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A former Portuguese enclave, the Union Territory of Diu, about 12 km long and 3 km wide, still retains a relaxed, laidback charm despite its growing popularity as a holiday destination. In winter, Diu is excellent for relaxing on the beaches, idling at little eateries, cycling around the island, strolling along cliffs or watching birdlife in the Diu Bird Sanctuary.

Arrive at Diu Airport and get a local taxi to drop you at the Nagoa Beach, which is a crescent shaped stretch of smooth sands around a calm winter sea. This lovely palm-lined beach has eateries, food and drink stalls, and recreational facilities. The beach is excellent in winter for strolls, wading or a swim. You could also try jet-skiing, surf boarding and other water-based activities, while children can take camel or pony rides. If you want to stay near the beach, there are four to five different places to stay at Nagoa. The seafish and prawns are particularly fresh in winter.

Idyllic Nagoa can get very busy during weekends and holidays. To escape the crowd, you can get away to Gomtimata— this is a long stretch of beach, usually deserted, but not too safe for swimming, just a few minutes drive from Nagoa. At the end of the road, watch the fishing fleet at Vanakbara, where you could watch boats being built.

From Nagoa, travel along the southern coast of the island on a road passing cliffs and rock pools. Chakratirth Beach, overlooked by a high mound, is one of Diu’s the most attractive beaches and it’s usually deserted, good for an undisturbed swim on a calm winter day. Climb the mound called Sunset Point in the evening for a view of the golden disc sinking into the Arabian Sea.

A short distance from Chakratirth is an idyllic stretch of sand which comprises the Jallandhar Beach. There are some pleasant places to stay near here. Between Nagoa and Jallandhar, Fudam is an attractive village of Portuguese houses, in the classic pale yellow and sky-grey colours, where the imposing St Francis of Assisi Church has been converted into a medical clinic. Fudam has some of Diu’s most upmarket accommodations. If you are looking for a break from the beaches, take a stroll along the Malala cliffs near Fudam. For nature lovers, the marshes of northern Diu island can offer good bird viewing— flocks of flamingos, storks, herons and waders are usually seen in winter.

Uou must spare time to visit the Diu Town. Enter through the ornate gateways leading into the old town and you will see distinctive mansions in an Indo- Portuguese style the Nagar Seth’s Haveli is specially flamboyant, with ornate lions and fine stonework. The town has a treasure trove of Portuguese architecture—St Paul’s Church is an imposing church, built in the 1600s, with a fine facade. The barn-like interiors have high ceilings and painted arches, where Portuguese Mass is still celebrated. The 17th century Sao Tome Church is now a museum—see the superb wooden sculptures and antiques on display.

The architectural masterpiece of Diu is its huge battlemented 16th- century fort. Its wide moat and coastal position enabled the fort to withhold attack by land and sea. The ramparts command excellent views out to sea and over the island. You can see the ship-shaped Panikotha Fort from here.

Crossing from the island to the mainland, Diu’s Ghoghla Beach just after the bridge is a fine place for a long walk. The sands are firm and smooth, swimming is usually safe, and the view over the sea to the island is spectacular. And if you are really lucky, then you will find dolphins here. But keep your camera handy anyway—picture-perfect moments in Diu are never few and far between.