水下梦幻世界――畅游澳大利亚大堡礁

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在公海中央，船长把船停下――眺望四方，看不见半点陆地――然后，他让乘客们一个接一个跃入海里。过去，这种情景可能是倒霉旅客的恶梦；时至今日，在澳大利亚大堡礁的温暖气候中，这却是一种纯粹的幸福。

从跃入温暖海水的那一刻开始，我就知道这将会让我毕生难忘。大小不一、形状各异、色彩鲜艳的各种鱼儿，清澈透明的海水，还有那令人叹为观止的珊瑚，融合成一次非凡的体验。

我觉得自己与海洋融为一体，和那优哉游哉地在我身旁游过的鱼儿一样自在――它们一点儿也不怕身边的海洋邻居。我好像突然间潜进了一个巨大的水族箱。这就是探访澳大利亚大堡礁的游客可以期待的其中一种愉悦的体验――大堡礁是地球上受污染最少、最扣人心弦的地方之一。

体验大堡礁有好几种方式，可以从空中俯瞰、用自携式潜水呼吸器潜水，或者乘坐装有玻璃底板的船只游览，不过我和太太选择了用通气管潜水，这是目前最简单的游玩方式。通气管潜水是一种在几分钟内就可以掌握的技巧，能让人们最大程度地体验大堡礁的美妙。

前往大堡礁也有很多种方法，我们决定乘坐“大堡礁奋进号”。这艘小型游艇只能容纳160名乘客。

“大堡礁奋进号”从位于昆士兰州边远的北部城市凯恩斯出发，提供两种每周一次的巡游项目――向北四日巡游和向南三日巡游，或者是混合式七日巡游。我们选择了后者。

“大堡礁奋进号”途经一些大堡礁最美丽的景点。到达景点后，游客们只需带上各自的通气管或潜水呼吸设备，然后跳进海水里一览胜景。

被视为现代世界七大奇迹之一的大堡礁是唯一能够从外太空观察到的生命体。它沿着澳大利亚的海岸线绵延1500英里（2414千米），其形成可以追溯至50万年前。大堡礁是任何澳大利亚之旅都不可错过的亮点之一。

大堡礁由2500个单独的暗礁组成。这里生活着多达400种珊瑚，其中许多种珊瑚会发出美妙的荧光色彩。

自从那部迪士尼动画片（《海底总动员》）上映以后，寻找“尼莫”――也就是众所周知的小丑鱼――便成为了潜水者们最喜爱的“运动”。人们通常可以在珊瑚的缝隙里找到小心翼翼躲藏起来的尼莫。我们不止一次发现它，太幸运了。

有一次，我发现自己与一条潜伏在珊瑚礁边缘的礁鲨相距仅65英尺（约20米），但我一点儿也不觉得危险。礁鲨的攻击性不强，加上周围平静清澈的海水和安宁平和的环境，你自然不会觉得有任何危险。

对于那些想要干干爽爽地游览大堡礁的人，“大堡礁奋进号”为他们准备了一艘装有玻璃底板的小船。一位海洋生物学家会随程讲解旅途中看到的各种珊瑚和鱼类。

游艇除了在珊瑚礁景点停留外，还会前往敦克岛、菲兹罗伊岛和蜥蜴岛上的豪华度假胜地。在这里，游客们可以尽情享受酒店里设计华丽的游泳池。

旅程的另一个亮点是拜访历史上有名的库克敦，它位于凯恩斯以北214英里（344千米）处，以其发现者詹姆斯・库克

船长的名字命名。1770年，库克船长的船――也就是最初的“奋进号”在这里触礁，于是库克在此地避难，以修补船只。后来，这里就成为了库克敦。

作为澳大利亚北部最后一个文明边哨，这个小镇上有一座为纪念库克而建的博物馆，里面有库克船长向南方大陆进发的处女航中留下的物品。

无论是在巡游之前或之后，我都极力推荐大家游览凯恩斯市和邻近地区。这个地区有许多值得一看的景点，包括丛林般的雨林小道和壮丽的瀑布。其中最负盛名的是米拉米拉瀑布，它是昆士兰这个大州里被拍摄得最多的景点之一。

游览雨林和瀑布的最佳方式是乘坐“空中雨林观光缆车”，这是世界上距离最长的电力缆车路线。整个缆车系统延伸接近5英里（8千米），需要一个半小时才能坐完全程。缆车路线的尽头是一个名叫库兰达的迷人村庄，那里的旅游市场出售当地的小货物和土著艺术品。

凯恩斯市本身是一个欣欣向荣的旅游小镇。它拥有许多景点，包括大堡礁酒店赌场、有无数出售艺术品的市场摊档的皇家港口、查普凯土著文化公园、糖世界水上公园以及哈特利溪鳄鱼场。

而对于那些喜欢轻松休闲的人来说，棕榈湾和道格拉斯港的豪华度假圣地近在咫尺，从凯恩斯往北仅需一小时车程；两者都宣称拥有舒适优美的海滩和五星级度假村。

The captain brings the ship to a 1)halt in the middle of the high seas no land in sight in any direction and orders the passengers into the ocean, one by one. This scene may have been a nightmare for unlucky voyagers in days gone by, but in the 2)balmy conditions off Australia’s Great Barrier Reef in the present day, it is pure 3)bliss.

From the moment I jumped into the warm water, I knew this was an experience I would treasure. The brightly

colored fish of various sizes and shapes, crystal-clear

water and spectacular coral combined for a

magnificent experience.

I felt at one with the ocean, as much at home there as the fish that swam 4)blithely past me, showing

no fear of a fellow ocean 5)dweller. It was as if I had just dived into a giant 6)aquarium. Such are the

delights visitors can expect on Australia’s Great Barrier

Reef, one of the most unspoiled and fascinating spots on the planet.

There are several ways to experience the reef, including from the air, 7)scuba diving or in a glass-bottom boat, but my wife and I chose 8)snorkeling by far the easiest choice. Snorkeling is a skill that can be learned in only a few minutes, and is the 9)ultimate way to explore all the reef has to offer.

There are many ways to get to the reef; we decided

on a voyage on the Reef 10)Endeavour, a small cruise ship with a 11)capacity of only 160.

Sailing out of the city of Cairns, in far north Queensland, the Reef Endeavour has two weekly cruises a four-night trip north and a three-night

journey south or a combination over seven nights, to which we treated ourselves.

The Reef Endeavour sails to some of the most picturesque points on the reef, and passengers simply jump into the water with snorkeling or scuba equipment.

Regarded as one of the seven wonders of the modern world, the Great Barrier Reef is the only

living 12)organism that can be seen from outer space. Stretching some 1,500 miles along Australia’s

coastline, it dates back 500,000 years and is one of the highlights of any trip down under 注.

The reef is 13)comprised of 2,500 individual reefs, and is home to 400 species of coral, many with spectacular 14)fluorescent colors.

Trying to find “Nemo,” or the clown fish as he is officially known, has been a favorite “sport” for

snorkelers since the Disney movie. Nemo can be found hiding 15)discreetly in 16)cracks in the coral. We were lucky enough to spot him more than once.

17)At one point I found myself only 65 feet above a reef shark 18)lurking at the edge of the reef, but I never felt in any danger. The reef shark is quite harmless. With the calm, clear waters and the

19)serene surroundings, you just don’t feel in danger.

For those who prefer a drier view, the Reef

Endeavour also has a glass-bottom boat. A

20)marine biologist accompanies tours to tell about the many varieties of coral and fish on view.

In addition to stopping on the reef, the cruise visits luxurious 21)resorts on Dunk, Fitzroy and

Lizard Islands, where visitors are free to use the

hotels’ 22)superbly designed swimming pools.

Another highlight is a visit to historic Cooktown,

214 miles north of Cairns, named in honor of its founder, Captain James Cook. Cook’s ship, the

original Endeavour, ran 23)aground there in 1770, and Cook took 24)refuge in what became Cooktown to

repair the damage.

The town the last 25)outpost of civilization in northern Australia has a museum dedicated to Cook, including artifacts from his maiden voyage to the great southern land.

Before or after the cruise, I highly recommend

exploring in and around Cairns. The region 26)boasts many worthwhile sights, including junglelike

rainforest walks and massive waterfalls. The most famous of these, Milla Milla Falls, is among the most-photographed spots in the massive state of

Queensland.

The best way to see the rainforests and the

waterfalls is on the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, the world’s longest electronic 27)gondola ride. The system

extends nearly five miles and takes one and a half hours to complete. At the end of the ride is the

charming village of Kuranda, with its tourist markets selling local 28)wares and 29)Aboriginal artworks.

Cairns itself is a 30)thriving tourist town with many attractions, including the Reef Hotel Casino; Royal Harbour, with its numerous market 31)stalls selling arts and crafts; Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park;

Sugarworld Water Park; and Hartley’s Creek

Crocodile Farm.

For those who prefer taking it easy, the luxury resorts of Palm Cove and Port Douglas are an easy hour’s drive north of Cairns; both 32)lay claim to

spectacular beaches and five-star resorts.