Colonial Expedition

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Satellite cities are not supposed to make good tourist destinations. And in China, where urban planners have been liberal with their wrecking balls in recent years, you wouldn’t expect these kinds of places to offer much in the way of charm or culture.

Tianjin, the port city for its neighbour Beijing, may seem like such a place. But having spent a year living and working there, I can safely say it’s worthy of a much higher standing.

Tianjin’s impressive array of colonial architecture gives its streets a uniquely quaint appearance, creating a stark contrast with the ever-evolving skyline that looms overhead. It’s now one of the fastest growing cities in China, and huge investment has led to a meteoric modernization in recent years.

Existing for most of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties as a coastal trading hub for nearby Beijing, it was only when Western powers moved into China in the 19th century that Tianjin developed into a major industrial city.

The granting of eight concession zones to the major trading powers of the time (Britain, USA, Italy, Austria-Hungary, France, Russia, Japan and Germany) signaled an influx of foreign industry, and the construction of lav- ish villas, banks, schools and even prisons to house the arriving traders.

Returning to this city, nicknamed “the Shanghai of the North,” I wanted to explore its bloodlines a little further, and see what kind of a city-break Tianjin had to offer. Although still a far cry from the sophistication of Shanghai, it currently boasts China’s highest GDP per capita, and numerous multinational companies are setting up office in a specially designated economic development zone. Maybe its nickname is a sign of a bright future for this supposedly laid-back city?

Arriving at Tianjin Station on the bullet train from Beijing so quick and easy you barely have time to realize that traveling in China can be a painless experience I didn’t have to go far to witness one of the city’s new developments: two immaculate new subway lines making a grand total of four.

Previously, arriving at the subway-less train station would mean a mad dash to the taxi stand, where the wait for a cab could often take longer than the 110-kilometer intercity train journey. But now, with the option of a sparkling, spotless new subway line, I felt like a child discovering a secret passageway in his own house.

My excitement quickly turned to familiar frustration though, as the rows of new ticket machines were all out of order. Back to queuing at the booth then, although now a considerably shorter wait than the dreaded taxi line.

Deciding to avoid the popular Italian-style town (this old concession has suffered so much “restoration” that you might find more authentic looking replicas in Legoland), I crossed the snaking Hai River to Jiefang Bei Lu. This quiet street used to bisect the British Quarter and is lined with rows of imposing old banks. Walking along here, you really begin to appreciate the aesthetic that these edifices lend Tianjin.

The nearby Astor Hotel made for a suit- ably refined pit stop. Founded in 1863, this grandiose establishment was China’s first international hotel notable guests have included Herbert Hoover, Premier Zhou Enlai, and Pu Yi, China’s last emperor.

Even if your budget doesn’t allow a stay in one of its lavish rooms, you can channel your inner aristocrat by stopping for a very English cup of Earl Grey in their opulent atrium. The sun had set by the time I arrived, however, so I opted for the old-world favourite, a gin and tonic, in the hotel’s stately O’Hara Bar.

Wu Da Dao was next on the list of imperial sights. This wonderfully tranquil and tree-lined cluster of colonial villas is best enjoyed on foot, but the buildings number into the thousands, so consider renting bikes. Seeking the most antiquated experience possible, however, I opted for the horse-drawn cart. Find these at Minyuan Stadium in the heart of Wu Da Dao on Chongqing Lu.

While the English signage here is either a slight mistranslation or just a jolly brag “Outlandish Tourist Area” the huge array of European styles does make for an eclectic, if sometimes jarring, collection.

If you’re in the area, try the family-run Sha Guo Li Restaurant on Jiujiang Lu for some authentic Tianjn fare. Be warned though it gets busy, no English is spoken, and when I turned up without a reservation I was kindly told I’d be waiting for an hour. Luckily two spaces were quickly freed up for me and my companion, although they turned out to be in a cramped room with a lone table, alongside three other pairs of diners.

It wasn’t long before huge quantities of food were brought in, and there was much speculation about which group of diners had chosen best. Their famous home-style pork rib was the unanimous winner lucky, then, that everyone had ordered it.

Leaving Wu Da Dao I spotted the impressive St Joseph’s Church. Built in 1913 by French missionaries, it sits solemnly at the end of Binjiang Dao, Tianjin’s heaving and glimmering main shopping parade. It’s still an active Catholic Church, but now the image of it being enveloped on all sides by Starbucks, Nike and countless other high street deities reveals China’s altogether warmer embrace of another kind of cultural import from the West.

Tianjin is not just one big Euro-fest though; a fascinating melee of Chinese culture can be found at the buzzing Antique Market on Shenyang Dao. The Shi Family Mansion, a charming Qing period house and gardens, made for a more serene exploration of Tianjin’s history.

Ancient Culture Street a name that conjures up images of winding hutong alleyways and picturesque courtyards is popular with tourists, but fails to deliver on both its promises. Neither ancient (it’s a predictable collection of reconstructions) nor cultural (rows of shops selling the same tacky souvenirs), it’s not worth the visit.

As I left the city on the high-speed train, the view of the faceless, grey urban sprawl dissolving into countryside in mere seconds did little to set Tianjin’s cityscape apart from other Chinese cities.

But just a weekend there was enough remind me that at its core, Tianjin is a city unlike any other in China. Come to glimpse the relics of foreign imperialism, but don’t be fooled by their symbolism of dominance: Tianjin is striding forward at a pace that other cities can only dream of.

Getting there

Tianjin has its own international airport with daily flights to a host of Chinese cities, as well as other destinations in Asia. If you’re traveling from further afield, you can fly into Beijing airport, where a bus service will have you in downtown Tianjin in two hours. Most visitors will no doubt arrive on the high-speed train by far the easiest way to get to Tianjin a mere 30-minute ride from Beijing South Station, at a cost of 55 yuan (US$9).

Getting Around

Tianjin city center is quite compact, and most of it can be seen on foot in 2 or 3 days. Taxis are a dime a dozen, and fares are relatively inexpensive. Finding an English-speaking driver will be much harder though. The recently updated Tianjin Metro means that you can get to most of the city’s destinations for as little as 2 or 3 yuan (32 to 48 US cents).

Where to Stay

Tianjin has a wealth of hotels on offer, although budget travelers might find hostels harder to come by. Consider staying somewhere central anywhere around Nanjing Lu will be close to tourist attractions and good restaurants, and will have the best transport links.