陈宗懋为中国茶执言
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中国的13亿人口中，被尊称为“两院院士”的只有1300余位；在这1300余位两院院士中，与历史悠久的中国茶有关的院士，迄今为止的第一位也是唯一的一位就是陈宗懋先生。
品茶，谈论茶文化，对今天的杭州人而言是一件既时尚又平常的事，因为杭州有“中国茶都”之称，更因为中国唯一的茶院士陈宗懋就工作生活在杭州。
位于杭州云栖的中国农科院茶叶研究所，是陈宗懋院士工作了近半个世纪的地方，虽然现在的他已年逾古稀，早已从所长的岗位退休，但他在国际茶叶界的声望让他退而不能休，他至今还担任着中国茶叶学会名誉理事长。尤其是2003年当选为中国工程院院士以来，他绝大部分时间和精力都在为中国茶奔走呼号，足迹所至不仅仅在中国，更有世界各地的远行。
在印尼会议上据理力争
和陈院士接触过的人都说他是位谦谦君子，对人总是和蔼可亲，笑口常开。可在国际上讨论有关饮茶安全的场合，他却是一个为中国利益据理力争、振臂高呼的“斗士”。
2005年7月，世界上很多人对印尼那场毁灭性的海啸还心有余悸之时，陈院士却要去那里参加联合国第16届政府间茶叶会议。
陈院士并不想去那个多处留有海啸痕迹的地方。可为了国家利益，他必须去，因为不参与就没有发言权，如果不去参加，在有着众多茶叶生产国和消费国参与的全球性茶事盛会上，就缺失了中国的声音。
这是陈院士第四次参加联合国政府间茶叶会议。第11届至第13届他都参加了，在第12届会议上陈院士争取到了世界银行60万美元的拨款和一大笔贷款用于中国茶叶研究。
7月的印尼气温酷热，可比气温更热的是联合国第16届政府间茶叶会议的气氛，生产国和消费国双方唇枪舌剑争论不休，争论的重点是茶叶的农药残留标准。
会场上响起了中国的声音。陈宗懋院士发言，提出如果农药残留没有一个统一标准，长此以往将影响全世界的茶叶生产，他说：“就像球场裁判不能由参赛球队的人来担任，农药残留标准也应该由一个既不是生产国、也不是消费国的裁判来主持公道，我认为CCPR(世界卫生组织的机构)来担任这个裁判最为合适。”
一片赞同声。陈院士的发言引起肯尼亚、斯里兰卡、印度和印尼等国的代表相继发言，一致赞成并附议陈院士的建议。
听着这些国家代表的发言，陈院士很高兴，茶叶生产国终于联合起来了。虽然这次会议尚未彻底解决关于农药残留的标准问题，但是中国作为世界上年产量第一的茶叶生产大国，发出了自己的声音。
“没有数据，就不是科学”
炎夏过后是金秋，转眼间又进入了严冬。
2005年12月6日陈院士飞赴意大利，作为第16届政府间茶叶会议的延续，罗马会议的主题还是农药残留标准，而陈院士又一次为中国茶奔走呼号。
室外寒风凌厉，冰天雪地；室内发言声此起彼伏，热气腾腾。
英美法德等茶叶消费国坚持，为了保护本国人民的身体健康，茶叶中的农药残留标准必须很严格，否则就是侵害了消费者的权益。而中国、肯尼亚、斯里兰卡、印度和印尼等茶叶生产国要求消费国拿出有关喝茶有可能影响健康的具体数据来，没有数据，就不是科学。
双方争论不可开交，最后联合国粮农组织代表出面作了协调，确定了极其关键的三点：一、必须制定全球性的通用标准，而不是仅由某一国家或国际组织说了算；二、各生产国提出要用的农药名单及建议标准，最后由CCPR来审定；三、在三年内制定出国际标准。
虽然据理力争很累，但是陈院士看到了农药残留标准的“柳暗花明又一村”。而他提出的在中国使用的10种农药，都将由他牵头来进行实验。
陈宗懋院士是中国最先对茶叶农药残留进行微量分析的专家。20世纪60年代国内茶叶农药残留分析还是个空白，陈宗懋便率先开始了此项技术研究。他最近在搞的科研课题，是研究“茶园内以化学生态防治为内容的综合治理”，通俗地说就是搞清楚茶树、害虫、天敌之间的关系开展生物防治，以少用化学农药从而减少残留。
为什么茶叶的农药残留问题近年来特别让人关注，是不是超标真的越来越严重?陈院士告诉大家，1999年中国加入世贸组织前，欧盟就大幅度调整农药残留标准，检测的农药品种原先只有7种，后调整为63种，2004年增加至173种，至今已经多达182种。如氰戊菊酯类农药在1999年6月30日至7月1日，标准一天骤变。相隔一天，标准竟然相差100倍，仅氰戊菊酯一项，就卡住中国30％的茶叶不能出口欧盟。
为了维护中国的利益，陈宗懋积极和欧洲茶叶委员会联系，以科学数据为武器，经过长达数年的交涉，并提交了数百页的实验资料。1999年他领导的实验室被欧盟确定为中国唯一的向欧盟出口茶叶检测农药残留的实验室。
中国茶叶的种植面积为世界第一，2005年茶叶年产量有85．2万吨，也为世界第一。陈院士说，如果出口不受农药残留等的影响，年产量达到90万吨也没问题。
杭州龙井茶的“卫士”
中国大众听说陈宗懋其人其事，是在2004年的1月初，在他当选为2003年度的中国工程院院士之后。如果仅仅是当选院士，那也仅在科技界和新闻界有点热闹，让陈院士一下子闻名遐迩，是杭州龙井茶铅超标事件。2003年12月，央视报道了卫生部公布的2003年全国茶叶卫生质量监督抽检结果，杭州龙井茶因铅项目指标不合格被列入“黑名单”，这个突然消息顿时引起了国内外方方面面的高度关注。
大多数人喝绿茶，总以为是汤色绿才为上好，却不料太绿的绿茶很有可能含铅过高。尤其最近一两年来，茶叶中铅含量过高的问题屡遭媒体曝光，强烈地刺激着大众的神经。对沸沸扬扬的议论，陈院士作了权威：“只要不是人为添加，风险性分析表明茶叶中含有的一点铅无碍人体健康。”
对杭州龙井茶因铅项目指标不合格的原因，陈院士一针见血地指出：“这是因为中国的检测标准过严。”他解释说：“按我国现行标准，规定每公斤茶叶中的含铅量不得超过2毫克，而同一项目日本的标准是25毫克，加拿大、澳大利亚是10毫克，所以中国执行的是全世界最严的标准。”
欧盟对盟内国家茶叶中的含铅量检测标准是5毫克／公斤，但对中国的茶叶却是按照2毫克／公斤的标准执行，有一批中国出口茶叶因含铅每公斤2．5毫克被欧盟退货。陈院士听说后和欧盟有关方面论理，理由是这没超过欧盟的标准。可那些人说：“既然超出了你们国家的标准，怎么还能出口?”为此，陈院士曾多次呼吁中国要尽快修订标准。2005年9月中国已修改了茶叶中铅含量的标准，这样中国茶叶含铅超标率会大大降低。
媒体有报道说2005年绿茶产品质量抽查合格率为90％，在这次公布的国家监督抽查质量较好的绿茶名单上，杭州西湖龙井茶名列第一。自2003年底杭州西湖龙井茶“背上黑锅”后，这次终于扬眉吐气。
三片细小茶叶见真情
陈宗懋先生主编过《中国茶经》和《中国茶叶大辞典》，这是他在茶学研究中辛勤耕耘的累累硕果。在陈宗懋先生的名片上，最显眼夺目的不是“中国工程院院士”的头衔而是茶叶：名片所有的文字为黑色，只有三片细小的茶叶是青翠欲滴的绿色，这绿色向众人叙述着中国唯一“茶院士”的人生经历。1933年10月陈宗懋出生于上海，他的老家是在浙江海盐；1950年17岁的陈宗懋准备报考复旦医学院，到了报名地点他看到有两支队，一支队很长人很多，一支队相对人少一点，于是陈宗懋就站在了人少的那一队。到了跟前他才知道这是报考农学院的。就这样，“站错了队”的陈宗懋选定了自己的终身职业；1954年陈宗懋分配到位于黑龙江的中国农科院甜菜研究所。他从小生活在上海，东北寒冷的气候让他很难适应。1960年2月他调到杭州的中国农科院茶叶研究所，从此与茶树植保结下了不解之缘，也与杭州结下了不解之缘。
今天的陈院士有个心愿：由于联合国政府间茶叶会议的会址一届又一届均选择在其他国家，这样重要的会议从来没有在茶叶的原产国中国召开过，所以陈院士想争取在中国举办一次这样的会议。在他看来，如果能在西湖龙井茶的原产地杭州举办一次联合国政府间的茶叶会议，那肯定是一件很有意义的事。
成天为茶事奔忙的陈院士的爱好是收藏各国的硬币，已有100多个国家的各种硬币被他收入囊中。以前他常常憧憬着退休后可以把玩着一个个材质、制作都大相径庭的硬币，回忆着自己去有关硬币的国家的经历和故事，可惜这样的日子对陈院士而言至今还依然是一种憧憬。
好在妻子酷爱越剧，并且带动陈院士也渐渐地喜欢看越剧。在为中国茶事奔走呼号的辛苦间隙中，品尝一杯清茶，欣赏一出越剧，就成为陈院士心旷神怡的时刻了。
Academician of Tea in Hangzhou
By Feng Yingping
Of the 1.3 Chinese billion people, merely over 1,300 are academicians of either China Academy of Sciences or China Academy of Engineering. Of the altogether little more than 1,300 academicians, only one specializes in tea. This is Chen Zongmao (born in 1933).
It is no surprise at all that Hangzhou, officially designated as the tea capital of China recently, is where Chen Zongmao lives and works. After working at a national tea research institute in Hangzhou for nearly half a century and elected as an academician of China Academy of Engineering in 2003, Chen is now retired. Yet, as honorary director of China Tea Association and vice president of International Tea Association, Chen spends much of his time promoting Chinese tea. For this purpose, he frequently travels overseas.
In July 2005, Chen attended the 16th Session of Intergovernmental Group on Tea in Indonesia, when many people were still panicking at the devastating tsunami that had hit the country. At the meeting, Tea producers and consumer countries debated heatedly on the standard maximum pesticide residues in tea. On behalf of China, the largest tea producer in the world, Chen proposed that CCPR, an institute under WHO, should formulate a uniform standard. This proposal united the producers. In December 2005, Chen Zongmao attended another UN meeting on tea in Rome to address the issue of pesticide residues. America and European countries insisted that the standard should be as rigorous as possible so as to protect consumer rights and interests. China and other producing countries held that consumer countries must come up with scientific data in their support of a rigorous standard. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN mediated and a three-point agreement was reached. China's proposal was absorbed in the agreement that a universal standard would be formulated and approved by CCPR within the next three years on the basis of individual recommendations from producer countries.
Chen Zongmao is China's leading scientist in the microanalysis of pesticide residues in tea. In the 1960s Chen pioneered the microanalysis technology on Chinese tea. As EU has set up stricter standards for tea imports, China needs to talk with EU on the grounds of tea sciences. In order to protect the interests of Chinese tea farmers, Chen provided hundreds of pages of research data and negotiated with EU over years. In 1998, the European parliament adopted a set of new standards and Chen's laboratory was recognized by EU as China's only laboratory for testing pesticide residues for exported tea.
China produced 852,000 tons of tea in 2005. Chen said that the output could easily reach 900,000 tons a year if exports would not be held back by the problem of pesticide residues.
However, it is not that China's tea has a serious problem with pesticide residues. It is that China now uses a stricter standard than that adopted by EU. In 2003, CCTV reported that the Ministry of Health published a list of tea products that were not up to the national standard. Dragon Well Tea, presumably the country's best known green tea produced in Hangzhou, was blacklisted for its excessive lead residue. Chen explained that the current Chinese standard for maximum lead residue is 2 milligrams per kilogram of tea while it is 25 milligrams in Japan and 10 milligram in Australia and Canada. The EU standard for maximum lead residue is 5 milligrams per kilogram of tea for EU producers, 2 milligrams for tea from China. One lot of tea imported from China was rejected by EU because the lead residue was 2.5 milligrams. Chen argued with EU experts that this was unfair. In order to solve this problem, Chen has suggested to the government that China should adopt a new standard that synchronizes with EU's standard.
In 2005, Dragon Well Tea came out first in a nationwide quality inspection by the government.
An authority on tea, Chen was editor-in-chief of two national academic dictionaries on tea. However, he chose agriculture for his career by mistake. In 1950, the 17-year-old Chen wanted to study medicine. At a college application spot, he saw two queues and joined the shorter one. It turned out that the shorter queue was for an agricultural college. So he applied for studying agriculture. After graduation, he worked six years in Heilongjiang Province in northeast China before being transferred to Hangzhou in 1960, thus starting his career as a tea researcher.
Chen Zongmao has a dream: he wants Hangzhou to host a session of Intergovernmental Group on Tea. It would be of great significance to have such a meeting in Hangzhou, home of Dragon Well Tea.
Chen has a large collection of coins. The hobby is a side product of his extensive overseas travels. He once dreamed that after his retirement he would have a lot of time to spend on the coins and the pleasure of retrospection of their stories during his overseas travels. What pity it is that he is too busy for that. However, he is beginning to pick up his wife's hobby: listening to Yue Opera, a local drama tradition in Zhejiang Province.
(Translated by David)