老舍茶馆与大佛龙井茶缘
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随着一声京味十足的吆喝声：“欢迎――楼上请，您呐!”2005年4月28日晚，北京老舍茶馆迎来了海峡对岸的贵客，时任中国主席的连战携夫人和部分大陆访问团团员数十人来到茶馆品茶听戏。
是日晚，老舍茶馆充满了迎宾的喜庆气氛。茶馆1000平方米演出大厅红灯高挂，黑褐色八仙桌上摆放着黄白花纹的细瓷盖碗，身着长袍马褂和旗袍的服务员来回穿梭，这里虽是古色古香的道地茶馆，但茶馆内的雕花屏风、京剧脸谱、古乐编钟，则让人觉得它犹如一座民俗博物馆。贵宾们在这里品上好名茶、赏古风国粹，个个脸上洋溢着喜悦之色。当服务员首先为连战等客人斟上了千元一斤的大佛龙井茶时，老舍茶馆总经理尹智君说：“这是老北京最喜欢品尝的茶。”
谈到连战一行在老舍茶馆品尝大佛龙井的情形，茶馆一位服务员回忆说，连战先生落座老舍茶馆后，她便向连战先生介绍了大佛龙井名茶，尔后烫杯沏茶，顿时茗香四溢。连战先生品茶赏戏后，题了“振兴茶文化，祥和两岸情”，现场顿时响起一片掌声。
事后，当有记者问到为什么在无数名茶中选择产自浙江新昌的大佛龙井作为绿茶代表时，老舍茶馆总经理尹智君说：“经过多年的市场检验，大佛龙井茶以其色、香、味俱佳优异表现，征服了北京市民和国内外来宾。”
追溯新昌“大佛龙井”和老舍茶馆的茶缘，这与浙东名茶市场牵线搭桥密不可分的。茶叶界有一条不成文的规则，要想把茶叶卖向全国，就必须首先在北京、上海、广州等大城市打响。在这些大城市中，北京的重要性自不待言。京城的大小茶馆有五六百家，张一元、吴裕泰等老字号茶庄早已与西湖龙井合作，并有独家销售的约定，而当时大佛龙井一时还无法跨过其销售门槛，若要在北京城打响大佛龙井品牌，只能另辟蹊径。
然而当时他们没有想到的是，老舍茶馆此时也正在四处寻找绿茶的合作商。尽管北京人历来爱喝茉莉花茶，但随着生活水平、知识水平特别是保健意识的提高，许多北京人一改以往的饮茶习惯，开始纷纷喝起绿茶来。老舍茶馆顺应这一潮流，决定加大绿茶的供应，并在天南地北刻意选择色、香、形俱佳的上好绿茶。
2002年秋，老舍茶馆尹智君经理带队南下江苏探寻绿茶，到了镇江她听到一条重要信息，说是全国名茶浙江新昌的名气很大。随行的《中华合作时报》茶叶周刊记者安明霞，此时向她详细介绍了新昌的大佛龙井茶，于是尹智君一行临时改变行程来到新昌。浙东名茶市场办公室主任赵玉汀热情接待了北京客人，亲自陪同北京客人考察名茶市场和茶叶良种场，还游览了大佛寺。新昌优越的地理环境、繁荣兴旺的名茶交易和科学的制茶管理体系以及当地政府对大佛龙井茶的战略扶持，这一切让尹智君下了决心，她决意要在老舍茶馆“做大佛龙井茶这篇文章”，于是浙东名茶市场与老舍茶馆签订了协议，大佛龙井茶从此便源源不断地在老舍茶馆和顾客见了面。
老舍茶馆在北京可谓妇孺皆知，就是在国外知道这个字号的人也不少。老舍茶馆以其浓郁的“京味儿”，无可争议地成了北京这座六朝古都和国际大都市的一张“城市名片”，它是游客品茶的首选之地。浙江新昌大佛龙井茶能够与老舍茶馆合作，这就等于拿到了进入北京市场的金钥匙，于是2003年上半年，新昌县副县长徐良平和名茶市场赵主任一行赶赴北京来到老舍茶馆，对大佛龙井的销售进行磋商。
2004年4月又是春茶飘香时节，北京老舍茶馆与新昌大佛龙井携手举办了一个名为“老舍茶馆・大佛龙井茶文化节”茶事活动，“大佛龙井”开始在老舍茶馆隆重挂牌，这是新昌大佛龙井立足北京的正式宣言。不仅如此，新昌大佛龙井在北京的第一家形象店以及北京首个封闭四合院茶艺馆也同时在老舍茶馆二层开张营业。
为了让京城百姓了解大佛龙井茶的制作过程和品质，新昌浙东名茶市场还与有关单位配合，特意将连续两年荣获“大佛龙井茶王炒制大赛”状元称号的两位龙凤茶王请到北京现场炒茶，免费请市民品尝。从浙江空运过来的青叶被放置在光滑的特制铁锅中，经过大师一番“抖”、“搭”、“捺”、“抹”、“抓”、“扣”等十多道技术工艺，转眼就变成了扁平翠绿的大佛龙井，这让人们的眼睛亮了起来。紧接着，茶乡人民的“大佛龙井之春”文艺演出等活动一个接着一个推出，新昌与老舍茶馆的合作也更为紧密了。
茶得山川之胜而显风流，山川得茶之养而显人文神韵。产于高山云雾之中的大佛龙井茶品质超凡，色泽绿翠匀润，嫩香持久沁人，叶底细嫩成朵，是典型的高山风味。轻抿一口，你仿佛能听到那“江南第一大佛”寺中悠悠的暮鼓晨钟。现在，老舍茶馆在新昌县建立茶叶基地，严格把关茶叶的栽培和制作质量，以使每一位到老舍茶馆喝茶的人都能品尝到“大佛龙井”非凡的品质和韵味。北京人爱喝大佛龙井茶，大佛龙井也成了传播文化的使者：2003年7月14日塞尔维亚黑山共和国久卡诺维奇总理接受老舍茶馆赠送的大佛龙井礼盒；2003年8月29日尹智君又把大佛龙井作为馈赠礼物送给匈牙利总理迈杰西；2004年2月23日大佛龙井又成为送给苏里南总统费内西恩的礼物。
Giant Buddha Dragon Well Tea in Beijing
By Huang Zhiyi
The Laoshe Teahouse is a well known leisure hangout in Beijing. Even state guests often visit the teahouse to experience one of the Beijing's traditional delights. Nowadays Giant Buddha Dragon Well Tea is served at the teahouse. Actually, the green tea is not the Dragon Well Tea from the West Lake in Hangzhou. It is from Xinchang, a county in Zhejiang province, and named after the county's most famous cultural icon: Giant Buddha.
The bond between the teahouse and the tea brand was initially set up in 2002 and officially formed in 2004. The story behind the bond is interesting.
One of the unwritten laws for tea marketing in the country is that you must conquer the largest cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou before you can promote your tea across the country. Among the large cities, Beijing is particularly important and influential where there are about 600 teahouses.
By the time the Giant Buddha Dragon Well Tea marketing team began to promote the tea, some big names in Beijing's teahouses had had exclusive partnerships for West Lake Dragon Well Tea with producers in Hangzhou. But the team did not know that the Laoshe Teahouse, a heavy-weight player in the tea market in Beijing, was looking for a new partner of green tea. After decades, Beijing locals finally began to turn from jasmine tea to green tea. In order to cater to the changing trend, the teahouse determined to find a good green tea.
In the autumn of 2002, Yin Zhijun, general manager of the Laoshe Teahouse, led a team to tour the southern provinces in search of a green tea. They did not plan to visit Xinchang, for they had never heard of the green tea produced there. But a reporter recommended Xinchang to them and thus changed their visiting schedule.
The visit opened their eyes to Xinchang and enriched their knowledge of green tea. The visitors from Beijing were deeply impressed and encouraged by what they saw at the tea farms in the county's mountains, a flourishing tea marketplace, and a sound system adopted by the county government to promote the local product. An agreement was signed and the teahouse began to introduce the Giant Buddha Dragon Well Tea to its clients.
In April 2004, the Laoshe Teahouse and Xinchang jointly hosted a tea festival in Beijing, marking the official beginning of the partnership between the teahouse and the tea producer. In order to show Beijing residents how tea is made, two champion tea makers invited from Xinchang showed their art on the spot. Visitors saw for the first time in their lives how fresh tea leaves, airlifted from Zhejiang, were processed in a flat iron wok and turned into tea as can be seen in teashops.
Nowadays, the Laoshe Teahouse has their exclusive tea production bases in Xinchang and supervises the plantation and manufacturing quality to ensure that every client can enjoy the unusual quality and taste of the Giant Buddha Dragon Well Tea. Several foreign state leaders who visited the teahouse have received the tea as gifts.
(Translated by David)