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浙江湖州历来是一座慢生活的城市，民风优雅清远，其辖下原吴兴地域可称典型。这一带的人喜静不喜闹，即便过春节，与其他地方相比，年味确是轻了一点，但很有特色。他们常挂在嘴上的是“安耽”，所谓的“安耽”也就是图省事，比如近年亲戚间拜年，都是几家约着吃顿饭就省去了一一地走。但即使这样，他们对于“拜年老爷”还是很看重的。年前家家户户都在准备这件事红灯笼一街闪闪情，其实就是一个仪式，摆放一桌子的东西，全家逐一跪拜祈求来年幸福安康、财源广进。当然作为乡村人，还要求田地丰收、蚕桑高产。
“拜年老爷”的习俗主要涉及的地域范围是原吴兴区善琏镇、练市镇、千金镇东部一带。
相传以前这里没有拜年老爷这个习俗。有一回，有人奔走相告有个神仙要路过此地，家家户户都准备起丰盛的饭菜，想要把这个神仙请回自己家来过年。有一个青年家里太穷，实在是拿不出像样的菜来招待神仙，只好炒了一盘子腌菜。这位神仙吃厌了家家户户的鱼肉荤腥，觉得还是腌菜清鲜爽口，于是就让这小伙子财运亨通。小伙子第二年发了财，决心要报答神仙，于是准备了满满一桌的山珍海味。但是这一年，每家都学年轻人，神仙挨家挨户吃到的都是腌菜，心里大为不爽，他到了小伙子家里发现满桌子的鱼肉时，又开怀了，心想：明年还是要让这小伙子升官发财。
从此，大家都跟着小伙子一样准备着，因为小伙子家里殷实了，所以每年都是大鱼大肉地过年，久而久之演化成了一个习俗。
“拜年老爷”所需之物是样样精细的。
第一样是神位。古镇的房子基本是坐北朝南的长条形状，前门进去是堂屋，堂屋朝南的墙上有一个两尺见方的小壁橱，里面放着土地和家神的神位。神位是用火柴盒衬着用红纸包折出来的，一式两份。一份写着“家堂众神”，一份写着“土地正神”。由此还伴随着祭祖的成分。
第二样是年糕。年糕是过年必备的吃食，一般能吃到清
A wall of red lanterns in Huzhou
明。年前就要准备好足量的米，再把它们打成年糕。白白胖胖一条条，热乎乎香喷喷。等凉透了，就用红绳子捆起来。当然，要像选美一样，选形状好的不拧巴的。桌子的前面两个角一边一捆，每捆八块，除了红绳，还要把红纸放在年糕上。
接下来是大三样：鸡、鱼和猪。鸡是要一只整鸡，拔毛，开膛，洗干净。鱼不杀不煮，是要一条活的，拿刀柄一敲鱼脑袋它就不那么扑腾了。猪，不可能是一只整猪，但是为了取一只整猪的意，就用一个猪头咬一条猪尾巴充当。根据当地的说法，这条猪尾巴治磨牙有奇效，就是在拜好年老爷之后，躲在门后面不让人知道自己偷偷吃掉。同样的，这三样上面分别放一张红纸头。这三样的边上还要放两根葱。
第四是南瓜元宵。一共做两盘，但是两盘不一样。一盘是底下一层是元宵（没馅的实心汤团），上面摆放着糯米粉仿大三样，就是鱼、鸡、猪头。鱼的做法是跟捏橡皮泥一样，用筷子点出眼睛，用剪刀剪出鳞片。另一盘同样的底下一层是元宵，上面一层是金黄的南瓜元宝了。对于小孩子来说，最快乐的莫过于给他一团面让他自己捏出个什么形状，等待蒸熟的时刻，咬一口，满嘴喷香。
最后的是一碗白米、一碗鸡血、一碗盐和一碗糖。
一切准备妥当之后，点上香烛，家里老小逐个作揖并且默念新年的愿望，祈求年老爷保佑。
“拜年老爷”的日子是不固定的，从腊月廿七到除夕都可以，通常大家就放在除夕，吃年夜饭前完成这个仪式。小孩子最期待的是除夕晚上的“提灯笼”。小孩子们在年夜饭之后会三五成群聚集起来，拎着红灯笼成为一个小队，每家每户去唱儿歌讨彩头，人家就会拿出糖果水果等等零食来分发。孩子们来了，人家不但不会嫌麻烦，还特别开心，孩子们越闹腾越好。唱的歌谣是当地话：“猫儿来，狗儿来，花蚕宝宝一同来……”夜渐深，爆竹渐歇，一个个红灯笼挂在檐下窗前，一街闪闪。
年初一早晨的食物，大人也是要特地备上的：枕头边放着糕，预示一年更比一年高。前一晚睡觉前，大人把孩子们
年货礼品店
Inside a shop: full of commodities for Spring Festival
收集到的零食糖果放在枕头边上，早上醒了不说话马上吃糖，讲出的话来也是甜味儿的。
还有一些习俗也很有趣。“洗年脚”就是除
夕晚上必须认认真真好好地洗脚，洗去尘埃洗去劳累，新的一年又要好好劳作。最有趣的算是用卫生纸给小孩儿擦嘴巴了。还不记事的小孩子最是讲话没遮拦，所以要用卫生纸给小孩儿擦嘴巴，就是当小孩儿屁股擦，万一小孩子说了不吉利的话也可以不作数了。
站在廊檐下，听到些喧嚣，闻到些年味儿，一抬头就看到一个个红火的灯笼……
(本文图片由齐扬提供)
The Unique Custom of
Spring Festival in Huzhou
By Shen Zhenzhen
Huzhou, a city in northern Zhejiang, is famous for its slow-paced lifestyle and simple social climate. Wuxing, previously a county for about 1,800 years and now an urban district of the central city, stands out in particular as a place that emphasizes a peaceful and quiet lifestyle. To enjoy such a lifestyle, local people sometimes go so far as to simplify some Spring Festival celebrations. Unlike most of its neighbors that somewhat go all out in celebration of the Spring Festival, Wuxing celebrates the traditional Chinese New Year in a relatively quiet way. However, they spare no efforts to conduct a ceremony at home in honor of Lord New Year.
“Praying to Lord New Year” in Wuxing is much like a ritual. The
date people hold it is not fixed and any day between the 27th day of
the twelfth lunar month and New Year’s Eve will do. On the big day every family sets up a table. After food is placed on the table, fam-ily members one by one kneel to pray for happiness, peace, health, good harvest and wealth of the whole family in the coming New Year.
An interesting local folktale explains how the rite started in Wux-ing. Once upon a time, people in Wuxing learned a god was to pass by. Every family except a poor young man prepared a big banquet to lure the god to come to their home. As he could not afford the expensive dishes, the poor young man offered a bowl of pickled vegetable, the only food available at home. Sated with luxurious banquets, the god found the young man’s pickles very tasty and refreshing. So the god granted the young man a great fortune in the coming year. In the following year, the young man wanted to thank
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the god’s kindness and prepared a feast while the rest of the fellow villagers only offered pickles to please the god. Again, the god en-joyed the young man’s offer the most and granted him a great for-tune for another year. From then on, every family in Wuxing would
first see what the lucky man prepared for the god and followed suit.
Since the man was now rich, he always prepared a feast. Gradually, what was offered during Spring Festival became a formula in the area.
Things to be offered to Lord New Year must be prepared with great care and concern.
The first is to prepare the small shrine. A closet on the southern wall of the front hall serves as the shrine. Inside are two paper tab-lets, one in honor of the god that takes care of the family, the other in honor of the god that takes care of the land where the house sits and the family works. The tablets are made of matchboxes and red paper.
The second thing is the homemade rice cake. It is a must-have for the Spring Festival. Eight rice cakes are tied up into a bundle with a piece of red string and two bundles are needed for the ritual, one for one corner of the table and each bundle covered with a piece of red paper. Usually, a family makes a large quantity of rice cakes to last until Qingming Festival in early April.
热闹新春 Crowds gather to celebrate Spring Festival.
灯笼店
Inside a Lantern Shop
The third thing to do is to present chicken, fish and pig for the rit-ual, usually known as Big Three. As a whole pig is too large for the table, a pig’s head with its tail stuffed in the mouth is presented as a symbol. A chicken must be killed and cleaned before the presenta-tion, but the fish must be fresh. The Big Three are covered with a piece of red paper and two scallions are placed beside the big three.
The forth things are two plates of dumplings made of pumpkin, topped with flour-made Big Three and the other flour-made gold ingots.
The last are a bowl of rice, a bowl of chicken blood, a bowl of salt and a bowl of sugar. When everything is in place, the family lights incense sticks and kneel to pray one by one in the order of from the oldest to the youngest.
Besides the “Praying to Lord New Year”, children in Wuxing District play with lanterns after the reunion banquet on the eve of the Spring Festival. After the banquet, children from different homes get together, each holding a lantern. Off they go from house to house, singing and asking for treats such as candies and snacks. People welcome children’s visit and are happy to give treats. At midnight, red lanterns hanging from eaves indicate that the New Year has arrived.