八百年圆圣山一梦

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两次去法国，亲友们屡屡提醒：“来巴黎不去圣山一看不算及格。”今年希腊归来，特地再飞巴黎，以一睹倾慕已久的圣山风采。

圣米歇尔山，原被渔民叫作冻白岛，是一座花岗岩小山，耸立在法国北部诺曼底和布列塔尼之间的海面上。直径只有1080米，距巴黎300多公里。此岛早先并不著名，后因欧洲中古世纪宗教热潮中主教大人的一个梦，竟使教民们为之狂热奉献，延续修建八百年，这个无名荒岛变成了震惊世界的旅游文化名珠，并被联合国教科文组织第一批列入世界遗产名录，每年吸引的各国游客达400万之众！

据传公元五世纪在天主教教义中，人们对打败象征魔鬼的恶龙之神圣米歇尔崇拜已蔓延至西欧，公元492年意大利的卡岗山建了宏伟的圣米歇尔神殿，人们争相祭拜。到了公元708年春，法兰西北部阿弗朗什教区的欧贝尔主教，夜里突然梦见金光闪耀的圣米歇尔天使，天使指示他必须在刚被海浪冲来的一堆岩石上修造一座祈祷堂。一梦醒来，主教不解其意；在第二次梦中，圣米歇尔又叮嘱主教赶快修建，主教醒来赶往海边一看，只见海天茫茫，白浪翻飞，仍茫然不知何处可建祈祷堂；第三次，主教梦见圣米歇尔天使身披金黄盔甲严厉问他为何还不动手？并用手指在主教脑门上狠狠一点，竟然将脑门点出一个小洞。主教痛醒，大汗淋漓，急带部属赶到海边，只见海浪中涌出一座白色石山，至此他恍然大悟，立马精心组织力量，征集船只建造圣米歇尔神殿。据说，为纪念欧贝尔主教创建圣山的大功，信徒们珍藏着留有天使指印的欧贝尔主教头盖骨，至今还放在阿弗朗什的圣维杰珍宝室供人们瞻仰。我们在圣米歇尔修道院的峭壁所凿的彩色岩画上，看到主教画像头上特意标明的一个黑点，那色调、光线及气氛，吸引着无数游客虔诚礼拜。

在修建这座圣山时，无数的教士和工匠，将多勒山（Mont――Dol）及海外休塞（Chausey）群岛出产的优质花岗岩一块块渡海运来并顺着新开的石径一步一步拉上山顶，众多的建筑师、艺术家在这些极其坚硬的巨石上敲凿、雕刻和打磨。经过40多代人艰苦卓绝的努力，直到16世纪，这个神殿即后来全称为圣米歇尔修道院的宏伟工程才基本完工。

圣米歇尔修道院高高地耸立在大海中的山峰上，它的周围筑有众多的附属教堂，顶上建有高达32米的钟楼，钟楼尖顶再托起8米高的金碧辉煌的圣米歇尔天使金像：他左手提天平，右手高举宝剑，在蓝天碧海中千百年来神光四射！修道院整个建筑上下高度竟然高出小岛本身海拔的两倍，成为人类建筑史上的一个奇迹。法国信众常以崇拜的口气赞叹：欧贝尔主教的一场梦，让信徒和艺术大师们足足辛劳了八百年，以八百年代价换来法兰西民族的荣耀，换来对人类文化历史的贡献，这个代价，值！

我们乘车越过库埃斯农河，老远就看见碧海中浮现着一个极精致的“盆景”――圣米歇尔山。山上修道院的钟楼直指蓝天，那座反射出强烈光芒的神像，就是米歇尔圣像。不想车子开过拉卡塞尔纳水坝却进不了停车场，因为那里全被数以万计的各种车辆塞满了！于是我们只得将车停在路边，徒步向山麓走去。走过大堤吊桥，一进山门便见绕山海边筑有两层坚固的岩石城墙，外有巨炮，中有工事，上有垛眼，内有暗堡，形成一个严密的防御体系。原来这是在英法百年战争中修筑的，当时法国民众以保卫圣山为荣，许多人率妻儿来此志愿参战，其中最为人称道的是119名法国骑士隐蔽在修道院内，他们依托石墙与炮楼，抵抗英军达24年之久！久攻不下的英军指挥官最后长叹：法国人有天使护佑！进入厚实的石墙，穿过城门，迎面便是狭窄而漂亮的街道。沿街有林立的店铺，洁雅的宾馆，多彩的餐厅和专门介绍圣米歇尔山的四家艺术馆和博物馆等等。这些以岩石、花木、房舍、围墙、城堡店铺和修道院组成的中世纪建筑群，将大自然的巧妙和人类智慧、毅力以及文明系于一身，它所展现出来的凝重和神奇，竟然胜过凡尔赛宫的金碧辉煌、埃菲尔铁塔的宏伟壮观、卢浮宫的绚丽多彩、香榭丽舍的缤纷繁华。

在参观修道院中，最感到惊讶的是修道院的大教堂圣坛，圣坛的下层用巨大的石柱撑起了三座小教堂，它们分别以勃隆、圣马下、圣母命名，在圣母小教堂里，有30支巨大的白蜡烛终年长燃不息。这些小教堂从外观上看它好像低于地面，但步入其间你却感到先上后下，进入里面，它又让人弯来弯去，犹入迷宫。正因为其精、其巧、其妙，令许多游客极为赞赏，惊呼它是一座瑰丽的“世界奇楼”！

My Visit to Mount Saint-Michel

By Yi Fei

I have been to France twice. Every time before I went I was told by my friends, “You would have to visit Mount Saint-Michel to make your visit to Paris complete.?So I flew to Paris after my trip to Greek early this year and then visited the rocky islet situated more than 300 kilometers away from Paris to make my trip complete.

The granite islet is more than an architectural wonder. Towering between Normandy and Brittany, the mount is home to an abbey dedicated to the archangel St Michael.

Unknown as a desolate place since time immemorial, the islet first appeared in the dream of Aubert, Bishop of Avranches in one spring night of 708 AD. The bishop dreamed of St Michael in golden shining lights ordering him to build an abbey on a heap of white rocks just thrown up by the sea. The priest was slow to remember the dream. It was not until the third dream in which the angry archangel thrust a finger on his head and made a hole in his skull that the bishop remembered the dream. What appeared in three dreams became reality through a long time. It took more than 40 generations of disciples and artists a good 800 years to get the grand architectural miracle erected on the granitic islet.

All the building materials were transported from outside. Architects added one chapel after another. Additional monastic buildings were added gradually. The 32-meter-high bell tower was built and the 8-meter-tall statue of St Michael was added to the top later.

Shortly after crossing a river, I saw the Mount Saint Michael loom, looking like an exquisite bonsai. The spire pointed at the azure sky and the statue shone dazzlingly.As parking lot was full up to the capacity, I had to park at the roadside and walked. After crossing a suspension bridge and entering the gate, I saw two rocky defense walls facing the sea. The fortifications, mounted with cannons, include ramparts, towers and a barbican. The defense work was completed during the Hundred Years War between Britain and France. It is said that the French people thought it a great honor to defend the Mount St Michael. Some volunteers even brought their wives and kids to join the defense. The most legendary soldiers were 119 knights holding the abbey against the English siege for twenty-four years.

Past the defense walls were narrow but neat streets flanked by shops and hotels, restaurants, galleries and museums. All the buildings there emitted a medieval glory, embodying the architectural wisdom, dedication, and civilization. For a moment, I believed the wonder of the abbey looked convincingly better than the magnificence of Versailles Palace, Eiffel Tower, Louvre and Champs-Elysees.

(Translated by David)