“糖乡”义乌的糖佳话

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正是义乌制糖季节

冬令时节我们来到“糖蔗之乡”浙江义乌的义亭镇西楼村，远远就闻到一阵阵浓郁的糖香，空气里也仿佛弥漫着甜味。走到村口，见停着一排排小车，原来这是城里的许多上班族利用周末休息的时间，专程来到这里品尝和购买红糖，看来这个村的糖生意做得蛮红火呢!

在西楼村的榨糖车间里，榨糖机昼夜不停地运转着，熬糖的大锅里热气蒸腾，好客的糖农更是慷慨热情地招呼客人免费品尝他们的红糖食品。三位城里姑娘一边品着刚出锅的红糖，一边要主人滚个“糖勾”给她们看看。当众人品尝了香甜味美的糖汁麻花后，便争相购买各种糖食，每人手里全都拎着一袋又一袋糖勾和麻花欢天喜地而去。

贾惟承首创燕里红糖

义乌是个古老的产糖区，早在明朝末年就开始种甘蔗榨糖，至今已有400多年的历史，是浙江最大的产糖县。据义乌《洋川贾氏燕里村谱》记载：其第五代传人贾惟承于顺治年间在燕里村的黄沙、红泥土地上，从福建引进种植糖蔗的技术，制成义乌红糖。它凭着“摆在桌上会爬，放入口中会烊，含到嘴里清香，存放三年不烂”的过硬质量，名声大噪，成了当时市场上的抢手货。到了第十三代传人贾祯淑手里，这位清末秀才更是注重收集和整理糖蔗种植和红糖制作的技巧和“乡土文化”，为提升燕里红糖的社会价值和声誉作出了贡献。1929年在杭州西博会上，义乌一家商会选送的“义乌青”糖荣获了特别奖，这使义乌红糖名声大振，销路大开。据当地老糖农介绍：由于义乌红糖选用“青皮糖梗”为原料，熬榨的红糖色泽略呈青灰色，于是人们就称它为“义乌青”。“义乌青”虽然不像白糖那样洁白，也不如冰糖那样晶莹，却甜得自然，香得纯正，并且有益气养血、健脾暖胃、驱风散寒、活血化瘀的功能，因而深得城乡居民的喜爱，成了人们日常生活中不可缺少的食品和实惠的礼品，成了义乌的“三宝”之一。

从“鸡毛换糖”走向规模经营

义乌过去因人稠地薄，光靠种田吃不饱饭，许多农民平日便远走他乡做“鸡毛换糖”小买卖，每到农闲季节，义乌人就肩挑“货郎担”，手摇“拨浪鼓”，走村串乡，风餐露宿，以红糖换取各家各户的鸡毛和废品。用红糖做成的“派皮糖”是老百姓尤其是小孩最爱吃的零食，故每当义乌人“拨浪鼓”响起，老百姓就会迅速围上来，用自家的鸡毛、鹅毛或废铜烂铁等换糖吃，这就是义乌人往昔的“鸡毛换糖”情景，此后世代相传，形成规模。

改革开放以后，敢为人先的义乌人率先在家门口办起了集贸市场，原先挑“货郎担”的义乌人，有了自己的固定摊位后，生意做得如鱼得水，他们很快完成了原始积累。于是有的开办了小商品加工企业，有的还把小商品生意做到了省外和国外，市场越做越大，一度还成了享誉全球的“华夏第一市”。

义乌小商品市场繁荣，糖业也不错。原先在小商品城做副食品批发生意的陈洪见、陈号玲夫妇，他们承传义乌红糖加工的传统工艺，以科学配方和现代技术制作姜糖、姜汤等休闲食品，由于地方特色浓郁，产品一投入市场就受到消费者青睐。常驻义乌采购小商品的马来西亚客商在宾王市场洪太公司门市部品尝了姜糖和姜汤后，当即就下单订货。

如今，该公司采用现代技术，又对红糖进行深加工，提高了附加值，先后研制开发了洪太姜汤、洪太姜糖、洪太姜片、洪太红糖四大系列100多个品种，使这一传统特产重放异彩，产品不但畅销东北三省、陕西、上海、福建、湖南、新疆等20多个省市自治区，还远销日本、韩国、新加坡、马来西亚、香港等国家和地区。为进一步满足客户的要求，洪太公司还在义乌及周边县市建立了3500亩无公害红糖、生姜生产基地，传统的义乌红糖也和小商品一样，今日已漂洋过海，享誉全球。

弘扬红糖文化做大红糖产业

如今，昔日的“鸡毛换糖”货郎担已被当作见证义乌商业发展的文物而摆在博物馆供人浏览，义乌闹市区还建立了“货郎担”雕塑。为弘扬红糖文化，振兴红糖产业，今年开始，义乌市还把传统的红糖业与旅游业有机地结合在一起，开展以参观榨糖工艺了解“鸡毛换糖”历史以及品尝红糖产品等为内容的农家游，确定每年的11月18日为义乌红糖节，以推进义乌红糖产业的发展壮大，增加糖农收入，进一步弘扬红糖文化，目的是使全国各地客商以及外商都知道，义乌不仅有小商品大市场，也有极具地方特色的红糖农产品。

义乌还在义亭镇西楼村专门建立了榨糖历史陈列馆。一位游客带着自己的孩子看“老牛拖旧机榨糖”的模型时说：“义乌小商品市场有今天的辉煌，就是靠勤劳智慧的义乌人民用‘鸡毛换糖’起步的。今天我带儿子到这里参观，就是想让下一代了解义乌艰苦创业的历史。”一位糖师傅说，这几天来西楼村的客人特别多，比过年还热闹。有一天竟有500多人来吃红糖买红糖，有次城里人还开了十几辆小车组成一个庞大的“购物团”来这里买糖麻花呢!

Bittersweet Memory of the Land of Sugar

By Zhang Jiancheng, Chen Xiguang

The art of brown sugar producing in Yiwu, a traditional farming area in central Zhejiang, dates back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Farmers there began to make brown sugar from cane in the last years of the Ming Dynasty. Today, the county is still the largest sugar producer in the province.

All this began with Jia Weicheng, a farmer who lived more than 400 years ago in Yanli village. Jia introduced the sugar cane cultivation technology from Fujian Province to the sandy red soil field in his village and made brown sugar out of them. The sugar soon became popular with local residents and sold like hot cakes on market. In the last years of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), his great great grandson Jia Zhenshu improved cane planting and sugar making techniques and made the specialty more popular. In 1929, a chamber of commerce from Yiwu displayed brown sugar at the first West Lake Expo in Hangzhou and won a special prize. It became a popular food and holiday gift among local residents.

Brown sugar became popular outside Yiwu when vendors from Yiwu visited every corner of the province. As Yiwu was a populous area with insufficient farming land, people there in the past had to find ways to make ends meet. One of the ways was to barter chicken feather and scraps with brown sugar and candy made of it in slack season. For a long while in the province, the rattle-drum was a hallmark of vendors from Yiwu.

When the reform and opening-up policies were enforced in the late 1970s, the wandering vendor tradition evolved into prosperous markets in Yiwu. Today, the marketplace in Yiwu has become the largest of its kind in China. The brown sugar production has been industrialized.

Chen Hongjian and Chen Haoling, a couple who once did wholesale business in a food market in Yiwu, founded Hongtai Company and now do flourishing brown sugar business.

Their first product was ginger candies and ginger decoction. Now the company markets more than 100 products in 4 product lines in more than 20 provinces and municipalities across China and in countries and regions such as Japan, Korea, Singapore, Hong Kong and Malaysia. The company also runs large sugar cane and ginger farms in Yiwu and neighboring counties to provide raw materials.

Today, the brown sugar vendor's traveling utensils are on display in a local museum on the business history. The downtown Yiwu also conspicuously features a statue of a traveling vendor.The local government has designated November 18 as the Day of Brown Sugar in Yiwu. Travel operators in the city have developed tours to promote the local brown sugar industry.

Brown sugar food is still made manually in rural Yiwu. The winter is the peak season for villagers to make brown-sugared fried dough twists, and display their workshops and products to tourists from urban areas. Xilou village in Yiwu is just such a great attraction. A brown-sugar craftsman told us with pride: “one day, nearly 500 tourists came to our village and bought our brown sugar!”And just another day, villagers were amazed to see more than 10 cars come to the village. It turned out that the visitors were all nostalgic of the brown-sugar and drove a long way just to buy the fried dough twists.

(Translated by David)