马丘比丘 第7期
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MACHU PICCHU
与安第斯的大自然融为一体的人工杰作
A manmade masterpiece blends into nature in the Andes
By E.J. Mujica
E・J・穆伊卡
Machu Picchu, the "Lost City of the Incas", as it was dubbed by the man who rediscovered it in the last century, is among the greatest tourist attractions in South America today and ranks among the most outstanding symbols in the Andean cultures. The beauty and exceptional quality of the pre-Hispanic buildings, the stunning landscape in which they stand, and the way in which the ancient Peruvians planned and harmonised their buildings with the surrounding site fully justified its inclusion on the World Heritage List in 1983 as both a cultural and natural site.
马丘比丘在上个世纪被再度发掘出来，发掘者称之为“印加失落之城”，它是当今南美顶级旅游胜地之一，是安第斯多种文明中最为耀眼的象征之一。西班牙统治之前的建筑的华美与超凡品质、建筑之地的惊世地貌，以及古秘鲁人对其建筑进行规划、使之与周边环境相和谐的方式，充分说明了此地在1983年被列为文化和自然双重景观载入“世界遗产名单”的合理性。
The National Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu lies in the departamento or administrative region of Cuzco in the southern mountains of Peru and on the eastern slopes of the Andes facing the Amazon Basin. Its 32,592 hectares rise on either side of the valley of the River Urubamba. The latter descends from the snowy peaks of the Andes which culminate at altitudes of over 6,000 metres. In this low part of the cordillera, the fast flowing river has cut a deep valley through the Andean massif, producing the stunning topography of the site. About eighty kilometres to the north, and at a higher altitude, the Urubamba is broader and its waters flow at a gentler pace. This allowed the Incas to canalise and to turn the valley into one of the most productive areas in the Andes. The site known today as the "Sacred Valley of the Incas" includes the villages of Pisaq, Yucay and Ollantaytambo. These Inca settlements demanded great feats of engineering and their aesthetic values are associated with huge systems of agricultural terraces that spread over the slopes like hanging gardens. As with Machu Picchu, these places are further tangible proof of the constructive and aesthetic creativity of the pre-Hispanic Andean societies.
With ten life zones ranging from low montane dry forest to the snowline, the ecology of the sanctuary of Machu Picchu is highly diverse and complex. In terms of altitude, it extends from 1,725 metres at the level of the river to 6,271 metres on the peak of snow-clad Salkantay. These features, together with the singular topography, give rise to very diverse wild flora and fauna. Orchids are the most striking species among the characteristic flora, with over thirty genera and about 100 recorded species. The endangered spectacled bear (Tremarctos ornatus) stands out among the vertebrate fauna.
It was in this landscape that the Incas built Machu Picchu at the end of the fourteenth century, and the city was still functioning in the middle of the sixteenth century. The Inca people were the last and best known of the advanced societies of the Andes before the arrival of the Europeans. They created an empire that covered a broad territory in which today's republics of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, part of Argentina and perhaps the southern end of Colombia are now located. The success of this empire, and that of the Andean societies that preceded it, was mainly due to intelligent management of natural resources and to intentional transformation of the landscape, converting what had been arid lands into fertile areas under intensive production. Machu Picchu is a clear illustration of this, and for that reason it is now perhaps the most famous Inca site.
It was discovered on 24 July 1911 by Hiram Bingham III (1875-1956), Director of the Peruvian Expedition of the University of Yale. He was taken to the spot by Melchior Arteaga, a local farmer, and accompanied by Sergeant Carrasco, a guard commissioned by the Cuzco authorities to assist him. In fact, Bingham wanted to discover Vilcabamba, another of the lost cities of the Incas. He had references from sixteenth century Spanish chronicles as it was there that Manco Inca - the last native sovereign - took refuge at the time of the Spanish conquest. Bingham must have been absolutely astonished to find intact under a layer of vegetation a city that had gone unnoticed ever since it had been abandoned 400 years earlier.
Machu Picchu is some 100 kilometres from the city of Cuzco, the capital of the empire. It is a small city built entirely of blocks of quarried stone on the ridge of one of the foothills of the Andes formed by a huge meander of the River Urubamba. The city perches saddle-like atop the slopes. The location of the site is noteworthy, particularly since the way the architecture blends into the scenic beauty of the surrounding area lends it a very special quality.
The settlement Bingham discovered is made up of two clearly different sectors, one agricultural and one urban. The first is characterised by an almost infinite succession of perfectly constructed agricultural terraces, which are interconnected either by stones inlaid in the retaining walls like steps, or by stairways consisting of many stone tiers arranged like corridors. The design of the terraces, also known as andenes, is in perfect harmony with the mountains surrounding the site, giving the impression that the slopes have been sculpted to harmonise with nature.
Access to the urban part, which is clearly differentiated from the agricultural sector by a large perimeter wall, is via a beautiful lithic porch with double jambs. This architectural feature of the Inca building style marks the location where the road from the city of Cuzco came to an end. This sector consists of 172 enclosures of different shapes and sizes, connected by 109 stairways that make it possible to move over such steep slopes. The enclosures are divided into "neighbourhoods", each with specific functions according to their formal characteristics and the cultural evidence found in the excavations.
One sector, for example, was destined for storage, doubtless of the harvests of maize grown on the terraces; another is distinguished by the large number of mortars found there, probably for making chicha (corn beer), which is still very widely used in religious festivals in the Andean world. Other sectors consisted of houses for the people who carried out the different specialised manufacturing activities or religious ceremonies, or administered agricultural output. Some enclosures, such as the Coricancha (Temple of the Sun in the Quechua language) or the Aqllawasi (House of the Virgins), stand out for the fine finish of their walls, comparable to the exquisite buildings in the imperial capital, Cuzco, and were no doubt the most important buildings on the site.
The enclosures are complemented by a great public square in the centre of the urban sector, as well as two minor squares. Special buildings with an obvious ceremonial function complete the urban sector, including the noteworthy Temple of the Three Windows and the Intihuatana, a specially sculpted stone for astronomic observations, as well as a complex ritual system of interconnecting baths and springs.
This magnificently conserved city, which must have housed between 1,000 and 2,000 people, has justifiably become the representative image of the most highly elaborated Inca notions of architecture, natural objects and sacred landscapes. On the one hand, the irregular lie of the land was converted into terraces which, while echoing the surroundings, were used for construction and farming. On the other, they respected more than a score of important rocks that were integrated into the layout of the city, like scale models of the surrounding topography. Machu Picchu was obviously a highly planned city, meticulously designed to fit an extraordinary natural setting.
E.J. Mujica, Director of the Andean Institute of Archaeological Studies
“马丘比丘国家历史保护区”位于秘鲁南部山区的库斯科辖区（行政区），坐落在安第斯山东侧的斜坡之上，与亚马逊盆地相望。此地幅员32592公顷，分布在乌鲁班巴河河谷的两侧。乌鲁班巴河自海拔6000多米的安第斯山雪峰峰顶顺流而下。在科迪勒拉山系的这片低麓地区，这条湍急的河流在安第斯群山之间切割出一条深邃的河谷，在此地造就出一番惊世的地形。大约在北部80公里处，在海拔更高的地方，乌鲁班巴河的跨度更大，水流更为舒缓。这就使印加人可以开凿运河，把这一河谷改造成安第斯山最为多产的地区之一。当今被称为“印加圣谷”的这一地区，包括匹萨克、尤凯和奥兰提潭伯三个村落。这些印加人的居住地在工程上的要求非常之高，而它们的审美取向则融汇在绵延于斜坡之上、仿若悬空花园的巨大梯形农田体系之中。安第斯的多个社会在西班牙统治之前就在建筑和审美方面具有创造性，而这些地方与马丘比丘一样，为此提供了更为确凿的证据。
“马丘比丘保护区”拥有从低矮的山区旱林到雪线在内的十个生物带，其生态呈现出高度的多样性和复杂性。就海拔而言，其浮动范围从河面的1725米一直到为积雪覆盖的萨堪泰峰峰顶的6271米。这些特色，再加上独特的地形，创造出了极富多样性的野生动植物。在特色植被当中，兰花是最引人注目的种类，拥有30多个类别，大约100个记录在册的品种。而濒临灭绝的眼镜熊（南美熊）则在脊椎动物中独放异彩。
14世纪末，印加人就是在这一地貌之中将马丘比丘建立起来的，而且在16世纪中叶的时候，这个城市仍在运转之中。在欧洲人到来之前，印加群体是安第斯最后一个高级形态的社会，也是最著名的一个。他们缔造了一个疆域辽阔的帝国，如今的厄瓜多尔、秘鲁、玻利维亚、智利等共和实体，阿根廷的部分区域，可能还有哥伦比亚的南疆现在都处在这片区域之中。这一帝国的兴盛以及先前多个安第斯社会的兴盛，主要归功于对自然资源的智能化管理以及对这一地貌的人为改造――将贫瘠的土地变成密集耕作的沃土。马丘比丘深深地印证了这一点，基于这个原因，此地可能是目前最著名的印加景观。
耶鲁大学“秘鲁探险队”的负责人希拉姆・宾汉姆三世 (1875-1956) 在1911年7月24日发现了这里。在库斯科当局指派对其进行协助的警卫――卡拉斯哥中士的陪同下，他被当地农民梅尔基尔・阿提亚哥带到了这个地方。事实上，宾汉姆想要发掘的是印加失落之城中的另一个――维尔卡班巴。他参阅了西班牙16世纪的编年史，发现那里正是“曼可印加王”（最后一位本土君主）在西班牙人占领时期的避难之所。一个早在400年前就被遗弃的城市遮覆在植被之下，完好无损，人迹未至，宾汉姆在发现这一点时定是惊讶无比。
马丘比丘距帝国首都――库斯科市大约有100公里。它是一个小城，完全是由开采出来的石块筑成，位于安第斯山某个山麓的山脊之上，而那些山麓的形成是由乌鲁班巴河的巨大曲流造成的。这个城市宛若一副马鞍，搁置在斜坡之上。此地的位置引人注目，这特别要归功于其建筑与周边美景相融的方式为其赋予了一种非常独特的品质。
宾汉姆发现的这个居住地由两个明显不同的区域组成，一个是农业区，一个是都市区。第一个区域的特色在于那些几乎望不到边际、构筑完美的梯形农田；犹如台阶一般、镶嵌在护墙之内的石头，或者是排得像走廊一样、由众多石层组成的阶梯，将这些梯田串连起来。这些梯田又称作“andenes”，其设计与周边山峦和谐至极，给人造成一种印象，即这些斜坡就是为了与自然和谐相处而被雕琢出来的。
一个巨大的环形墙壁将都市区与农业区明显地区分开来，而要进入都市就得途径一个华美的石筑双柱门廊。印加建筑风格的这一建造特色，标志着由库斯科市延伸出来的道路到此完结。这一区域由172个形状和大小各异的封闭场所组成，109个阶梯穿梭其间，使得在如此陡峭的斜坡上行走成为可能。这些封闭场所被划分成了“街区”，根据其表面特征以及在这些出土地点发现的文化物证所示，每个街区都具有特定的功能。
例如，有一个区域被指定用于仓储，毫无疑问是用来存储从梯田中收获的玉米作物；另一个区域的特别之处在于那里发现的大量灰浆，可能是作为酿造“吉开酒”（玉米啤酒）之用，而该酒在安第斯世界的宗教节日中的使用仍旧非常广泛。其它的区域则由屋舍组成，住户是那些从事不同的专业化生产活动、宗教仪式的人，或是管理农业生产的人。一些封闭场所，如“科里坎查”（在盖丘亚族语中意为“太阳庙”）或“阿克拉瓦希”（“处女屋”），因其墙壁的精雕细刻而独放异彩，可与帝国首都库斯科的精美建筑相提并论，毫无疑问是此地最重要的建筑群。
一个位于都市区中央的大型公共广场和两个小型广场，使这些封闭场所完备起来。而明显具有仪典功能的特殊建筑则完善了都市区域，其中就包括“三窗庙”和一个专门为了观测天象而雕凿的"拴日石"，以及一套由彼此相连的浴池和泉水组成的复杂仪典体系。
这座保存得极好的城市，一定有1000到2000人在此居住过，现在已经无可非议地成为最精细复杂的印加建筑理念、自然景物理念和圣土理念的典型体现。一方面，参差分布的土地被改造成了梯田，而这些梯田在与环境产生共鸣的同时又被用于建筑和农耕。另一方面，他们对二十几块重要的岩石都怀有敬意之情，而这些岩石与城市规划融为了一体，犹如周围地形的比例模型。马丘比丘明显是一个规划细致的城市，为与非凡的自然环境相融而进行了精心的设计。
E・J・穆伊卡，安第斯考古研究所所长
dub /d7b/ vt.授予称号
Hispanic /his`p2nik/ adj.西班牙的
justify /`_7stifai/ v.证明……是正当的
sanctuary /`s2Mktju9ri/ n.鸟兽禁猎区；动物保护区
hectare /`hekt3/ n.公顷
altitude /`2lti(d/ n.(尤指海拔)高度
massif /`m2s1f/ n.群山；山丘
topography /t9`p4Gr9fi/ n.地形学
canalise /`k2n9laiz/ v.开凿运河
sacred /`seikrid/ adj.神圣的
aesthetic /1s`Fetik/ adj.美学的；审美的
terrace /`ter9s/ n.梯田
tangible /`t2n_9bl/ adj.切实的
montane /`m4ntein/ adj.山区的
snowline /sn9ulain/ n.(地)雪线
ecology /i(:)`k4l9_i/ n.生态学
snow-clad /`sn9ukl2d/ adj.被雪所覆盖的
singular /`siMGjul9/ adj.非凡的；异常的
flora /`fl5r9/ n.植物
fauna /`f5n9/ n.动物群
genera /`_en9r9/ n.类；属
vertebrate /`v8tibrit/ n.脊椎动物
precede /pri(:)`s1d/ v.先于
arid /`2rid/ adj.贫瘠的(土地等)
commission /k9`miH9n/ vt.命令；委任
chronicle /`kr4nikl/ n.编年史
sovereign /`s4vrin/ n.君主；统治
intact /in`t2kt/ adj.完整无缺的；尚未被人碰过的
vegetation /,ve_i`teiH9n/ n.植被
quarry /`kw4ri/ vt.采(石)；挖掘
meander /mi`2nd9/ n.弯曲；曲流
perch /p8tH/ v.就位；位于
saddle /`s2dl/ n.鞍；鞍状物
infinite /`infinit/ adj.无穷的；无限的
inlaid /`in`leid/ adj.镶嵌的；嵌入的
excavation /,eksk9`veiH9n/ n.挖掘；出土文物
destine /`destin/ vt.注定；预定
mortar /`m5t9/ n.灰浆
exquisite /`ekskwizit/ adj.优美的；精致的
elaborate /i`l2b9r9t/ vt.精心制作；详细阐述
meticulously /mi`tikjul9sli/ adv.小心翼翼地