李涛:守望老济南

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最能代表济南的胡同,就是芙蓉街了。最能代表济南的老街,也非芙蓉街莫属。穿越了千年历史的芙蓉街,堪称“最济南”的济南老街巷。如今,这条老街是济南最有生命力、最繁华也是最有韵味的一条街。

沿着古色古香、繁华而又悠长的芙蓉街,向深处走去,走到北头,就到了约600年历史的芙蓉街关帝庙。如今的芙蓉街关帝庙修缮一新,香火袅袅,为老芙蓉街赋予了新的内涵,让济南增添了更加充足的魅力。

于是,李涛――这个参与自费修缮了芙蓉街关帝庙的人,才终于得以放下漂泊的心,踏踏实实地坐在庙旁的“芙蓉茶馆”里,悠然地喝上一杯用清冽的泉水泡制的茶,打望沧桑而又熟悉的关帝庙、芙蓉街、老济南。他经常这样坐着,一坐就是一天。

李涛,一个地地道道的济南人,生于济南,长于济南,对济南的一草一木了然于心。“我就是在关帝庙附近长大的。”他喝着济南的泉水,喜欢济南,热爱济南,也眷恋济南。即便曾经离开济南,也是为了更深切地感受济南。“这座城市已经渗透进了我的生命,或者说我的生命已经渗透进了这座城市。”他说。

上世纪九十年代初,中俄贸易如火如荼。和很多怀揣着发财梦的人一样,李涛离开了济南,远赴俄罗斯淘金。从此,李涛在俄罗斯开始了布衣褴褛的创业过程。值得欣慰的是,他的努力最终换来了成功。

但是,从那时起,他记住了一种刻骨铭心的煎熬感觉:对祖国、对家乡的异乎寻常的思念。

如今,他对这种痛苦的感觉仍然记忆犹新:“没在国外呆过的人,是无法想象这种感觉的。”在俄罗斯,他对祖国的每一点变化都特别敏感。当听到有的国家抢注中国文化遗产的时候,他特别气愤:“中国有多少宝贵的文化啊,一定要珍惜……” 也正因为此,他对保护文化有着更深刻的感受。而他的家乡济南,有着数千年的历史,恰好是以文化著称的古城。于是,一种情愫在他心中悄悄滋生并深深扎根:一定要为济南做点什么……十年之后的2002年,李涛回到济南,终于等来了机会。

在芙蓉街北首路东,正对省府东街(原小布政司街,亦称布政司小街),有一座关帝庙。芙蓉街关帝庙的历史可以追溯到明代,香火曾极一时之盛。但后来,世事沧桑,繁华不再,庙宇逐渐破旧,“圣庙为粮店已有年”。后来,李涛的一位朋友,也是一位对保护济南文化有着很高热情的人,拍下了这块土地。但此时的关帝庙“已断六十年之香火”。

这位朋友找到李涛,决计和他一起重修关帝庙。两人一拍即合。

他们坚持“修旧如旧”的原则,为关帝庙增补了青砖、灰瓦等,对梁柱进行了更换、补接,重点对门头、墙面、屋顶、影壁墙砖雕和梁上彩绘进行了恢复,重新修建了碑廊、放生池,整修了大殿,同时挖掘清理出飞霜泉、芙蓉泉和武库泉三处古井,再现了历史上的关帝庙规模和原貌。武库泉、芙蓉泉还在如今的关帝庙内,泉水清冽,水位常年保持在一定的高度。长约两米的放生池池水与芙蓉泉贯通。

修缮后的关帝庙,是一片两层高的古代建筑,分南北两进院子,古色古香。北院是关帝庙的正院,门口矗立着数块古代石碑,进去是个四合院,左右各有一排房间。关帝庙的样式十分严整,庙前有4根红漆大柱子支撑,庙内供奉着关公。

2009年12月22日,经过9个月的精心修缮后的关帝庙举行开放庆典仪式。仪式结束后,大批市民及游人涌入关帝庙,游览许愿。至此,有着600年历史的关帝庙终于得以重续香火。

古时的济南号称“曲山艺海”,是著名的中国曲艺“三大码头”之一。李涛在修缮后的关帝庙南侧设了一座“芙蓉茶馆”,并建有戏台,邀请相声名家在这里说学逗唱,尽可能还原老济南的风貌。

此外,李涛在芙蓉街上租了一些门头,力求在自己力所能及的范围内使古城风貌得以复原。“其实,济南老城留下了很多非常有价值的建筑。如果保护得当,利用价值难以限量。如果拆了重建,就太可惜了。”李涛说,如果和修缮芙蓉街关帝庙一样,坚持“修旧如旧”的原则,济南的很多老建筑都可以大放异彩。

他说,很多老建筑本身的结构很好,只需要进行恰当的修缮即可。这样的老建筑既能够在尽量保持原有风貌的时候具有文物价值,又具有实用价值,可谓一举两得。如果营造了老城独特的风貌,其产生的经济价值不可估量,北京的南锣鼓巷、苏州的平江路等即是鲜明的案例。但是,如果对其采取推倒重来的方法,则会使它们的文物价值尽失,大大降低了它们的开发潜力。

“但愿这座城市能否发挥她应有的价值。”他说。

It is none but the Lotus Street that can represent Jinan’s alleys; it is none but the Lotus Street that can represent the old streets of Jinan. With a long historical standing, the Lotus Street can be called one of the old alleys with the most Jinan characteristics. Nowadays, this old alley has become the most revitalized, prosperous and charming alley.

Walking along to the depth of the antiquely beautiful, prosperous and long Lotus Street, you will find the Guandi Temple at the north end. With a history of about 600 years, the Guandi Temple in Lotus Street has been renovated and takes a brand new look nowadays. The burning incense gives new meaning to the old Lotus Street, which adds more grace to Jinan city.

Therefore, Li Tao, the man who renovated the Guandi Temple in Lotus Street at his own expense, has finally settled his worrying heart: sitting in the Lotus Tea House near the Guandi Temple at ease and enjoying a cup of tea made from the clear and sweet spring water, observing the weathered yet familiar Guandi Temple, Lotus Street, and old Jinan. He often sits like this for a whole day.

As a native Jinan person, Li Tao, born and bred in Jinan, is very familiar with everything here. “I grew up living near the Guandi Temple.” Li said. He grew up drinking the spring water so he bears an affectionate feeling towards Jinan. His departure from Jinan brought a deeper and more thorough understanding of it. “This city has infused or been infused into my life.” He says.

At the start of the 1990s, when the trade between China and Russia was flourishing, Li Tao left for Russia to start his business from scratch like many other Chinese businessmen struggling for their dreams abroad. Fortunately, his efforts paid off. However, he began to suffer from an unforgettable sentiment while staying abroad: the extraordinary missing of his motherland and hometown.

Now, such torturing feeling remains fresh in his memory. “It is hard for one who has never stayed for a long time abroad to imagine such a feeling”. He says. As a result, he became very sensitive about even the slightest change in his motherland, even more so in the case of Jinan, his hometown. He became very angry when hearing of other countries rushing to register China’s cultural relics as their own. Therefore, he bears a deeper understanding of protecting Chinese culture: “China is endowed with a priceless cultural heritage that must be treasured and preserved.”

Jinan, his hometown, with thousand years’ history, is an ancient city, famous for its profound culture. Therefore, he bore a strong nostalgia for Jinan. Meanwhile, an idea begins to grow and deeply takes root in his mind: I must do something for Jinan…… The chance finally came ten years later.