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最时尚——五大潮服连连看

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时装,是时尚界的永恒主题。本期的《达人密码》中,从法国知名品牌香奈儿的黑色迷你裙到《欲望都市》中Carrie的个性混搭风格,我们将一起领略五大极具时代特色的服饰潮流。

Hostess: …but right now, to the fast-moving world of fashion, and the trends that change the way we dress today. Weekend Today’s Airlie Walsh looks at the 5 most important fashion moments.

Deb Thomas(from “ACP Magazines”): For many people, fashion plays a huge part in their lives. It’s…it’s how we present ourselves.

Edwina Mccann(Editor of“Harper’s Bazaar”): Fashion touches all of us. I think even those of us who think that we’re not affected by it, we are.

Airlie Walsh(Reporter of“Weekend Today”): It was the 1st of October, 1926, when this little black dress started it all. Coco Chanel’s knee-length silk design signified a new era in fashion when it first appeared in Vogue.

Edwina: The little black dress was a 1)utilitarian dress. It was something that was elegant and simple, and that’s why it’s become a 2)wardrobe 3)staple.

Airlie: And, from one wardrobe staple to another, the 60s saw the rise, and, well, rise of the mini-skirt. British model Jean Shrimpton made headlines, when she stepped out at Derby Day, wearing this white mini-dress some four inches above the knee.

Deb: The 60s and the mini-skirt were a reaction to the 1950s and the big skirts. It reflected women’s liberation. It reflected the rise of the 4)rebellious teenager. It said, we are a new generation and we dress in a very different way.

Airlie: The 80s paved the way for the working-woman’s wardrobe. The power suit became the uniform of choice, and the wider the shoulder 5)pads, the better.

Edwina: Women, for the first time, were really fighting their way in the workforce for equality, for equal pay, equal rights, and I think that’s where those shoulder pads came from. We were giving ourselves a bit of 6)armour, 7)beefing up if you like, to…to play, you know, equals with the boys.

Airlie: The dawn of the 90s marked the moment models became power brokers in the world of fashion, 8)solidified with this 9)iconic cover.

Deb: These super-models, they weren’t going to get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day. They represented what fashion had become, and that was 10)personalized style, 11)rock chicks, 12)jet-setting and just looking amazing.

Airlie: And the entire fashion world was carried away when Sex and the City hit our screens.

Deb: No one could have predicted the affect that the fashions in Sex and the City had on fashion in general. Carrie Bradshaw’s style is very13)eclectic, and it really was about taking bits and pieces, 14)vintage, different designers, and putting them together in your own personal style.

主持人:但是现在,谈到快速发展的时尚界以及改变我们穿衣打扮的流行风潮,《今日周末》的记者艾尔利·沃尔什向我们介绍五大最重要的时装时代。

戴比·托马斯(ACP出版社):对许多人来说,时尚在他们的生活中起着重要作用。这是一种自我展现。

埃德温娜·麦肯(《时尚芭莎》的编辑):时尚影响着所有人。我想即使是自认不受其影响的我们也不例外。

艾尔利·沃尔什(《今日周末》记者):1926年10月1日的小黑裙开启了这一切(指开创了服装时尚界)。可可·香奈儿的及膝丝质小礼服在《Vogue》的首次亮相标志着一股新时代服饰风潮的到来。

埃德温娜:这款黑色迷你裙是一种实用着装。它优雅简洁,这是为什么它能成为衣橱必备品的原因。艾尔利:从一种主打服到另一种,20世纪60年代见证着迷你裙的兴起。当英国模特珍·诗琳普顿穿着高于膝盖4英尺的白色迷你裙在“德比日”(英国非常有名的赛马日)那天一亮相,随即成为当日的焦点。

戴比:60年代的迷你裙是对50年代长裙的反叛。它反映了女性的解放,也反映了反叛青年的呼声。迷你裙(替他们)告诉世人,我们是新一代的年轻人,我们穿不一样的衣服。

艾尔利:80年代为职场女性的服装开创了一片天地。这一权力服装成为首选制服,衣服的垫肩越宽越好。

埃德温娜:女性第一次在职场中为了她们平等的报酬、平等的权利而斗争,我想这就是那些肩垫的由来。我们将自己武装起来,看起来更强大,和男性一起拥有平等的地位。

艾尔利:90年代的到来,模特们在时尚杂志的出现更有利地巩固了她们在时尚界的地位。

戴比:这些超级名模一天要是没有10000美金是不会出去工作的。她们引领着当时的时尚风:个性化风格、享乐狂欢、“空中飞行”族,看起来棒极了。

艾尔利:当美剧《欲望都市》袭卷荧屏时,整个时尚界都追随着“凯莉风”。(译者注:凯莉是《欲望都市》的女主角)

戴比:没有人能预计到《欲望都市》里面的潮流能给整个时尚界带来如此大的影响。凯莉·布雷萧的混搭风格,是将各种零碎、复古风、不同设计搭配一起变成她自己的个性风格。

Airlie: But while trends come and go, real style 15)transcends time.

Deb: I’ll quote Coco Chanel. “When it comes to fashion, less is more. When you leave to go out, just take one thing off. ”

艾尔利:流行稍纵即逝,风格永存。

戴比:引用可可·香奈儿的话—“简洁就是时尚。当你出门时,记得少带一件时尚品。”

小链接

Chanel三大经典服饰介绍

1 .香奈儿小黑裙

香奈儿小黑裙通常设计简单,因此配饰成为小黑裙的一个看点。珍珠、胸针、胸花、腰带等都成为给小黑裙增色的小要素。出产经典小黑裙的香奈儿品牌的创始人可可·香奈儿女士喜爱珍珠配饰,她从来不会只戴一条珍珠项链出门。

2 . 袖笼

这是香奈儿著名开襟羊毛衫式样外套的秘密所在。这里有一个巧妙的结构,看上去有些笨拙但又是很特别的设计,它可以与相当紧的袖子相连接。在现代女性装束中被描绘为:在袖笼之下比较高的地方,精巧的造型和安排刚好可以绕过肩膀。

3 . 黑白金

黑白金的混合运用也是香奈儿的时尚革命,她开辟的解放女性的革命,不是让女人变得不像女人,而是“内外优雅”。这个完美主义者用黑白金色刻意营造的低调奢华,都将和她喜欢的极简风格,成为最精致也最具影响力的一种精英主义,这股影响力甚至影响着未来50年全世界女性的衣着、思想及行为。