Fall for it
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In a season as painterly as autumn is in Kashmir， nothing escapes its surreal magic. Giddy fragrance fills the air and every nook wears fresh colour. The accolades for nature’s makeover are all directed to the elegant chinar， which dresses its leaves in the most blazing colours to lend a radiant twist to the vistas. That a simple leaf can herald hope and joy appears quite incredible， and as autumn enters its final stages， the chinar is at work again， preparing for the grand finale of its fall collection that carpets the ground to add a degree of romance.
A lingering image of Srinagar in autumn is， well， not the Dal Lake， not the bustle of Boulevard Road， not the Mughal Gardens but something quieter and hidden from popular itineraries. It’s the sight of the impressive AD 1395 Khanqah-e-Moulla—a shrine dedicated to Persian preacher Shah-E-Hamdan in Downtown—standing as a serene backdrop to a silently flowing Jhelum. Theirs is an enduring companionship. Like the Khanqah， the river has seen much change in the Valley. But in an altering landscape it has remained unchanged， following its karma to flow through it all， whether grunge or glory， at a tranquil rhythm.
The chinar has the ability to transform； and one of the experiences it turns around is a leisurely cruise down the Jhelum. A journey down the Jhelum on a shikara is an excellent way to soak in the river spectacle； so befriend a local boatman who can bring alive the river and give soul to its stories and songs.
Many years ago， Srinagar was essentially a city by the Jhelum， till urbanisation distanced the thoroughfare from it. And as the naturally-beautiful waters of the Dal and Nageen lakes magnetically began drawing more attention， the river got further overshadowed. Life by its banks， however， continues to blossom， even as it remains a world away from the standard picture-perfect montages of the city. Experiencing it first hand is like chartering unfamiliar territory where the unexpected initially bewilders and then charms.
The lifeline of the Kashmir valley， the Jhelum， is believed to be a form of god， with legend speaking about a celestial combat having led to its origin. Known as River Vitasta or Veth in Kashmiri， its source is a spring at Verinag， another striking spot in the foothills of the Pir Panjal. It ribbons through 76 km of the Valley before entering Srinagar and thereafter flowing into the Wular Lake， Asia’s largest freshwater lake， en route its final journey to merge with River Indus.
Interestingly initially Srinagar was established on the north-eastern bank of the Jhelum but over time grew on the opposite flank too. The two sides are linked by seven wood bridges or kadal， and today only a few， such as Zero Kadal and Zaina Kadal， exist in their original shape adding to the fable of Downtown.
As you cruise past villages and pastures， mosques and homes， a day in the life of the Jhelum gradually unfolds to the music of oars softly patting the waters. The visuals almost appear like sepia-toned watercolour frames， albeit not minus the grime， that fallen leaves of the chinar valiantly try and mask. Despite the woes， the images are alluring… Shikaras moored on the banks， children rowing to school， a phiran-clad woman packing her boat with freshly plucked spinach， boatmen enjoying early morning cups of kahva， a fisherman casting his net as his wife prepares the kangri or a teenager getting his first lessons in handling oars. At times an impromptu invite to join in for a meal of rice and gushtaba adds distinct flavour to the journey.
This older part of town still exhibits classic Kashmiri architecture. Most houses along the Jhelum date back to about a century or even more. What typifies them is the cubical wood structure with tapering pyramidal roofs， brickwork and characteristic latticed windows. In contrast， almost all new construction in the city shows no admiration for convention. Some like Iftikhar Jalali， the former managing director of the J&K Tourism Development Corporation though， take pride in tradition and his lovingly kept home in Zadi-bal gets its share of admirers. The landmark in this riverscape is the Khanqah. It embodies the essence of cultural harmony， and is visited by people of all faiths. Its remarkable medieval wooden structure， further enhanced by engraved and painted interiors， is another example of fast- disappearing architecture.
The river presents a collage of daily chores； it’s the unhurried pace that soothes. You see it once and move on with a stock of memories. The Jhelum has been a mute witness to it all since centuries and continues to be.