土耳其洗浴文化
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土耳其浴在土语里叫哈马姆，是一种传统的桑拿浴。土耳其人去哈马姆，就像中国人过去去泡澡堂子一样。初次体验土耳其浴是个非常愉快的过程，而洗完之后的感觉更是浑身清爽，难怪土耳其人会说，就算你不喜欢土耳其的风景，洗过一次土耳其浴的人也会爱上这个国家的。
说起土耳其浴的起源可能要上溯到古希腊时期，那时候，上流社会的人们非常重视身体的清洁，因此在土耳其一些著名的古希腊遗址中，澡堂通常都是非常显要的。
闻名遐迩的土耳其浴是利用浴室内的高温，使人大汗淋漓，再用温水或冷水淋浴全身，达到清除污垢，舒活筋骨，消除疲劳的目的。
哈马姆浴室是个圆形的大屋子，中央是一个大理石做的、可并排躺4至5个人的圆形平台，高不足一米，很光滑。浴室四周墙边是一圈石阶，阶上等距离地装有石头做的水缸，缸上有两个水龙头，一冷一热，浴者自己放水调温，并用缸里的碗或瓢舀水冲澡。讲究点的，整个浴室都用大理石装饰，像伊斯坦布尔老皇宫里那样还可以透过窗户看到美丽的海峡。一般的也就是水泥或石头砌就。桑拿的热量来自地板下，经过长时间的烧烤，地板变得很热，但并不烫，人走在上面很舒服，在平台上或躺或趴，不一会儿就蒸得浑身热乎乎的，这时可到边上的水缸里冲凉，过一会儿再接着蒸，待蒸得差不多了，可以叫人搓背或按摩，但仅限于同性按摩。而且传统的土耳其浴都是男女分浴或分时而浴。
作为一种文化，土耳其浴有很多讲究。如“新娘浴”说的是结婚头一天，新娘子要到哈马姆去沐浴一番；“40天浴”是庆祝婴儿出生第四十天，类似我们的满月酒，或可称之满月浴；“擦干眼泪浴”指的是亲人去世后二十天所有的亲戚洗的澡；“还愿浴”是愿望实现后洗的澡；“客人浴”是迎接稀客或贵客的；“节日浴”是指重大节日前要沐浴净身。过去还有浴室选亲说，指的是男方母亲到浴室里为自己的儿子相亲，看未来的儿媳妇身体有无缺陷等等。可见土耳其的“洗浴文化”是多么的丰富多彩。
在正宗的土耳其浴室内，专门有一批称之为“坦拉克”的按摩师。当沐浴者舒展四肢躺卧在“肚皮石”上，双手涂满橄榄油的按摩师便在他身上推、拿、揉、按，使全身皮肤微红，血脉流畅，顿觉浑身轻松，舒适无比。
土耳其人进浴室大都带一个丰盛的食品盒，装着羊肉串、腰子、酸奶、榛子等食品干果。沐浴后，新朋旧友聚在一起，边吃喝边聊天。这种“浴室聚餐”往往持续好几个小时。然后各自回到更衣室的单间，美美地睡上一觉，直到太阳西下才回家。
女士洗浴，有她们独特的方式。她们坐在石凳上，先用盛满肥皂水的铜盆，从头到脚冲淋一通，然后让女侍者用清水沐淋7次。妇女们也备食品盒，沐浴后，她们请朋友们品尝自己做的菜肴，既显示烹饪技艺的高超又可以相互切磋。她们还要在手指甲和脚趾上涂上一种叫“克纳”的颜料，发际洒上香水，让自己光艳照人。
土耳其浴是土耳其的国粹，源于东罗马。那阵子，伊斯坦布尔是东罗马的首都，东罗马人把罗马帝国的洗浴习俗带到了这里。据说，罗马人有半生时光耗在浴池里。史学家甚至声称：沐浴、是罗马灭亡的原因。我见过保罗・路易斯和热罗姆描摹土耳其浴的油画。我还看过土耳其与意大利合拍的《后宫》，里面也有一节土耳其浴，一位温厚的浴娘，往女主人身上搓澡，推精油，手法细腻，让人迷醉。
不久前，我也有幸到了伊斯坦布尔市中心一家古老的土耳其浴室洗浴的机会。这家浴室建于1584年，据说是苏丹皇后下令修建的，当年这里是上流社会沐浴及社交的场所。土耳其人掌控伊斯坦布尔后，对东罗马人的沐浴方式进行了一番本土化改造。
一进去，侍应将我引入大厅，大厅灯光昏暗，那光源仿佛是四百年前投下来的，幽幽的，生怕惊动了谁。定眼一看，说这是大厅不如说它是天井来得准确，中庭上通二楼三楼，每层楼的栏杆边高高低低地垂满了红白格子大布巾，是桌布还是床单？正猜着，侍应已经奉上一杯土耳其红茶，然后发一只小纸盒。纸盒里面装着一块巴掌大的粗纹纱布，搓澡用的，那质地就像我们用的丝瓜络。后来还发一个小牌牌，还有一块刚才在天井里见到的那种红白格子布巾。哦，原来是给客人用的。女更衣室颇像泳场的储存间，墙上立着一格格的木柜子。锁好衣服，我学着别人的样子，用布巾裹着身体，进入浴室。
浴室是圆形的，地板、墙壁全由大理石砌成。整间浴室温度不高，没有桑拿房那种蒸汽氤氲的样子，不会让人气闷。圆形的拱顶上凿了许多圆孔，透出一束束的灯光。墙边环形一圈有十几根柱子，是伊斯兰风格的拱券，拱券里面有几间敞开的浴室，里面有一个个带纹饰有底座的大理石浴盆，相当于蓄水池，承接着冷、热水龙头流下来的水线。我先进里头用温水把自己浇了个透，然后挤到肚皮石上躺下。
土耳其浴的独特之处全在这块肚皮石上。肚皮石热烘烘的，光滑如镜，躺上去惬意、舒服，并不烫人。我感到一阵神秘。遐想之间，身上的水珠便不见了，赶紧跑到浴盆浇上十几勺水，再躺倒。依保健理论说，躺上去即是做石疗，有益气活血、舒筋通脉之功，可将内脏的浊气排除到体外，对风湿病人尤有好处。一会儿，一个皮肤浅棕高鼻深眼的土耳其浴娘过来拍拍我，取走了我手上的牌牌，扯走我的布巾，铺到肚皮石的边上。她用手语示意我躺过去。接着，她拿着一大勺水，对着我当头照脸就泼过来，吓我一激灵，啊，这是见面礼吗？然后抱来一床被子一样的大团泡沫，铺到我身上，拿过我手上的纱布，开始搓搓擦擦……
我被浴娘吓得一句声不敢吱了，难道这就是我期待已久的土耳其浴吗？我想这就像是一次探险之旅，乐不可支，这一浴，花去我45美元。
伊斯坦布尔最著名的土耳其浴室，要算伊斯坦布尔旧城中心苏莱曼清真寺旁边的哈马姆了。据说它已有300多年历史。这家哈马姆是与苏莱曼清真寺同时修建的，19世纪英国画家汤姆斯・阿隆曾来此游历，绘制了大名鼎鼎的《恰阿奥卢浴室》铜版画。此后，阿隆的铜版画流传到欧洲各国，恰阿奥卢浴室也成为土耳其浴的象征。时至今日，该哈马姆已成为许多来自世界各国游客体验传统土耳其浴的地方。
Taking a Bath in Turkey
By Shen Haibin
For many oriental people, Turkey bath may enjoy a greater popularity than Turkey. Some people, without any idea what Turkey bath actually is, let themselves get misled into imagining that it is full of carnal pleasures.
In Turkey, the bath is called Hamam. I took a bath at a traditional Turkey bathhouse in downtown Istanbul, a great metropolis that spans Europe and Asia. The bathhouse was presumably built in 1584.
I was ushered into a cavernous hall as soon as I stepped into the bathhouse. The quiet space was vaguely lit, bringing me back to 400 years ago. The hall looked more like a patio: a staircase leading up to the second and third floors and the balustrade on each floor was covered by large pieces of cloths printed with white and red stripes. Were they tablecloths or bed sheets? Before I made up my mind on what they were, I received a cup of black tea and was given a small paper box, inside which was a palm-size rough fabric for scrub massage. Then I was given a small wood chip as well as a large piece of cloth I had just seen. It was something like a bath towel to cover the body.
The locker room for women was just like a locker room in a swimming pool. The walls were lined with lockers. After stuffing my dresses into a locker and locked it, I wrapped myself up with the towel and stepped into the bathroom.
The first sight of the bathroom was astonishing. The centerpiece of the bathroom was a round marble stone called “tummy stone”, about half a meter tall and three meters in radius. Some women lied on the stone, a few sat there chatting. The round bathroom had marble floor and marble walls. The temperature wasn’t high. The huge dome on the ceiling is decorated with small glass windows through which lights came down. A few arches led into small bathrooms, each with a single marble bathtub. Where I stood under the taps and got myself wet and then found a spot on the marble platform and lied there.
The marble stone is the unique thing in a Turkish bath. I found it warm and smooth. I lied there for a while and seeing the water drops on my skin vanish, I hurriedly went to the marble bathtub again and get myself wet and came back to the marble platform. Then a Turkish girl came to me. She took the small wood chip and gave me a scrub message.
It is said that Hamams in Turkey go back to the Eastern Roman Empire. A Hamam is more than a bathhouse. It is a way of life. A bride takes a bath at a Hamam the first day of her marriage. A 40-day-old baby is given a bath at a Hamam. Relatives take a bath together 20 days after someone in the family passes away. Guests are treated with a bath. Before a big day or a festival, people come to take a bath. It is said that in the ancient times, a mother would go to a Hamam and take a look at the would-be daughter-in-law.
A bathhouse is also a venue for families or friends to meet and have a picnic. They bring a huge food box to the bathhouse where they enjoy eating and chatting for hours before they take a nap in a separate cubical and then go home in the late afternoon.
A Hamam receives women on certain days of a week and it caters to men on the rest days of the week. Some Hamams have separate rooms for men and women.
The most famous Hamam is called Cemberlitas Hamam beside the Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, erected in 1584. In the 19th century, English artist Thomas Allom created an etching that features a Turkish bath in Istanbul, which made Turkish bath popular throughout Europe. Today, the very hamam in his painting is a must for international tourists who want to know Turkey. Without taking a Turkish bath, it is said, your visit to Turkey isn’t complete.