芬兰首都赫尔辛基之旅

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芬兰首都赫尔辛基濒临波罗的海,是一座古典美与现代文明融为一体的都市,既体现出欧洲古城的浪漫情调,又充满国际化大都市的韵味,被世人赞美为“波罗的海的女儿”。洁净优美的环境让这座港口城市在英国《经济学家》杂志(The Economist)今年公布的世界宜居城市榜中位居

第七。

赫尔辛基也许不会让你一见钟情,但这个人口不足60万的城市并非平淡无奇。只要你用心体会,一定能够发现它的魅力。

Finland was not exactly the most logical place to end my nine-week 1)backpacking tour of Eastern Europe, but I’d received an invitation from my Parisian friend and former roommate Agathe to come and visit her new place of 2)residence, and I couldn’t resist such a golden travel opportunity.

From the moment I stepped off the airport 3)shuttle on the eastern side of Helsinki’s Railway Square, I felt small. In front of me, Helsinki Railway Station 4)dominated the square. Its distinguishing features are its clock tower and the two pairs of statues holding the 5)spherical lamps on either side of the main entrance. Everywhere I looked was a 6)succession of large and beautiful buildings.

Agathe would be at work until late afternoon, so I would explore a few of Helsinki’s cultural and historical highlights before meeting up with her.

For centuries, Helsinki has been a 7)strategic military center, due to its close 8)proximity to Russia, Germany and the Baltic countries. Founded by King GustavⅠof Sweden in 1550, Helsinki remained part of Sweden until Finland declared independence in 1917.

My first stop was one of Helsinki’s proudest historical landmarks Suomenlinna Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The fortress was built on six 9)interconnected islands, just 15 minutes by ferry from the mainland. It was designed to be the “Gibraltar of the North,” a 10)stronghold to protect the then-Swedish nation from the growing Russian threat.

To my eyes, Suomenlinna looked more like a peaceful suburb than a fortress. A school, a church, seven museums most of them related to the military, as well as a toy museum and several small shops were 11)scattered amid grassy hills surrounding the walls.

Parks and beaches provide numerous opportunities to enjoy the 12)serenity of the islands. I 13)strolled and enjoyed the 14)stunning views over the Gulf of Finland. Along the outer walls, aging cannons gazed out to sea, as if defending the islands against some 15)invisible enemy.

The afternoon was already 16)waning by the time I got back to the city center, so I called Agathe and arranged to meet her for a choir concert at the 17)intriguing Temppeliaukio (Rock Church).

Carved out of a solid rocky 18)outcrop in 1969, the dome-shaped church is famous for its excellent 19)acoustics. My footsteps echoed in the cave-like 20)interior, and the many candles burning in 21)sconces along the walls added to the 22)hushed atmosphere.

A local elementary school choir performed a variety of classical songs. The children were adorable, and I was interested to note that most were blond haired and blue eyed, like the majority of people I’d seen in Helsinki thus far. That morning, I’d seen so many tall, blond, beautiful people I’d begun to feel as if I’d walked into a Calvin Klein注 ad.

After the concert, Agathe and I walked along some of Helsinki’s main streets. Sidewalk cafes were filled with people sipping coffee, and the shopping district 23)buzzed with 24)pedestrians laden with bags. Most of the side streets were quiet and peaceful, the lack of pedestrians and traffic almost 25)unsettling to my city girl eyes.

This quiet proved to be 26)deceptive. As I learned that evening, Helsinki comes alive after dark, when young people head to the city’s many 27)bustling bars and nightclubs. By midnight, Agathe and I were standing in a long queue of well-dressed partiers outside a trendy nightclub.

Agathe and I danced with some Finnish girls most of the night, and had a few 28)giggles about the fact that, even with high heels, we were the shortest of the group.

At dawn, we found ourselves walking barefoot back to Agathe’s apartment, our shoes 29)dangling from our fingertips. Next time we go dancing all night in Helsinki, we promised, we’d wear sneakers.

The day before I returned home, I took the 30)elevator up to the terrace bar of the Sokos Hotel Torni, to get one last look of the city from above. Along the waterfront, the 31)choppy waters of the Gulf of Finland reflected the cloudy sky in 32)fragments, as if I were gazing into an 33)infinity of broken mirrors.

In front of me, the streets were silent once again. Yet inside those buildings, I knew, people drank and danced, ate and talked, made friends and fell in love. For those people, Helsinki was not just a place to visit. It was home.

虽然从逻辑上说,芬兰不该作为我这次九周东欧背包之旅的终点站,但是我在巴黎的朋友――也是以前的室友阿加特邀请我去参观她的新居,我无法拒绝这样一个旅行的黄金机会。

当我从机场穿梭巴士走下来,站在赫尔辛基火车站广场东面的那一刻开始,我便感觉到自己的渺小。在我面前,赫尔辛基火车站气势凌人地耸立在广场上。它最显著的特征是一座钟楼,以及在主入口两边那两对手捧球形灯的巨型雕像。目光所及之处都是一排排庞大而美丽的建筑物。

阿加特要到傍晚才下班。所以在和她见面之前,我可以自己先寻访赫尔辛基一些主要的文化历史景点。

几百年来,由于毗邻俄罗斯、德国和波罗的海周边国家,赫尔辛基一直是一个军事战略中心。1550年,瑞典国王古斯塔夫一世建立了赫尔辛基,此后它一直是瑞典的一部分,直到1917年芬兰宣布独立。

我的第一站是芬兰城堡,它是赫尔辛基最引以为傲的历史地标之一,也是联合国教科文组织(UNESCO)的世界遗产。芬兰城堡建于六个相连的岛上,从大陆坐渡船只需15分钟即可到达。其设计主旨是作为“北方的直布罗陀”,是一座保卫当时瑞典王国的堡垒,用以抵御日渐壮大的俄国的威胁。

在我眼中,芬兰城堡看起来更像是一片宁静的郊区,而不是一座堡垒。在围墙四周绿草如茵的山坡上零星分布着一所学校、一座教堂、七座博物馆(其中大多与军事有关,当中有一座是玩具博物馆),还有几间小商店。

公园和海滩让人们可以尽情享受海岛的宁静。我信步徜徉,欣赏着芬兰湾动人的美景。沿着外面的围墙,沧桑的加农炮眺望着大海,仿佛在守卫这些海岛免受某个看不见的敌人的侵扰。

回到市中心时,我已经打发掉一个下午的时间。于是我打电话给阿加特,与她约在引人入胜的岩石教堂见面,去听一场唱诗班的音乐会。

1969年,人们从一块突出地面的坚硬岩石里雕凿出了这座圆顶形教堂,绝佳的音响效果使其闻名遐迩。我的脚步声在洞穴似的教堂里面回荡。沿着墙壁分布的烛台上点燃着许多蜡烛,使之更增添了一层肃穆宁静的气息。

当地一所小学的唱诗班演唱了各种古典歌曲。孩子们都很可爱,我也注意到一件有趣的事情――大部分孩子都是金发碧眼,就像我到现在为止在赫尔辛基见到的大多数人一样。那天早上,我看见太多身材高挑、头发金黄的帅哥美女了,以至于觉得自己好像走进了卡尔文・克莱恩的广告中。

音乐会结束以后,阿加特和我一起走在赫尔辛基一些主要的街道上。路边的咖啡店坐满了啜饮咖啡的人,购物区里则满是提着大包小包的行人。大部分的小街都很安静,稀疏的行人和交通让我这个城市女孩感到有点无所适从。

然而,这种宁静只是一种假象。我在那天晚上才知道,赫尔辛基要到入夜以后才会展现生机。这时,年轻人会涌向市内许多热闹的酒吧和夜总会。午夜时分,阿加特和我已经站在一家时髦的夜总会外面,排在一条长长的人龙里,而排队的都是打扮得光鲜亮丽的派对爱好者。

晚上的大部分时间,我们都在和几个芬兰女孩跳舞,还取笑自己即使穿上高跟鞋,也依然是人群里最矮的两个。

直到黎明,我们才打着赤脚走回阿加特住的公寓,鞋子挂在手指尖上晃晃悠悠。我们发誓,下次在赫尔辛基通宵跳舞的时候一定要穿运动鞋。

回家的前一天,我乘电梯来到索考斯高档酒店的天台酒吧,从高处眺望这个城市最后一眼。芬兰湾的码头区里,涌动的海浪倒映着阴云密布的天空的碎影,我觉得自己像是在凝视着无数片破碎的镜子。

在我眼前的那些街道再次陷入沉默。然而我知道,在那些楼房里面,人们开怀畅饮,欢歌热舞,谈天说地;他们结交朋友,堕入爱河。对他们而言,赫尔辛基不只是一个旅游目的地,而是自己的家园。

相关链接:赫尔辛基主要景点

芬兰城堡(Suomenlinna)

芬兰城堡位于赫尔辛基南岸的岛屿,始建于1748年,由六个岛屿组成。芬兰城堡是赫尔辛基的一颗明珠,镶嵌在大海中一片美丽的绿洲之上。芬兰城堡是世界最大的海上军事要塞之一,要塞的构筑非常复杂,有明垒、暗堡和炮塔。1991年,芬兰城堡被列为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产。

议会广场和大教堂(Senate Square and Cathedral)

赫尔辛基最著名的建筑群,要属位于市中心参议院广场上的赫尔辛基大教堂及其周围淡黄色的新古典主义风格的建筑。大教堂前是参议院广场,东西两侧分别为内阁大楼和赫尔辛基大学,南面不远处是总统府、最高法院和市政厅所在地。在铺满古老石块的参议院广场中心竖立着建于1894年的沙皇亚历山大二世铜像,以纪念他给予芬兰充分的自治。广场位于卡乌帕多利广场北边,是一处正方形的美丽广场。在昼长夜短的夏季,广场常常是许多露天音乐会及其他表演的最佳场地。

大教堂是赫尔辛基最著名的建筑,位于议会广场,是一座路德教教堂。乳白色的大教堂建于1852年,其结构之精美、气宇之非凡,堪称芬兰建筑艺术的精华。大教堂顶端是带淡绿色圆拱的钟楼,高出海平面80多米,在大海上一眼便能看见,使之成为赫尔辛基的象征,也是赫尔辛基市的重要地标。大教堂希腊神殿式的白色柱廊及醒目的青铜圆顶,高高地耸立在上百阶的阶梯上,无论你走在市区的哪一个角落皆可望见其独一无二的身影。

岩石教堂(Temppeliaukion Church)

岩石教堂在欧洲闻名遐迩,是赫尔辛基最具特色、最受欢迎的景点之一。教堂是从一整块岩石中开凿而成,设计极为新颖巧妙,于1969年完工。教堂深深地嵌入岩石之中,屋顶采用巨大的圆形穹顶设计,由100条放射状的梁柱支撑,同时镶上透明玻璃,采光极佳,其余的壁面仍保有原始的岩石。教堂入口走廊为隧道状,入口处则涂以混凝土,古朴的设计中蕴含着精美的雕琢。教堂除了举行各种宗教仪式,还是婚礼和各种音乐会的首选地。教堂呈环形,声音效果极佳,非常适合小型乐队和无伴奏合唱团进行演出。

乌斯别斯基东正教教堂(Uspenski Orthodox Church)

该教堂是斯堪的纳维亚半岛上最大的希腊东正教教堂。教堂红砖尖塔,设计巧妙,外观醒目,具有浓郁的莫斯科建筑风格。教堂内有蛋彩的基督像及12门徒的壁画。

西贝柳斯公园(Sibelius Park)

西贝柳斯公园坐落在市中心西北面,那里绿荫成林,青翠欲滴。在青松翠柏的环抱之中,耸立着芬兰著名作曲家西贝柳斯纪念碑。纪念碑造型犹如芬兰茂密的森林,因为森林给予西贝柳斯无穷的创作灵感,也是西贝柳斯音乐作品的主题之一。高高低低、错落有致的纪念碑由600余根银白色不锈钢管组成,造型犹如漫无边际的森林,同时还酷似一架巨型管风琴,成为这位芬兰音乐史上伟大的民族音乐家不朽作品的象征。

(资料来源:芬兰国家旅游局)