设计渗透思想
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“王菲曾拍过一部日剧《弄假成真》，在里面她饰演一个时装设计师。
我便受电视剧的感染突发其想想成为一个设计师，于是就真的做了。
现在想想这个决定仍心有余悸。”
“Wang Fei acted in a Japanese drama， called Making the Unreal Real， in which she played a fashion designer. I liked the drama so much that I dreamed of becoming a designer. I did it but when I looked back， it was rather scary.”
他是87年出生的狮子座大男孩，用他自己的话说“我的故事就是很普通的闽南农村家庭小孩的无聊故事而已。”因为一部电视剧，他有了做一名时装设计师的冲动，并且带着这份冲动真正成为了一名著名的设计师。他叫叶谦，在众多的新锐设计师当中，年纪轻轻的他已经颇具名气，近两年更是名声大噪，很多明星都穿过他设计的服装，并与欧莱雅集团、美宝莲品牌、Intel集团、中国电影导演协会等进行跨界合作。
与叶谦电话中约采访的时候，就听出来他是典型的闽南人。在时尚圈待久了居然没有丝毫地“耍大牌”，也没有标榜自己有多忙，有的就是温柔、亲切和诚恳。整个采访过程中，叶谦的温和、耐心、敬业都给本刊留下很深的印象。让人不禁感叹，他的成功真的不是偶然的事。
叶谦出生于福建省泉州市，大学考入天津美术学院学习服装设计。当初在天津上学时，他突然觉得无聊，便毅然休学到上海打工。在上海的运气不错，他碰巧参加了东方卫视某服装设计真人秀节目并脱颖而出。当时正值被众人捧在手心宠爱的他却又决定放弃一切浮华外衣来北京进修，只为充实自己，追求自己的梦想。如今他已经创办了自己的工作室，拥有了自己的独立设计师品牌。他年轻却有自己的主张，不会轻易失去方向，加上他坦率的处事态度，在如今浮华的时尚圈独树一帜。
“其实当时美院去福建招生，因为我文化分很低，填报志愿的时候，看到国画、油画、环境设计都是大热门，超级多人报名，心里就很紧张。后来翻到服装设计，才两三个，就选择了这个竞争相对小的系别。当时就觉得自己的水准能考上大学就OK了，至于什么专业都是其次，因为是他们挑我，不是我挑他们，当时就是那样的一个心态去报的服装设计。后来休学的原因是太无聊了，我觉得天天都在消耗自己的精力，其实却学不到什么东西。毕业秀也是自娱自乐，有点像小丑似的。当时在上海参加真人秀是我第一个服装设计相关的比赛，没想到就成功了。”叶谦很直白地向本刊讲述着。
独特、另类是叶谦的代名词。他的最新设计也是他第六个完整系列，名为“商女”，灵感来源于中国沿海地区的在商女性。听起来现代，但描绘的是上世纪80年代女性的形象，所以仍然充满了复古意味。当然你也可以将之视作乡镇女企业家的时装版，反正时尚30年一轮回，曾经被认为老气的套装也可以成为当下时髦的象征。其中带有“monday”，“busy！”等字母或图形，以及一系列金色手工造头饰诙谐幽默地传达出“商女很忙”，“多忙多金”的俏皮概念，很有意思。
叶谦有两个自己的独立设计师品牌，主线品牌是YE'S，副线品牌ye's？yes！名字起得很特别。“先锋的态度和年轻的表达分别是两者的特征。我的设计理念就是让穿上YE'S的人可以发现不同以往的自己。”叶谦说，“创意始终会是我唯一有利的竞争手段。包括在面料材质搭配、剪裁和品牌理念上。”叶谦的设计隐藏一份智慧，他中意插画与手绘，其设计都是手绘本，每一张都流露出浓浓的艺术感，好看之余还能感受到他将一种思想渗透进去，以此记录着其所思所想所感。时装对于叶谦意味着一种表达自己思想和观点的直接手段，正是这种自我思想和观点的表达，造就了叶谦区别于他人的独立风格。
对于服装的时尚度，叶谦有着自己的一套理解，“我认为时尚必须是令人舒服的，舒服来自视觉和穿着。”男士服装叶谦目前很少问津，不过他说今年会和一个现代中式的男装品牌合作，“最初的出发点是我自己觉得我的衣橱始终没有一套像样的中式西服，我想设计一款男性都能穿着的正式中式西服，中国人的西服市场居然很少有中式感的，这有点讽刺。”
“我的所有设计最大的灵感来源于社会每天发生的一些事，有朋友笑称我是中国第一个也是唯一一个看《新闻联播》就能找到灵感设计的服装设计师。”这样的灵感来源或许让很多人都为此大跌眼镜，但叶谦的服装里透着质疑、调侃、戏谑的调调，相较于面料、裁剪、廓型等技术活，他更关心的是时装背后的概念与想法，“有没有想法事关天赋，是最本质的问题，而美不美、精不精则是可以后天锻炼或者借由它人补强的。”他用自己的独立思考，去努力揭示一种思想，这让他的设计有了一种真正独特与另类的基调。
Ye Qian， emerging fashion designer
The big boy was born in 1987， to the sign of Leo. “My story is rather dull， that of an ordinary rural boy from south Fujian.” He dreamed of becoming a fashion designer after watching a TV drama and had his dream realized， big way. He is Ye Qian， already quite famous among emerging designers. Many stars wear him and he works with L’Oreal， Mary Kay， Intel and China Directors Association.
We knew he was from Fujian when we set up an interview with him on the phone. He is very modest， didn’t say how busy he was. He was just nice， gentle and sincere. We were deeply impressed with his patience， professionalism and gentle manners. It is definitely not by chance that he has today’s fame.
Ye Qian was born in Quanzhou of Fujian and went to the fashion design department at Tianjin Academy of Fine Arts. He was so bored that he quitted his study， going to Shanghai instead. He was lucky in the city. He participated in a talent show program hosted by Oriental TV. He became the darling of the fashion business but he chose to go to Beijing for studies. Today he has his own studio and labels. He is young but knows what he is doing. He is such an honest person， which sets him apart in the vanity fair.
“Tianjin Academy of Fine Arts recruited students in Fujian. I wasn’t doing well academically. It was highly competitive to be admitted to Chinese painting， oil painting， and design majors. I was nervous and noticed that not many people applied to the fashion design department. I opted for it for lower competition. I’d be happy with going to college， no matter what to study. I wasn’t picky at all. I dropped out because I was so bored. I didn’t learn anything， wasting all the time. The graduation show was like clowns making fun of ourselves. I participated in the Shanghai talent show； that was the first design-related competition I ever participated. I never expected the success ”Yu Qin told him story in a very matter-of-fact way.
Being different and unique is Yu Qin’s hallmark. His latest collection is a six-series creation titled “women in business”； the inspiration comes from business women from the coastal regions. Yu Qin uses “Monday”， “Busy” letters and shapes， and a series of golden handmade head accessories to convey a cute idea of “busy business women” and “busy and rich” ideas.
Today Yu Qian has two labels. The main line is YE’S and the secondary line ye’s？ yes！ The labels are very interesting. “I am trying to suggest an avant-garde attitude and a youthful expression. I hope people wearing YE’S can discover a different self in them，” said he. “My only competitiveness is creative， with fabric， matching， cutting and brand.” He hides a lot of smart ideas in his design. He likes hand illustrations. He designs by hand paintings， extremely artistic and thoughtful. Fashion is a statement to Yu Qian， and this strong awareness sets him apart from others.
Yu Qian has his own understanding about the trendiness of fashion. “Fashion has to be comfortable， visually and sensually.” Yu Qian doesn’t do men’s wear at the moment， but he plans to work with a modern Chinese style men’s wear brand this year. “What drives me is that I feel I don’t have a decent Chinese suit in my wardrobe. I’m thinking of designing a formal Chinese suit for every man. There are no Chinese suits in the market， which is rather ironic.”
“My biggest inspiration comes from everyday life. Friends joked that I am the only designer in China who gets ideas from the 7pm CCTV news.” This is indeed beyond the understanding of most people. Ye Qian has a rather challenging， mocking and teasing style in his designs. He cares more about the ideas beyond what people wear， rather than fabric， cutting and shape techniques. “Do you have ideas？ That’s an important talent. It is essential. Of course you can always improve and make perfect by hard work， with the assistance of others.” Yu Qian tries to use his independent thinking to come up with unique expression and statements.