“你我茶燕”在都市里奋飞

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燕去燕又回，花开花又落。骄阳似火的夏日，青山绿树环绕的西湖“香风徐来，水波不兴，绿盖红衣，照灼云日”，如果此时在湖畔泡上一杯香茗，赏赏湖中“千层翠盖万红妆”的荷花，定会使您心旷神怡，情趣无限。

乙酉早春，正是西湖莺飞草长、杨柳泛绿的好时节。杭州玉古路163号一家以“你我茶燕”命名的茶馆开张迎客。这家茶馆虽然经营面积不大，但是装修颇有自己的特色：它高贵典雅，精致婉约，不似宾馆却胜似宾馆，服务热情，体贴温馨，真可谓是一家情景交融、富有诗意的茶馆。

“茶馆不仅是休闲的场所，也是人与人沟通的桥梁。因此茶馆首先要与客人真诚的沟通与交流，努力营造出一种宾至如归的感觉。”这是“你我茶燕”主人倪晓英开茶馆的初衷，也是她一直不懈追求的目标。

当倪晓英聊起“你我茶燕”的时候，特别强调人与茶、人与茶馆之间的和谐关系。她认为茶馆应该符合现代消费观念，给客人提供清新、简洁的环境，让更多的人了解茶文化，热爱茶文化。

倪晓英过去那段与茶至深的缘分，让她至今还铭记不忘。倪晓英从原来的浙江农业大学茶学系毕业后，1982年被分配到诸暨茶厂工作三年后调到杭州茶厂从事出口茶叶的品质鉴定工作，一干就是七个年头。1992年她到浙江第一出口茶厂担任销售科长，在这人生最宝贵的十几年里，她与茶结下了不解之缘。从最初的茶叶制作到后来的负责茶叶销售，再到最后自己创办“你我茶燕”，倪晓英把茶看作是自己的终身“朋友”。经过多年的艰辛努力，凭着对茶文化执著的追求和深刻的理解，她“突发奇想”，决定自己开座茶馆，既能给茶客提供一处清静休闲的场所，也可以发挥自己的特长，为弘扬茶文化作点贡献。于是，一家不到200平方米的小小“你我茶吧”1997年在风光旖旎的西子湖畔湖滨路口开张了。由于经营管理有方，服务诚恳热情，深得客人厚爱和同行肯定。1999年，在杭州市首届茶文化节上“你我茶吧”被评为“杭州十佳温馨茶楼”，其颇有创意的茶艺表演“幽兰出谷”连续两届夺得“金冠奖”、“银冠奖”，同时还被中国茶叶博物馆吸收为向中外客人介绍和献演的特色茶艺。

今日湖滨路多了一些豪华型的商店的特色店家，昔日的“你我茶吧”不见了，这让一些钟情于它的茶客惋惜和惆怅。如今，继承了中西合璧的“你我茶吧”风格又高于“你我茶吧”，别有风情的“你我茶燕”终于和茶人及广大的茶客见面了!“你我茶燕”是倪晓英花了一年的时间，经过细心酝酿和精心装修于今年春节亮相的。它圆了钟情于“你我茶吧”老茶客的梦，使人们那份若有所失的温情重又找到了寄托，并有了更深入的延续。

“你我茶燕”沿袭了“你我茶吧”典雅精致、舒适温馨的风格，在经营面积近500平方米的茶馆里，将我国传统的茶文化和西方现代的酒吧文化融于一体，体现出一种中西合璧、独具匠心的休闲风格。当我们推开虚掩的门，仿佛走进了一家高星级的宾馆，茶馆的每一个细微之处都透露出欧式格调，让人不禁惊叹中国传统的茶文化还可以与洋气十足的外国文化如此巧妙的结合。地面上铺着的淡蓝色地毯是请专业师傅用纯羊毛手工编织的，墙上的外国抽象画是由中国美术学院的教授精心创作的。大厅中央展台上陈列展出十余套精美茶具，在橘黄色灯光的照射下闪闪发亮，那是用来喝功夫茶的，这些茶具大多数是日本、韩国著名的茶艺专家、香气专家赠送给“你我茶燕”的。这里装修的每一个细节，都体现着茶馆主人的文化修养。倪晓英把自己多年的珍藏也都在这里展示出来，希望以此与有共同爱好的广大茶友互相切磋，互相交流，同时也把中国博大精深的茶文化展示给每一位来“你我茶燕”的尊贵客人。

“你我茶燕”拥有近百个座位，茶馆内大到包厢的装潢、布置，小到一套茶具的摆放，倪晓英都是自己亲历亲为，对每个细小的地方都丝毫不敢粗心。她经常这样告诫自己，也时常提醒自己的员工：“你我茶燕”就是要营造一种温馨的氛围，使来这里的客人像回家一样。茶馆内有七八个各具特色的包厢，大的可以坐三五好友聚会聊天，小的只可容纳情侣窃窃私语，每个包厢不但有各自不同的设计和布置，而且还有颇具韵味的名字，如“丹桂临风”、“幽兰出谷”、“红梅傲雪”、“玫瑰钟情”、“百合情缘”等。透明晶莹的桌上摆放着洁净整齐的茶具，在紫色的灯光下耀眼夺目，几张对称摆放着的柔软沙发和顶篷紫色的纸制手扎灯笼给整个包厢增添了几许亲切和舒适，加上角落的那一盆盆生机勃勃的翠竹，把四周点缀得更加绿意盎然。无论是第一次来的客人，还是对“你我茶燕”有着深厚感情的老茶客，每来一次都会有不一样的感受。茶馆的玻璃门设计同样十分考究，上面雕刻了数十个用楷书、行书、隶书、草书、篆书等不同字体书写的“茶”字，旁边的玻璃窗用古代的仕女图巧妙地装饰起来，既显得美观大方，又保留了包厢客人的私密空间。入夜时分，休闲桌上点起盏盏烛灯，在淡淡的烛光里，桌上的鲜花、烛光与灯光相映成趣，加之耳边悠扬的萨克斯音乐，不经意中一股浪漫的温情便在“你我”之间缓缓地荡漾开来……

“你我茶燕”名茶荟萃。它汇集了红茶、绿茶、乌龙茶、花茶、保健茶等类50余种纯正地道的茶叶，有属于贡品级的“极品龙井”、“大红袍”，有采自高山的“羊岩兰花”，还有“碧螺春”、“武夷肉桂”、“铁观音”以及“苦丁茶”、“普洱茶”等各类保健茶。此外，茶馆还引进了韩国的饼茶、日本的樱花煎茶、德国的花果茶、夏威夷的冰茶、斯里兰卡的红茶等。你有雅兴，还可以一边品茗啜饮，一边欣赏精湛的茶艺表演。

“你我茶燕”与众不同的是，它把茶文化与饮食文化有机结合，相得益彰。茶馆特聘了广东点心师，每天推出五款不同类型的港式点心和甜品，茶点都是每天当场现做，确保了茶点的新鲜可口。一道道现做的点心，热气腾腾，清清爽爽地送到桌边，体现着人文的关怀以及对每一位客人的尊重，让人倍感亲切。这种以茶会友的方式招徕生意，很有人情味，颇有亲和力。“你我茶燕”近靠黄龙体育中心，离浙江大学不远，人们在观看精彩赛事和投入紧张的学习之余，到这里来喝茶聊天，无车马之喧，闹中取静，让人一洗风尘，因此虽然开张不久，却生意红红火火，以一枝独秀于杭州茶馆之林。

Her Ambition is a Cup of Tea

By Xiao Yin, Ying Hao

Ni Xiaoying has been in the tea business for a long time. A tea major from Zhejiang Agricultural University, Ni was assigned in 1982 to work in a tea processing factory for three years before she came to work as a quality inspector for Hangzhou Tea Factory. There she supervised tea products for overseas market for seven years. In 1992 she was promoted to a sales manager position at Zhejiang First Export Tea Factory. In probably the best ten years and more in her life, she was deeply immersed in tea and became quite familiar with the quality, aroma, and taste of various teas. In those years she delved into tea and tried hard to find ways to best promote tea as a culture and a way of life.

All these naturally led to the teahouse she set up in 1997. It was located on the Lakeside Road, presumably the best place for a cup of tea in the downtown Hangzhou. The 200-square-meter teahouse, calledou and I Teahouse? became popular with customers and peers in the city’s teahouse industry. Excellent service won the hearts. In 1999, the teahouse was awarded as one of the top ten teahouses in Hangzhou at the 1st Tea Culture Festival. Her teahouse’s tea performance entitled ragrant Orchids out of Valley?won two top awards at the two consecutive festivals. The China Tea Museum took it into its repertoire for domestic and overseas tea aficionados.

Unfortunately, the teahouse was later dismantled for making room for a large-scale downtown refurbishment program.

Today, one year after her first teahouse, she has set up another teahouse to embody her best expertise of tea business. Though it is located in a place away from the downtown Hangzhou, it is better decorated and much larger. The nearly 500-square-meter teahouse inherits the elegance, comfort, sweetness, and sophistication seen in her first teahouse. Patrons often wonder how the Chinese tea culture is so amazingly fused with a luxurious western atmosphere at her teahouse. The light blue wool carpet was custom-made for the teahouse. Abstract paintings were created by professors at China Fine Arts Academy. On the central display table are a dozen of exquisite tea sets, --gifts mostly from Japanese and Korean tea experts.

And the new teahouse has a new name: ou and I, Tea and Swallow? something that reminds one of Ni’s prosperous beginning in the business. Her DIY attention to all the details has remained unchanged. Private rooms of different sizes cater to different needs. And each gets a poetic name. All the glass doors are engraved with the Chinese character 茶 (Tea) in various calligraphic styles.

Of course, a cup of tea is the most important offering in a teahouse. Ni’s tea-list has 50-plus tea drinks in eight categories. These tea beverages are not merely homemade ones. Some are from overseas.

One of the important factors that makes Ni’s teahouse stand out is she offers more than just tea. A chef from Guangdong Province makes delicious dim sums. Five different Hong Kong-styled dim sums and desserts are offered every day.

All this contributes to the reputation and prosperity of Ni’s new tea venture.

(Translated by David)