跟随萨米人狩猎北极光
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读过《尼尔斯骑鹅旅行记》的人，有没有“像尼尔斯一样飞去拉普兰”的心愿？拉普兰在欧洲的最北部，大部分位于北极圈内。北京直飞赫尔辛基，或在哥本哈根转机到达赫尔辛基后，于Ivalo机场降落，就进入了拉普兰地区。虽不能骑鹅飞来，但长途飞行之后，拉普兰会以北极独有的风光等待你—纯白色的世界，冰与雪，松与柏。
拉普兰是一片辽远神秘的土地，这里除了有北极光出现，还生活着萨米人—他们是欧洲游牧民族的后裔，如今被称为“欧洲最后的土著”。直到21世纪的今日，萨米人依然远离喧嚣，在拉普兰饲养驯鹿，过着宁静质朴的生活。跟随萨米人体验北极光跃动的冬日，是别具浪漫的选择。
在北极圈乘坐驯鹿雪橇
在Ivalo夜晚追极光，冰天雪地的，白天能做什么呢？别担心，有趣的活动有很多。例如驯鹿雪橇。两个小时的雪橇体验，每人120欧元。尽管价格不菲，多数旅行者还是选择体验—原因简单：好不容易来到北极，谁不想亲眼看看圣诞老人的坐骑？
生活在芬兰的驯鹿常年在旷野中悠然散步，看起来很自由，但其实没有一只是野生驯鹿，全部是大范围放养的。放养人呢，当然是有“驯鹿民族”之称的萨米人。报名预约后，驯鹿牧场的主人会开车来酒店接游客。他们一身传统的萨米彩色服饰，长裤和靴子都是驯鹿皮制作的，配在一起帅极了。到达驯鹿牧场，大家首先需要更衣—换上更加保暖的蓝色连身羽绒服和专用雪地靴。两人乘坐一只雪橇，工作人员会按照乘客的体重、身高分配拉雪橇的驯鹿。等驯鹿站在眼前了，才忽然发现，这鹿的模样好生奇怪！如果不是头上的鹿角，这体型和粗脖子，简直就是小牛犊！可是，屁股上的尾巴倒是很坚持“鹿道”—短小利落，绝不似牛尾巴乱甩。
驯鹿雪橇队伍出发了！五六只驯鹿排成一队，每只鹿的身后拖着一只木制的雪橇。小鹿任劳任怨，低头负重，慢慢向前蹭，颇有老牛风范；驯鹿雪橇的队伍穿越松原，吱扭吱扭，吱扭吱扭。按说，驯鹿是圣诞老人的坐骑，应该跑得快才对。可凭它们拉雪橇的速度，大家对圣诞老人一夜间能送全世界孩子们礼物这事持严重怀疑……抬头忽见淡淡的彩虹挂在空中，笼罩着雪原之松。这清冽的空气、洁净的松原、淡淡的彩虹和耳边吱扭吱扭的雪橇声，是北极送给旅行者的最美礼物。
下雪橇后，萨米人拿来一小篮地苔植物。地苔是驯鹿最喜欢吃的食物，由旅行者送到小鹿嘴边，算是对刚才辛劳的嘉奖。喂过驯鹿，旅行者们也进入温暖的休息室，一面喝茶吃点心，一面听萨米妇人讲驯鹿的故事。萨米妇人会取出巨大的、形状夸张完美的驯鹿角给客人们看，据说它们的尺寸已经大到被吉尼斯纪录收录的程度。也有灵巧可爱的小鹿角，放在小孩子头上正正好。茶毕，每位客人都会得到一张驯鹿驾驭证，有效期5年。据说，如在野外遇到驯鹿，一晃此证，鹿就跪下让你骑！
Tips
着装推荐：上装推荐带防冻层的羽绒服+保暖衣+羊绒毛衣+围巾帽子。下装推荐棉毛裤+羊绒裤+驼绒棉裤+宽松的防风羽绒裤。
Dress： anti-cold down wadded coat + thermal wear + cashmere sweater + scarf and hat for the top； cotton trousers + cashmere trousers + camel wool padded cotton trousers + down wadded trousers.
Tips
在芬兰拉普兰地区的罗瓦涅米（Rovaniemi）以北8公里处的北极圈上，有一个圣诞老人村（Santa Claus's House）。每天都有游客来到这里一睹圣诞老人的真面容。
8 kilometers to the north of Rovaniemi， Lapland is the Santa Claus's House， which is visited all year round by tourists who wish to meet face to face with Santa Claus.
Have you ever wished to fly to Lapland when you read the Wonderful Adventures of Nils？ Mostly in the Arctic Circle， Lapland is at the north end of Europe. You can fly from Beijing direct or transfer via Copenhagen to Helsinki， and continue north for 2 hours until you reach Ivalo airport， the gateway to Lapland. Await you there is a world of pureness， of ice， snow， pine and cedar. In this vast and mystic land lives the Sami， the descendants of indigenous European herdsmen. Till today， the Sami still lead a simple lifestyle herding reindeer away from the bustle and hustle of cities. In the Lapland winter， we followed the Sami onto a romantic journey.
Reindeer Sledding
Don’t know what to do at daytime？ Don’t worry. There are plenty of interesting activities you could join in. On top of the list is Reindeer Sledding. Even though a 2 hour ride costs 120 Euros， most travelers to the North Pole would not hesitate to try out the ride of the Santa Claus.
The reindeer in Finland are often found roaming free， but they are not wild animals but owned and herded by the Sami people. We booked a reindeer safari for the first day and the owner of the reindeer farm dressed in colorful Sami traditional clothes and boots and trousers made of reindeer hide picked us up from the hotel. The first thing after we arrived at the farm was to change into a warmer one piece anti-cold down wadded coat and snowshoes. Each sleigh seats two passengers and is pulled by a reindeer assigned by the farm owner according to the weight and height of the passengers. At close range， the reindeer is quite odd-looking. Without the antlers， I might easily mistake it as a calf， except for its extremely short tail.
The safari set off with 5 to 6 reindeer in a row. They trudged ahead and took us across the pine tree forest as fast as a slow moving ox， which made us doubt how Santa Claus could send gifts to kids all over the world in this slow ride. But we enjoyed everything during the 2 hours-- the vague rainbow in the sky， the chilly air， the clean forest， the snow capped pine trees， and the squeak of snow.
After the ride， the Sami took out a basket of lichen for us to feed the reindeer. We then entered a warm lounge where we enjoyed refreshments and stories told by the Sami women. They showed us Guinness-record-size weird-looking antlers as well as cute little ones that could fit on a child’s head. In the end， each of us was given a reindeer ride license valid up to five years. It was said that if we show it to a reindeer in the wild， it will knelt down so we can ride on it.
跟着萨米人冰上垂钓
第二天要去的是一个叫做熊湖的地方。在拉普兰地区有很多可供冰上垂钓的湖泊，即使已经到北极圈的边缘，湖泊依然被绵延几公里的冰河森林包围着。一大早起来，向导带着大家认识当天的新朋友，一群哈士奇。和它们打完招呼后，向导说：驾驶着哈士奇雪橇需要不停的跟哈士奇“说话”，以免它们走神，领头的哈士奇Dash甚至可以在拉雪橇的过程中将草丛中的野兔拉出来并“就地处决”。向导说完，喊了一声“Hike”，哈士奇们就驾着车前进了，我们的雪橇也都跟在后面。
到达熊湖后，向导把装备发给大家，有带齿的橡胶靴子和一个装有饵料和食物的背包，还有一个橙色的钻孔器。大家都既兴奋又紧张的踏上冰湖，仔细聆听冰面会不会在自己脚下发出咯吱咯吱的声音，或许还在想象冰面裂开导致大家游冬泳的景象。向导突然打破沉默说“不要担心，冰面厚得可以承受一辆车”，大家还是一脸困惑的表情，于是他拿出钻孔器，大概5分钟，凿了一个洞。大家凑过去看，冰层大概有30～40cm厚，证明所有担心都是多余的。每年10月到3月是结冰面积最大的时候，成群的鲑鱼和彩虹鱼都会在湖中，可以看到很多人手里握着伏特加在此钓鱼。很快大家都找好自己的地点，凿好洞，时间都很短，不过却比想象中更费力。
然后大家拿出一个塑料钓鱼竿，还不到40cm长，像个玩具。接着，把假蠕虫放在钩子上，慢慢地把线放到冰洞中。按照向导说的步骤，一旦注意到线已经触及到湖的底部了，就回收半米线，锁上滑轮。据说，钓鱼主要是99%的运气和1%的技术，比如彩虹鱼总是成群的在同一个地方游，如果运气好，在它们聚集的地点造凿了洞，也许几分钟就能掉到鱼。如果等一段时间没有鱼，就换了一个地方再凿一个洞。等待中，可以听见冰洞下哗哗的流水声，远处隐约有狼的吼声在回荡。很多时候离你不远处的友人就已经钓到了鱼，而你还在等待。不过终于有鱼上钩的那一刻的喜悦是难以言喻的。导游说萨米人总是很享受自然和战胜自然，除了钓鱼，现在的萨米人也常常乘着雪地车穿着雪地靴进行远足，甚至在整个拉普兰地区进行滑雪和狗拉雪橇的户外活动。
Ice Fishing
On the second day we traveled to a place called Bear Lake. Even though we’re merely a few kilometers to the periphery of the arctic， we are surrounded by acres of pine tree forests with the frozen lake stretching for miles， many of which are good for ice fishing. At dawn， our guide introduced us to a pack of huskies and asked us to keep “talking” to them to help them remain focused. According to him， the lead dog， named Dash， could even scare out and hunt wild rabbits down while pulling sleighs ahead. He shouted out a loud “Hike” and the huskies darted ahead.
Upon arrival， each of us was handed a pair of plastic boot， a bag of food and bait， and an orange drill. We stepped on the ice both excited and anxious， wondering if the ice beneath our feet would crack and we would be swimming in ice-cold water. “Don’t worry. The ice is so thick it can even support the weight of a truck.” Our guide broke silence. But we were doubtful and it seemed to show on our faces. To reassure us， he took out an ice drill and bore a hole into the ice. It took him approximately five minutes， and once he reached the water， we poke our heads through the hole and felt slightly more convinced.The ice layer is about 30-40cm thick. The lake freezes each year from October to March， and pods of salmon and rainbow trout live in this lake all year round. There were already people fishing while drinking vodka. We found ourselves a comfortable spot and proceeded to drill our holes. It took more strength than I’d imagined， but soon enough， I’m ready to drop my line.
We pulled out a less-than-40cm plastic fishing rod， put on the bait， dropped into the hole， and once it reached the bottom of the lake， pulled up 50 cm and locked the pulley. Some say ice-fishing depends on 99% skill and 1% luck. The rainbow trout always swim in one place， if you are lucky enough to drill the hole above them， you will be able to get a catch within munities. Otherwise you may need to change your location. We were soon engulfed by a calm soothing silence， except for the occasional wolf howling echoing in the distance. The guide told us that the Sami has always enjoyed being surrounded by nature. Besides ice-fishing， they also lead excursions on snowmobiles and snowshoes， cross-country skiing and dog sledding.
拉普兰天空的交响乐
拉普兰的夜晚，充满了盼望与奇迹。入夜后，人们可以在极光观测点抬头望天，等待幸运，也可以随车奔驰在雪原，做个极光狩猎者。
出发去Kittila看极光之前，可以先享用一顿萨米族晚餐，晚餐的肉类都是萨米人狩猎的当季动物。晚餐过程中，萨米老人说：我们不饲养驯鹿，是驯鹿在饲养我们。再次说明了萨米人和驯鹿之间深厚的关系。萨米人的原始小木屋房构造及其简单，一个装有饮用水的水罐，几个睡袋，房屋中间有个小小的柴火堆。老人提醒我们脱掉靴子烤火，这样能最快的温暖身体。厕所在屋外的另一个小房间，需要用抽水器抽水。仅仅是这些简单的设施，已经足够满足萨米人远离城市的质朴生活了。
然后在萨米向导兼司机—一位身高体胖的大叔的带领下，驱车向北，一路追光，一直走到芬兰、挪威与俄罗斯3国的交界处。萨米向导会频繁地短暂关闭车灯，寻找每一处应该停车的地方。遇光停车，拍照，叹息，再前行。极光格外眷顾人们，他们整晚在天空长袖善舞、天女散花、随风飘荡。有的极光是桥状的，雪野苍苍中，西湖断桥似的一束光带横在天边。淡淡的绿色，像是舞台上的水袖，它在空中慢慢地移动，舒卷，时长时短，根部细小而清晰，渐渐长大变粗，到了尾部，就如烟霞一样，飘散在星空里。这形状的极光很像彩虹—气贯长虹—这词也适合极光的气势。
行走在茫茫大地上，萨米向导给大家讲拍摄极光时单反相机设定的最佳数值，讲驯鹿的驯养状况，以及一则流传在萨米人中的传说：冬天到了，天上的火狐狸奔跑过北极荒原，尾巴溅起了雪花，他们就幻化为极光！所以，它们也称极光为“狐狸之火”。这样浪漫的想象、无羁的思绪，配得上北极光的灵动与阔大！
Tips
极光出现在9月至次年3月。其中，9月、10月期间，湖水尚未结冰，可以看到极光在湖面上的倒影。
Northern lights can be seen from September to March. In September and October when the lakes are not frozen， you could see northern lights reflections on the lakes.
向导还镇定地告诉大家，前一日太阳有一次剧烈的爆发，一般来说18～24个小时之后，也就是这个时段，地球会迎来极光的高潮……他的话引来小规模惊呼，让极光狩猎者愈发期待。 行车中，忽然一只小小的动物出现在车前部的灯光里，灵活的身体，长长的尾巴，一眨眼窜到路旁的黑暗中去了——“Fox！”——向导介绍说。未来得及压下惊奇，一只驯鹿横过马路，在灯光里成了剪影，鹿角如巨大的树枝一般完美。寻极光的路上，惊喜不断，乐趣多多。而拉普兰的天空，就像露天音乐厅；夜晚的北极光，宛如一首波澜壮阔的交响乐，乐长3小时，作曲、指挥、演奏者均为大自然！
除了冰上垂钓、坐驯鹿雪橇和追寻极光，你还可以在世界一流的滑雪场滑雪，可以租一辆雪地摩托体验北国的速度，还可以尝试传统的芬兰浴：在桑拿之后直接跳入桑拿室外的湖水或雪地掘出的冰水池中，如此这般，反复数遍，直至通体舒泰……
拉普兰的日日夜夜，无不充满精彩与神奇，静待你的到来。
Night Sky Symphony
The nights in Lapland are full of hope and miracle. After dusk， you can either wait at an observation point， or drive in the wild to seek the northern lights.
Before we left for Kittila to watch the northern lights， we had a Sami dinner at an aboriginal wooden hut， where we were served with seasonal hunt. A Sami elderly shared with us their close tie to reindeer， “We do not feed reindeer， the reindeer feeds us”. The hut furnishing is simple but adequate， a water jar， several sleep bags， an open fireplace， and a water ejector equipped toilet outside in a separate hut.
Our guide， a strong and tall Sami， drove us all the way north to the joint Finnish， Norwegian and Russian border area. Every now and then， he would stop the car and turn off the lights so we could step out to take photos. We were lucky to have a whole night of northern lights， some in the shape of bridge， spreading across the sky， some in light green， rolling like a long sleeve and thinning like haze， and some like rainbow， dancing in the sky with its beautiful colors.
Under the vast lighted sky， the guide told us how to configure our cameras， how they head reindeer， and the Sami legend about northern lights. According to local folklore， the lights were caused by a magical fox sweeping its tail across the snow， spraying it up into the sky.
When he told us in calm voice that a sun eruption the day before would supercharge the northern lights 18 to 24 hours later， about the time we were out there， we applauded in excitement. Just then， a small animal appeared in the flashlight. “Fox”， exclaimed the guide. A while later， a reindeer crossed the road again， leaving behind a tree-like shade of its antlers. In the concert hall of the boundless sky， we enjoyed a 3-hour magnificent symphony of northern lights， written， conducted and played by Mother Nature.
Apart from ice fishing， reindeer sledding， and northern lights seeking， you could also try here skiing， snowmobile， or Finnish bath -- jumping between sauna bath and freezing water until you are fully relaxed.
Lapland promises wonder and amazement every day and night， all you need is to hop on a flight.