赏树种之一，被誉为“天目骄子”；在海拔1000米的深山老林中，一批一批金钱松直冲云霄，最气派的那株竟有56米，比十层楼房还高，在同类树种中居世界之冠；还有被称为“地球独生子”的天目铁木以及名目繁多的天目杜鹃、天目领春木、天目夏腊梅等等，它们有的虬枝旺发，有的洒脱挺拔，有的婀娜多姿，使人目不暇接，流连忘返。

西天目是个大树王国，还是古代宗教名山，西汉时即有道人在此修炼，被誉为道教大宗的张道陵就出生于天目山，山上至今留有“张公舍”的遗迹；在天目山还可寻觅得到晋代炼丹术士葛洪的遗踪，至于天目山的佛事兴起，则始于晋代，后又为临济正宗中兴之地，建于宋末元初开山老殿的正宗神寺，历代累积寺院庵堂50多座，最盛时僧侣多达1000余人。山麓那掩映于柳杉林中的禅源寺，则建于清代康熙四年，300多年过去了，尽管其主体部分于1941年4月15日被日本侵略者的飞机炸毁，但禅源寺那庄严的山门、那古色古香的天目殿、韦驮殿经历多次重建后，依然让人生出浓浓的思古之情……

A Kingdom of Huge Trees

By Yang Jusan

The Western Tianmu (Western Heavenly Eyes) Mountain, nearly 100 kilometers west of Hangzhou, the capital seat of eastern China’s coastal Zhejiang Province, is famed for its forest of aged-old huge trees. The mountain spreads over an area of 1,000 hectares where ancient but thriving trees tower and spread. According to scientists, of the 2,600 plus plant species seen there, 37 have Tianmu in their academic names and 35 are under the protection of the state government. Designated as a national nature reserve in the 1980s and the only one in the province for a long while, the mountain area has kept its primitive ecology intact.

Trees are the soul of the Western Heavenly Eyes. The huge Cryptomeria trees, the symbol of the mountain, look like heavenly guards that flank zigzagging paths and loom huge in precipitous valleys and on undulating slopes. According to folk legends, Emperor Qianlong (1711-1799) measured the perimeter of the thickest tree with his belt only to find that his belt was not long enough. The emperor named the tree ’King of Trees? Unfortunately, however, the royal tree, measured 2.4 meters in diameter, suffered a pathetic fate: those who wished to enjoy health and longevity tried to absorb the royal blessing from the tree. They began to steal barks, leaves, and twigs from the huge tree until the king did not have any bark left. The king of trees died more than 7 decades ago, after a long painful torturing over centuries. Fortunately, after the demise of the last king, a new king has succeeded to the throne in the Western Heavenly Eyes. It is so gigantic that some pragmatic and using-data-to-convey-vivid-messages killjoys calculate that this king is equal to 81 cubic meters of timber. According to them, none of the other trees in the mountain has that much of timber to offer.

Gingko trees in the mountain are the very antique left over from a period of 170 million years ago when dinosaurs were first roaming the wild planet. Dinosaurs disappeared but some seeds of the gingko trees in the Western Tianmu Mountain somehow managed to survive the Quaternary ice age. They geminated and by now, some seedlings have grown into the world’s oldest gingko trees.

Pseudolarix amabilis is another plant wonder in the Western Tianmu Mountain. One of the five major species of landscaping trees in the world, this special cypress flourishes in the forest at 1,000 meters above sea level in the Western Tianmu Mountain. The tallest one measures 56 meters in height, taller than a ten-storied building. It is said to be the tallest of the same species in the world.

The Western Tianmu Mountain is more than a kingdom of trees. It is a sacred place of religions. In the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD), some Taoists tried to seek nature’s help in this mountain in order to find a way to become immortal. Zhang Daoling, a sect leader of Taoism, was born in the Tianmu Mountain. Buddhism began to flourish here during the Jin Dynasty (265-420). Over centuries, more than 50 temples came and went. The most flourishing period saw over 1,000 monks reside there. The Chenyuan Temple, nestled against the woods of towering Cryptomeria at the foot of the mountain, was first built in the 4th year of Emperor Kangxi (1654-1722) of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It is more than 300 years old now.

(Translated by David)