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根在大陆的台湾厝

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台湾人习称家为“厝”,意思是安身的住处,如家宅叫“厝宅”,祖家叫“祖厝”,家里人叫“厝内人”,房东叫“厝主”,房租叫“厝租”,房地产契叫“厝契”,乔迁新居叫“入厝”,等等。台湾所属市县含“厝”的地名相当多,这些“厝”大都是同姓人聚居的地方,联系姓氏根源与宗族关系,显示出古色古香的部落色彩。

位于台南玉井、楠西间的江家古厝,是人们公认的全台湾最大且保存相当完善的闽南式传统农村聚落。江家古厝占地面积3.5公顷,保留了130多栋房屋,其中多栋有百余年历史,包括土角厝、竹编厝、铁皮屋、红砖屋、洗石子屋以及砖墙、竹编墙、溷凝土墙等10余种建筑格式,体现出台湾300年来农家建筑变迁的缩影。江家古厝最大特色是十几代聚居而未分家,目前仍有30多户人家居住,俨然活态的博物馆。

台湾人中的汉族人,绝大部分是古代从祖国大陆的闽南迁移过去的。他们不忘故乡,按照闽南民居的建筑格式起厝,有一些古今不容忽视的风俗:测量厝向,选择方位,确定放水。如果房地对冲巷口、桥梁的地方,必须在厝角立一块石碑,上刻“泰山石敢当”,借以禁压不祥。此后,建厝以及主要工序都要择吉日良辰,并有大小不一的仪式。

搬进新厝也必须举行隆重的“谢土”竣工仪式。谢土,即答谢土地神。厝主在庭院大摆五牲等丰盛祭品致祭,燃放鞭炮,宴请亲朋好友。大门、房门都要张贴喜联,如“吉日竣工酬天帝;良时完建谢地神”“谢福地幸福常至;庆吉宅大吉频临”“庆乔迁合家皆禧;居新宅世代永安”“龙吐九珠来福宅;凤含八宝入华堂”“吉日安居万事如意;良辰入厝百年遂心”,并悬挂与姓氏祖家相关的匾额,如张姓喜挂“金鉴千秋”“渔阳惠政”,李姓爱悬“西阳望族”“北海名流”,林姓习惯题书“西河世泽”“九龙衍派”,等等。多数民居还习惯在大门左右挂上一对日字长形灯笼,在上面写些吉利字句,如“大展鸿图”“一帆风顺”等,有的在灯笼上写本户姓氏,谓之“字姓灯”。对于建厝这种百年大业,台湾人十分乐意接受这些习俗。

台湾住宅以三落大厝、五落大厝为正规建筑,宅地长方形,左右相称,力求均衡美观。“地打牢,万年兴。”地基掘数尺深,填上石头、泥土,固以石灰,上铺龟甲形的砖瓦。屋顶构造采用两面落水型,瓦片普遍是直接铺于桷仔之上。屋脊前后两面砌上各种彩色的瓷片,塑成有人物或花鸟的图案,显得非常灵动。大厅柱梁门窗所用木材,均为台湾出产的樟木,施以雕刻并绘色,古雅又美观。屋内墙壁和廊前壁体按照砖的原纹饰,拼摆成各种图案,与门窗的雕刻融成一体,格外醒目。屋内不设仰板,桶仔、帘柄、筒仔、梁仔等显露可见,反而不失古朴。

台湾民居喜欢用红砖红瓦,还用红色筒瓦,特别俗艳,非常独特。原来,闽南泉州籍的台湾人沿袭祖居地的种种生活习惯,因此,建房造屋无论平面布局还是立面形式,或者整体造型、细部装饰上,都深受影响,台北陈氏祖宅、大溪李姓祖屋、麻豆林氏住宅等传统民居都完好地表现了泉州红砖古厝的建筑风格。祖籍闽南的台湾人自豪地称这种传统的披红瓦房子为“皇宫起”。“起”的闽南语是“建筑”的意思,“皇宫起”就是皇宫体式的民居。台湾和闽南有个民间故事解释由来:五代十国时,闽王王审知的皇后黄惠姑每逢连绵阴雨天就伤心落泪,闽王问原因,方知皇后担心父母家房屋破漏,不能遮挡风雨。闽王当即说:“赐你一府皇宫起。”王命传到皇后娘家泉州,民众误以为一府地区都可以建皇宫建筑,遂大兴土木。后来闽王闻报,连忙下令停建,至于已经建好的,也就不予追究。“皇宫起”名头吉利,同时表象色彩浓烈、敦厚,与亚热带的自然风景配合相称,于是泉州一带崇尚之风蔓延,流传台湾不绝。在台中市南区大肚山附近有一种“同安厝”,一律用土角起厝,仅门框用红砖建造,藉以保持传统。

在台湾人心目中,厝不仅是家宅,而且是乡里,是村社。在台湾,时常听到这样的问话:“有起新厝了吗?”“买厝了吗?”起厝、买厝为台湾人的第一追求,民间故有“富不富,看新厝”之说。笔者有好多亲戚在台湾,我问起他们生活好过以后想的是什么,他们无一不说“买厝”。台湾人投资的首选是厝,婚嫁的首选也是厝,无怪乎,有人戏称“台湾女子是嫁给房子的”。在台湾文化中,也常有“厝”的影子。翻阅一些报刊,屡可见到“厝”字,甚至有的报纸栏名也开辟“阮厝人”。有一首闽南台湾方言歌曲《二水的月娘》中唱道:“月娘汝敢会照着远远阮的厝,月娘汝敢会照阮返去厝的路。月娘啊月娘啊,敢会照着阮阿娘,月娘啊月娘啊,敢会带去阮的思念。”(注:这里的“阮”不是姓氏,而是“我”的意思。)

对台湾人来说,厝包蕴着亲睦团结、温馨融和的感情,凝集着“厝内人”和家乡人的无限感情。台湾人说“厝边头尾”“好厝边”,说来顺口,听之亲切。台湾人也常客气地邀请亲友:“有闲来阮厝坐!”在闽南台湾方言中,“阮厝”就是“我家”的意思。多么朴实、热心、温情!

在海外,台湾人也会情不自禁地互问:“你厝在哪里?”有的回答:“阮厝和恁厝都在祖国大陆的闽南。”一问一答,拉近了两岸同胞的距离,密切了两岸同胞的亲情。

(本文照片由林长华拍摄、提供)

Residences in Taiwan Take Roots in Mainland

By Zhan Hua

In Taiwan, the physical residence is called 厝 (pronounced as cuo in pinyin). This word comes from the Minnan Dialect of the southern Fujian Province. The dialect is widely spoken in Taiwan Province, as most Han people in Taiwan are descendents of the migrants from the southern Fujian Province. After all, Fujian and Taiwan is separated only by the Taiwan Strait, which is about 180 kilometers wide.

The Jiang Family Residence in Tainan is widely recognized as the largest and the best-preserved traditional home in the Minnan architectural style. The ancient residential compound covers an area of 3.5 hectares where more than 130 houses stand, erected in different times and in different styles and materials. The compound reflects the evolution of rural residential houses in Taiwan over the past 300 years. The compound has evolved and expanded with quite a few houses added over the centuries largely because more than 10 generations have lived together. At present, more than 30 families of the Jiang clan still live there. The compound serves as a living encyclopedia on the history of the family and the architecture.

When people moved from the southern Fujian to Taiwan, they built houses in the style and the only way they had known for centuries. The tradition is kept alive: before a house is built, a survey must be carried out to determine how the house will stand and how it will interact well with and benefit from the specific terrace and the general natural ambience. If the plot faces an entrance to a lane or a bridge, one corner of the new house must be reinforced with a stele engraved an inscription that says “泰山石敢当”, meaning it can withstand the weight of Mount Tai. With this charm, the stele embedded in the corner symbolizes a miniaturized Mount Tai strong enough to keep away all adversary forces.

The tradition is complex and all-inclusive: it stipulates in detail what rituals must be carried out before, during and after the house is constructed and how the rituals must be conducted. Following the tradition, people know when they can move in and when they should hold a housewarming; following the tradition, people know where they should hang a couple of family-name lanterns and which auspicious phrase to write on the lanterns to indicate their ancestry on the mainland; following the tradition, people express gratitude to the god of land before the foundation is laid and to the god of heaven when the construction is completed;

The Minnan architecture stipulates that a standard large residence should have three rows or five rows of houses in a rectangular plot and the whole compound must be in a harmony of symmetry. The people in Taiwan observe the design requirements.

The residential houses built in the Minnan architectural style are highly recognizable. Red bricks and red roof tiles are two prominent hallmarks. This preference for red walls and red roofs reflects the tradition of Quanzhou, a city in southern Fujian Province. Houses in the red color look like royal palaces and merge with the tropical landscape perfectly. As a folk story goes, the people in Quanzhou began to build red houses in the ancient time after they heard of the royal decree that they were allowed to erect houses like palaces. It turned out that it was a permission given only to the queen’s parents. The king finally stopped the building boom and he was generous enough not to have the built houses dismantled.

Cuo (厝) is a big key word in everyday life of Taiwan. It is more than a house where people live. It refers to a place where you were born and raised, where you grew and merged with your community and your family and relatives. For residents of Taiwan, home purchasing is the foremost important investment and home is the most important consideration in marriages. Some people jokingly say that women are married to houses.